| Author |
Message |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.234)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2003 - 9:35 pm: | |
I picked the wrong part of the year to get started with a conversion, but once you get the bus fever...
The question is, is there such a thing as a heater that doesn't depend on more electricity than a 12 battery thru a 750w inverter will supply? That is safe to use inside the bus unvented? Propane, butane, kerotane...? I don't know nuthin about no 'tanes... This will not be for installation in the bus, just for work heat for interior work. Portable, throwaway project use only, not the final bus system. When it comes time for the real system, that's one area where I will definitely need a pro to get involved.
Or some kind of unit with a vent pipe out a window? I don't even know where to start to look.
Thank you as always,
Chuck
PS: Different subject - the coach has a block heater w/120vac plug. Does anyone know what kind of current those draw? I know. I need an ammeter. |
Chris Christensen (64.113.214.102)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 2:54 am: | |
Hi Chuck,
As far as the engine block heater, I have a 1500W unit in my 8V71. It pulls about 12.5A.
My understanding is the block heaters come in different wattages, but that should give you an estimate depending on the wattage of your unit.
Chris Christensen
1974 GMC 4905
Eagle, Idaho |
jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 6:56 am: | |
buy 1 of the ceramic heaters that fit on top of a 5 gallon propane bottle.... harbor freight...lowes... home depot..... works good... safe....but needs an open window somewhere in the bus.... |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.210.107.240)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 8:17 am: | |
If you are working with no insulation for a while, the unvented propane heater will cause a great deal of condensation on the roof sheet metal and ribs. This will then drip down to the floor where it will freeze, since heat rises. Really way too slippery to work on. Been there done that. And I'm talking about 1/4" of ice on the floor in just a couple of days. This was in NH in February, your conditions may vary.
As an alternative, I used a regular RV propane furnace for temporary use. I made a stand for it and slid open a window and put a piece of 1/4" luan plywood in the track. The intake and exhaust holes were drilled and the unit installed. It just blew out with no ducting. Worked well and when the conversion was done, it was installed properly in the bottom of a cabinet with ducting, etc.
Jim |
cw mci9 (66.144.52.102)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 10:13 am: | |
I live in Ohio and used two methods of heat last winter when I was striping and redoing the inside.
I used a propane heater inside the bus to heat it up fast. It was a 80,000 btu no fan unit.
It got to hot in the bus after a few minutes. So I switched sources.
I had a source of 110 volts so I built a stand and put a 35,000 btu reddy kerosine heater outside the door and shot the heat inside the bus through the door opening .
I could regulate the heat by placing the heater further from the door. The fumes were outside along with the CO and CO2.
This is the way I did it.
carl mci 9 |
Larry (208.18.102.153)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 4:56 pm: | |
Reddy heater works great. The way Carl did it should be safe enough. I use one in a metal building and open the door some, it does get strong smelling if I close the door. But I don't know how dangerous that is. They show it heating closed shops, but ???????????
Be careful, hate to lose a fellow nut. |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.234)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2003 - 5:33 pm: | |
Thanks, Ghents! Went looking today and there are several options. I'd just never had the need for anything like this before. Soooo much to learn!
-Chuck |