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Buddy Tennison (Buddyten)
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Username: Buddyten

Post Number: 95
Registered: 7-2005
Posted From: 207.68.234.50

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Posted on Monday, January 17, 2011 - 1:51 pm:   

Hey Guys: Just for my info, what is the process for changing over from the big alternator to a smaller one on an Eagle? First, what is the benefit of changing over? Secondly, is it an expensive process and what is involved? What kind of special bracket manufacture, etc is involved? There is an empty pulley on the camshaft on my 8V71 but am assuming that some type of special bracket is involved here. Also, I am assuming that the voltage regulator has to be changed out as well. Some detailed info would be most appreciated. I know some of you have made the changeover.
Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
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Username: Jack_fids

Post Number: 360
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 69.171.161.174


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 2:18 am:   

TowelBoy has been fussin over the same conundrum & would appreciate the whole story as well.
(he's just to bashful to ax himself)
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1427
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 69.19.14.17


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 6:40 am:   

IF you do not use the bus alt with a big inverter to run the air cond on the road ,
and you don't boondock with thousands of pounds lead to be recharged , a small 130A truck unit will fdo fine.

These are found in the truck supply places for about a buck an amp.

FF
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Username: Luvrbus

Post Number: 1008
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.33.43.204

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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 9:07 am:   

Buddy, it will require some pulley changes on the alternator to drive off the camshaft you are talking about that drive turns the same as engine rpms,Your 50D alternator spins at 2:93 to 1 to make 300 amps off the pillar block fwiw plus if you still have factory air and heat in your Eagle the small alternators won't keep up with the demand

good luck

(Message edited by luvrbus on January 18, 2011)

(Message edited by luvrbus on January 18, 2011)
Jack Campbell (Blue_goose)
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Username: Blue_goose

Post Number: 149
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 71.101.163.242


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 9:15 am:   

If it isn't broke don't try to fix it. When you have problems with the big alternator that will be the time to put a small one on.
Jack
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
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Username: Ralph7

Post Number: 169
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 75.223.57.13

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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 9:28 am:   

I have a 12V./60A. AND a 24V./50A. mounted close to each other, both are 10SI one wire units (60's-70's GM). Mounts are easy to make, just use heavy steel. I taped and secured the wires that went to the old alt. Remember only one wire, used #10 size, if you use the 130A. big truck Alt. use #2 wire and those alt's come solid OR pivot mount, also are much larger in size. My alt's cost $60.00 12V & $99.00 24V. just use the www. to find. Mine are driven off the old AC groves on crank useing 1/2 and 5/8 wide belts, yes those groves are 3/4 but no burned belts yet. How ever there is little or no charge at low rpm. NOW I do not drive at nite, running /park lights are LED,(all lights on house 12v batterys), 24v. used for starter, engine monitor system(dash guages,warning devises). So far 15 months an 10,000 miles and it is ok. If it were easy I would use the 130A/ 12V alt. But you need 2 belts and on most trucks alt's were driven off a pully out the blower drive,and were mounted on top of the blower drive. Sorry but 130A./12V. one wire alt. are $180.00- 210.00 and normally no pully that' s extra. BUT this setup my on a TMC/ MCI, 8-71.
Cory hart (Chart1)
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Username: Chart1

Post Number: 48
Registered: 1-2010
Posted From: 166.137.140.81


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 10:12 am:   

As I am running the same on my tmc 8 but the bigger alternators. I do run with lights on. Headlights and interior lights all on 12v everything else 24v. 8 years no problem
Dal Farnworth (Dallas)
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Username: Dallas

Post Number: 294
Registered: 7-2004
Posted From: 98.20.57.250


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 10:34 am:   

Just wait until the alternator seizes a bearing some time. The steel drive gear is the first thing to go, then the cam gears. Then everything falls into the grinder at the bottom of the engine, and Waa-Laa.... time for a major overhaul!

With a pulley drive, the alternator locks up and the belts burn off, no problem, an easy fix.
Dave Walker (Chrome_dome)
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Username: Chrome_dome

Post Number: 175
Registered: 3-2010
Posted From: 67.174.144.159


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Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 9:56 pm:   

Well thats something that make me feel better. Thats what we have, just a belt.

Dave
Donald P H (Eagle19952)
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Username: Eagle19952

Post Number: 48
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 98.238.118.43

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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 12:01 am:   

With a pulley drive, the alternator locks up and the belts burn off, no problem, an easy fix.

Better Deal. fixable,don't ask me how I know :-)
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
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Username: Ralph7

Post Number: 175
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 75.214.248.17

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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 1:00 am:   

OK, on trucks an was my engine, the alt. that is mounted on the blower drive, is driven by belts. My blower drive now runs the power steering pump, also some trucks did use the pully on the cam oppsite the water pump. OH after my bus engine was removed I checked the old original 24V./270A. belt drive and the bearings were gone, So busnuts remove those 4 belts and carefully check the bearings.
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1429
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.82.162.10


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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 6:52 am:   

Since the bus runs might be short between boondock sites I would install any house alternator with a "boat" 3 or 4 stage Volt regulator.

The brain (volt regulator)in a one wire is not useful for house battery charging , unless you run 8-10 hours at highway speeds.

FF
Tom Hamrick (Tomhamrick)
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Username: Tomhamrick

Post Number: 77
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 167.83.101.23

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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 1:35 pm:   

The problem with waiting until it burns the belts off is the belts can knock the oil return line off and make a big mess on your wife's car following you!!!! That was a mess. I don't know what replacement cost are today but then it was $800. I replaced mine with a 160 Leece/Neville years ago and have been very pleased. I have a 1984 Eagle and will be glad to email you pictures of what we did if you can provide an email address.
Dal Farnworth (Dallas)
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Username: Dallas

Post Number: 300
Registered: 7-2004
Posted From: 98.20.57.250


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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 2:37 pm:   

Tom, email addresses are in the profiles.... click on his name.
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
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Username: Ralph7

Post Number: 177
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 75.214.225.6

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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 8:55 pm:   

I went down to Huston and looked at Jim Sanders Flex, it has a 6v-92 automatic AND a 100+ amp alt. driven off that cam pully, did not take my camera. The alt faces the engine, and the mount is off the shelf, not home built. That bracket would fit an Eagle setup BUT not do on a MCI/TMC cause of the (A) engine mount, and the rear of the alt. my not have clearence to close the right rear (back) door. I was trying to build a bracket to mount an alt. like his is. if you like call me # is in profile
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Username: Luvrbus

Post Number: 1011
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.33.43.204

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Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 9:55 pm:   

Guys you have to get the rpm right you have 170 amp alternator that requires 6000 rpm spinning at 3000 rpm you are not going to have 170 amps at 3000 rpms.
The 50D has to turn 6000 rpms to output 300 amps at 12 volts it may work for you but you do need the rpms to get the full capacity of the alternator.


good luck
Tom Hamrick (Tomhamrick)
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Username: Tomhamrick

Post Number: 78
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 167.83.101.23

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Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 8:05 am:   

Hi Clifford, I am using the same size pully on the 160 alternator that was on the 50D and it is driven from the same pully. So the RPMs should be okay? At least they should be the same. Thanks,
Tom Hamrick
Tom Hamrick (Tomhamrick)
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Username: Tomhamrick

Post Number: 79
Registered: 12-2000
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Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 8:06 am:   

Thanks Dallas. I will get the pictures taken and sent.
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Username: Luvrbus

Post Number: 1013
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.33.43.204

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Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 9:38 am:   

Tom, I was mostly trying to tell these guys like friends of mine that install 2 1 wire alt from Auto Zone that come from a auto and they use the same pulley as for a car then they wonder why the headlights are dim
Tom Christman (Tchristman)
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Username: Tchristman

Post Number: 278
Registered: 1-2006
Posted From: 66.218.33.156

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Posted on Friday, January 21, 2011 - 9:49 am:   

The hot setup is to have a 160amp brushless alternator with a built in regulator-commonly called a one wire alternator with remote voltage sense. The remote voltage sense is a single wire to the positive of the battery that takes a more accurate voltage reading straight from the battery instead of from the alternator with all the resistance of several feet of cable. These are available at most heavy duty truck dealers and parts stores. Made mostly by Delco-Remy and Leece-Neville. Good Luck, TomC
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
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Username: Pvcces

Post Number: 1348
Registered: 5-2001
Posted From: 70.101.197.226

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Posted on Friday, January 21, 2011 - 12:24 pm:   

Tom, what kind of temperature compensation do these have?

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1240
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 173.202.28.206


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Posted on Friday, January 21, 2011 - 7:27 pm:   

I got a rebuilt 100amp Leece-Neville truck alt for my 4104 that cost $150 with no core charge. It came from an alternator shop in west OKC but I don't remember the name.

It is one wire and requires minimum rpm to excite the field, it is a great setup.

I don't know if they are made in higher amps but 100 amps is just enough for a very simple 4104 four battery setup with no inverters or cart battery banks.
George Martinez (Foohorse)
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Username: Foohorse

Post Number: 298
Registered: 1-2010
Posted From: 70.149.50.69


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Posted on Friday, January 21, 2011 - 7:48 pm:   

is the plastic/fibre gear for the 50D still available? I am going for the thousands of pounds of lead and a large inverter to run all the a/c I can get so 300 amps sounds good to me.
Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
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Username: Jack_fids

Post Number: 370
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 69.171.161.126


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Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 8:27 pm:   

I talked to my guy Fernando @ the rebuild shop today....
30 years in the Alt rebuild biz....
he said he has seen plenty of our big blue Alternators go south, and he has heard the stories of the rebuilds needed on the 8-71 after a failure.
FWIW
He is going to start on my replacement later in the week!
George Martinez (Foohorse)
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Username: Foohorse

Post Number: 310
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Posted on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 - 8:53 pm:   

BESTEST DEAREST friend Fidds. don't forget your true blue BUD. Hey I want to invite you to dinner at Dall's get together. I hear Marvin is a great cook and he's got a dish that's to die for.
Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
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Username: Jack_fids

Post Number: 383
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 69.171.161.209


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Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 1:11 pm:   

TowelBoys who try to be cute
matriculate on to more fashionable endeavors
usually...
when are you LEAVING ?
(you know that there COULD be a mistake in the electrical service running to your future DITCH....
one wire to the Bus
and the other to the water that's slowly filling it....)

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