| Author | Message | ||
| MC - Iv (24.83.235.106) Rating: N/A |
After insulating has anyone re-used the aluminum headliner panels which are stock on an MC-9? Maybe cover them with vinyl headlining or carpet and then screw them back in place. Would they be as strong or as practical as plywood for attaching cabinets etc? Just curious. Iv. | ||
| two dogs (66.90.217.84) Rating: N/A |
I think so...it's all 'opinion'....they won't catch on fire like plywood...I'm useing my orig. roof panels and 'might' carpet the ceiling | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.129.167.12)
Rating: N/A |
If you have gone to the trouble and expense of foaming the bus, putting back the original aluminum panels will negate most of the value of the insulation. Cold or heat will transfer through the ribs and be conducted to a wide area of the interior through the aluminum. Probably better off with plywood in that respect. Neither plywood nor the original aluminum is suitable for hanging cabinets or microwaves. Try to design the overhead cabinet depths so the front is lined up with the original fore/aft rib that the luggage rack was anchored to. If you don't, you will only pick up a solid mounting point every 4 feet or so. The aluminum panels however, do make a good base for covering with vinyl or carpet. If you are going to use them, for the best insulating value, use a foam tape as original and install them with countersunk pop rivets (autobody ones) and then put on the finish for a smooth uninterupted ceiling. Using carpet or vinyl with foam, the small gaps at the seams between panels should disappear. Jim | ||
| Craig Craddock (24.127.66.163)
Rating: N/A |
I have a friend with a GM that spray foamed between the ribs, than reinstall the original headlinner a masonite like material of which he painted. He also used the original metal strips on the ribs to retain the ceiling. I am not sure if he put any barrier material between the inside metal and the metal ribs. In cold weather the condensation is so bad he walks around with a towel wiping the water off of the metal strips. I have seen it almost like a rain. If this were to happen behind carpet, vinyl or etc. this could set you up for a mold problem. Just something to think about. | ||
| two dogs (66.90.217.108) Rating: N/A |
WOW...THAT'S A THOUGHT...what kind of heat did he have in the bus..open flame?..usually,central heating system"dehumidifys"the air pretty good..but,....sure would like to know what kind of heat he had...don't need any rain in the bus... | ||
| Craig Craddock (24.127.66.163)
Rating: N/A |
Surburban regular RV type forced air type. Where I have seen this problem the outside air temp has been from about 28 to 50 degrees F. Estimated humidity estimated 60% and above. I have seen this as he warms up the bus after the heating has been off all night. I think it improves as the interior heats up some, but you can still see a light coating of moisture on most of the metal holding the ceiling up. The word rain may be a little strong but I have seen many drops fall. | ||
| Larry (208.18.102.9) Rating: N/A |
"I have seen many drops" would that be just a little drizzle, or just overcast with light drizzle? Towel or umbrella, doesn't sound good in any case. | ||
| MC - Iv (24.83.235.106) Rating: N/A |
Yeah, I was wondering about the condensation problem as well. Although, the bus didn't have any moisture problems with the original panels and fiberglass insulation. However, probably not worth taking any chances. I guess I'll use wood like most of the others I have seen. Thanks for the input. Iv. | ||
| Doug Dickinson (Dougd470) (24.207.251.176)
Rating: N/A |
I vote for getting rid of the aluminum interior for the reasons mentioned. If you are going to the expense and trouble of foam, you should consider furring strips and then an interior finish like wood or one of the masonite or other finishes - or carpet - whatever. The furring strips keep the condensation to a minimum from the moisture since you have then established an insulation barrier from the inside to the outside. As for fastening things to the ceiling - you will need furring strips anyway. The aluminim won't support much and plywood - while a little better DEPENDING on size, depth, curve, etc, still needs something behind it to fasten the plywoor to and to keep it from moving when you go down the road. When planning on ann interior, you should also consider "hard points" for attachments to the ceiling. In a coach with a curcved ceiling, you will be using a lot of furring strips in the ceiling just to make the curve and the attachment points. I am planning on a 1X2 every 4 inches on the curve and every 5 inches on the walls. Lots of wood, but it will have the ability to attach anything to it! Doug St Louis MC9 | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)
Rating: N/A |
Due to severe $budget$ restraints, we plan on reusing the factory aluminum ceiling panels on our '74 Crown 10-wheeler. Probably will wall paper them when they are out doing the planned two layers of E-Z White closed cell fire proof insulation. Gots the textured light blue wall paper at a garage sale for $cheap$. If fact, the whole conversion is coming together... ...using fun and inexpensive solutions to big problems. Now....if only I can $afford$ the young, attractive, blue eyed, blond haired, female.....  | ||
| Peter E (Sdibaja) (67.115.8.45)
Rating: N/A |
Henry, save more of your money... don't buy the Blonde, rent her! | ||
| two dogs (66.90.213.92) Rating: N/A |
if you have moisture problems & just cover it up with wood...don't see where that helps...wood will rot..eventually.....I vote for NOT turning the heat off at night...hey Henry...still rolling barrels full of water off the roof? also..they are all "rented"... | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.187)
Rating: N/A |
Use cork tape on the frame members as did the manufacturer of Crowns. Cheap and helps relieve abrasion and squeaks as well. It is a moisture barrier. I have used it throughout, wherever metal touches wood or other substrate. RCB '64 Crown HWC | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.166.27.193)
Rating: N/A |
To reduce or even eliminate the condensation problem, open a roof vent about 1" and set the defroster to allow outside (fresh) air in. The air will come in the defroster, go up along the windshield where much of the moisture will condense, and then go out the roof vent taking much of the moisture with it. Even in really cold weather this air flow will keep the bus dry and not make the heat run forever. Worked for me on my MCI. Prevost, however, doesn't run the fresh air through the defrost, but rather into the interior defroster intake. Won't keep the windshield clear, but still provides a dry air intake. Jim | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)
Rating: N/A |
Hey, good idea about renting instead of buying. I like the return policy. Also a good idea about replacing the cork gasket stuff with the same with replacing the ceiling panels. Sorry to say the suicide grape juice concentrate barrel had to be purchased. Have not had a chance to test the... ...Half full barrel yet because of autumn weather here in SW Oregon. Raining today with a brisk cold SW wind. Still holding out for the translucent white colored barrels. The hari-cari barrel is blue. Still has not leaked. CROWNS FOREVER!! | ||
| two dogs (66.90.211.109) Rating: N/A |
welp...the white barrels usually have soap in them (?) check the local car wash or truck wash..fine for black and gray water...my freshwater tank is blue & was purchased by a friend for drinking water during the Y-2 scare...the world did not come to an end..so he gave it to me..just my opinion Henry...I think your tests prove how tough they are & you need to install them...no need for half full test.."renting" is fine...just don't tell them where you live..there is where you get in trouble |