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Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (65.73.176.89)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 6:56 am:   

What R-values are members trying to achieve or have achieved in walls, roof and floor?

Are members actually considering insulating the floor? If so, what with? The stick & staples I have seen have only a plywood floor and carpet, but with the growing trend to "wood" floor coverings, this could be quite a cool surface.

Peter.
DonTX/KS (205.187.92.192)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 8:03 am:   

Even for a guy that stayed in warm climates, I wished I had been able to put in some floor insulation. In a 4905 without a raised roof, the problem becomes one of using the height you have wisely. I would consider a roof raised conversion that failed to insulate floor, as not properly done, darn that floor gets cold fast!
I also think we get carried away pretty far on R values, when we have that huge windshield area tramsmitting heat out of the bus at warp speed to live with.
Sam Sperbeck (206.230.105.230)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 10:20 am:   

Hi Peter,
We have a wood floor in our kitchen and since we take off our shoes when we enter our bus my wife complained about how warm the wood floor was on her bare feet so I insulated under the floor (ceiling of bay) with foil faced urethane. We use our bus almost exclusively in the summer so don't know how effective it is in cold weather. The one trip we did make in winter was to Branson and at 4 degrees one morning the water line from the fresh tank to the pump froze so we bought an electric cube heater for the bay and that had the added benefit of heating the bathroom floor. Very nice to step into the shower with the floor warm. As to R value overall I am aiming at about 10 in the walls in the Prevost we are working on and 30 in the ceiling (1 1/2" and 4" respectively of hot sprayed foam). The ceiling and walls below the windows already have 1 1/2" in them from the factory so all that has to be foamed new is the area where the windows are skinned over and the ceiling on either side of the basement A/C ducts. That may be overkill in the ceiling but the space is there anyway so why not use it. The roof has been raised 9" so we will still have plenty of finished ceiling height. We will also insulate under the floor (ceiling of bay).
Don, as for the windshield, we use foil faced bubble insulation to help keep the reflected heat out. It makes quite a difference.
Thanks, Sam Sperbeck
La Crescent, MN
DonTX/KS (205.187.92.15)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 11:24 am:   

Oh you Minnesota guys, gotta teach you about heat I guess :-)e
We found the foil INSIDE the windshield not too effective, just made the windshield glow dull orange (I am from Texas, we do tend to stretch the truth a bit on occasion), and you still had the heat INSIDE the bus. We had a set of those plastic screen deals made for outside of the single thickness windows, and were amazed at the effectiveness of them, AND you could still see out.
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (24.196.191.70)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 12:45 pm:   

I have the screening material with little holes in it that you can see out of but not in. It fits directly inside the windshield and fastens with velcro. It seems to do a good job of keeping heat out of the bus and you can still see out.
Richard
Terry Mac (67.233.187.125)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 5:26 pm:   

Well my dilema is different how do you keep the heat in.Does the screening material that DML mentioned work both ways
DonTX/KS (205.187.92.118)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 6:22 pm:   

I did not feel it did a diddley thing towards keeping it inside.
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (65.74.64.127)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 9:39 pm:   

Don, what are "those plastic screen deals made for outside of the single thickness windows"? I would be real curious what it would take to come by a set of them.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Don TX/KS (205.187.92.129)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 10:31 pm:   

In the snow bird areas, people come and make them for your bus, or you could make them yourself without much trouble. One portion of a snap is screwed to the bus, the other to the plastic screen.
You can see a poor photo of what they look like on my bus here: http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b3549e802538
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (24.196.191.70)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 11:23 pm:   

Bill and Brenda will be at the Arcadia FL get together. They make the external ones. He will be the new Prevost owner doing the parking.
Richard
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.215.134)

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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2003 - 11:57 pm:   

Trying to steer this thread back to my original question.......

All I can glean from the answers so far to my original question, is that virtually no one has any idea how much insulation is in their bus or has even considered insulating the floor? Is this correct?

Peter.
FAST FRED (209.165.0.224)

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Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 6:40 am:   

Most GM have about 1 1/2 inches if insulation in the walls and overhead.

This is sealed in paper bags with a layer of tar paper tp exclude moisture from the fiber glass inside.

Works fine , the problem is always the huge window areas.
Simplest is to push out the stock window and pull simple plastic covering the window outside in while closing.

Less air leaks and better insulation than factory doubble glass.

Can be taped on inside for rear huge rear windows.

Foward simplest is to seal the coach off from the very foward areas with a removable curtan.

This gets rid of huge windshield, drivers & door windows and frequently leaky door problems.

Doesn,t look great bur at 0F who cares if your warm?

FAST FRED
Tomhamrick (167.83.101.23)

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Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 8:10 am:   

Hey Fred, welcome back. Hope you enjoyed the trip.
As far as insulation in my Eagle 10 I used 1 1/2 inch roofing insulation in the ceiling, walls and under the floor. Still working in the bus but the insulation seems to work fine for me. I am also using original windows.
Tom Hamrick

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