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Cory hart (Chart1)
Registered Member Username: Chart1
Post Number: 51 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 66.249.37.60
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 1:20 am: | |
I have a leak in my tank after 3/4 of the way full. Has anyone removed a fuel tank with aux on an MCI8. I cant find anything in the manual I have for removing it. Is there 2 tanks, if so do they come out together. I know how to remove the panel but not sure after that. |
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad
Post Number: 1380 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.3.72.124
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 8:51 am: | |
There is a plate attached to the bottom of each fuel tank. there are 3 or 4 (I forget which) copper lines that are approx 1 1/4" diameter conneting the 2 tanks. All of this is accessible by removing a panel on the bottom of the coach under the front bay. Also breather hoses on the top of both tanks. Which tank is leaking, the main or AUX.? When we purchased our MC-8, it had a fuel leak. Turned out to be a small hose that connected one of the 1 1/4" copper tubes to the plate on the bottom of the tank. It still required completely draining the tank to repair. Jack |
Cory hart (Chart1)
Registered Member Username: Chart1
Post Number: 52 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 166.137.137.244
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 11:02 am: | |
It is the main tank leaking. It only leaks after it is about 3/4 full. How do you get to the top vent hose to remove it. |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior
Post Number: 1976 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.91.143.99
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 3:04 pm: | |
The fuel tank is a really snug fit in that compartment. You need to consider the ability to use machinery to yank the tank out when positioning the coach. In replacing the hardboard liner in the bottom of the compartment, you must be faithful to not go any thicker, AT ALL! If the coach will have to be moved, you will need to fabricate some temporary fuel lines to run it out of a 5 gallon fuel can. Close the fuel line valve at the engine to make re-priming easier. You will want to have the coach leaning down on the curb side to facilitate maximum fuel drain. Run up blocks on road side will help. Tank drain is in the end of the tank facing you, with the panel off. Arrange sufficient supply of catching containers and get two barrels from your local supplier, funnels etc, for transferring your precious supply of fuel. Be mindful that the earlier stages has the weight of the fuel heaviest behind it for pressure and splashing. And, once the plug is out, you are committed! There is one strap on top holding the tank, remove bolts on both ends. Get the fuel line connections on the top up out of harm's way. Catching them while inflicting the removal violence will ruin your day further... Remove all aux fuel tank connection hardware from bottom of tank from under the coach. The bottom must be completely cleared off, or it won't come out. But... the coach was positioned for maximum fuel drain,and now you need it positioned for safe crawling and working underneath... best to be doing some big thinking about the space you have to work with and how you will be crafty... Similarly, check all the venting attachments at the top to be sure they will not hang up as the tank is pulled free. The aux tank connection points on the tank bottom still stick down and will catch the edge of the hole, the edge that you get to see AFTER the tank is out... You need a thin lift to drive in under the tank via the removed side panel so that the sticking down plate will ride up out of the hole. A piece of plywood, 1/4 or 3/8 thick, 6-8 inches wide and 2 feet long or so and driven in under the tank will help lever the low points over the edge. Do a lot of prying and goofing to be sure you are not bound up, and yank the tank out. I used a chain and a vehicle to assist... Did I mention to be religious in duplicating the thinness of the hardboard liner in the bottom of the compartment? It most often needs replacing due to rot/moisture/age. Use the bits and pieces as a pattern for the new one. I took my tank to a pro who sandblasted, pressure tested and welded up the thin places. The welder MUST BE TOLD that the tank can't come back any bigger in dimensions than it arrived, or it won't go back in the compartment. Just slapping a patch on the bottom is a game-ender, it won't go back in. Treat the freshly repaired tank to a healthy paint job of the corrosion inhibitor coating of your choosing. Of course, before doing any of this, spend a good bit of time meticulously checking all the possible connection leak points. You'd really prefer not to remove the tank if it not required... happy coaching! buswarrior |
Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow
Post Number: 141 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 98.232.202.3
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 6:25 pm: | |
Sounds like a pita! |
Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039
Post Number: 583 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.13.120
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 8:02 pm: | |
Wow Buswarrior. That is a REALLY detailed description. The kind that would be written by a guy who had learned all of those points the hard way! |
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7
Post Number: 182 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.223.121.27
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 11:21 pm: | |
Had the tank out of my mci-7 several times, same spot, the weld was bad. Thankfull it was a 144gallon system, cause I did not have ramps at the time. The 144 tank requires lifting, cause the plate covering the holes in the bottom of the tank that feed the 35 gallon tank stick down. If you have a 179 system then once the lower pipe/pipes are removed it may come out easy. I will add to BW's clean out the cavity and address the area that caused the leak IF the tank rubbed the sidewall. IF there are any holes in the sidewalls they must be filled, dents pushed out, etc. |
Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
Registered Member Username: Vivianellie
Post Number: 505 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 66.87.0.143
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 2:29 am: | |
Hey, my good friend Ralph - How many tanks do these things have? Until I read these posts thought it was just one big tank? On a personal note, where the heck are you? Sent an email but it bounced back... We think of you all the time and hope you're doing swell! Nellie |
Bob Glines (Robertglines1)
Registered Member Username: Robertglines1
Post Number: 6 Registered: 11-2010 Posted From: 75.207.54.181
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 4:06 pm: | |
Make sure it is leaking from a hole first. once door is removed ck around plate for fuel gauge it will be about the 3/4 level. Had mine out and repaired for some reason a pebble had got in and rubbed a hole over time. On my mci 8 bob |