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Kat Battersby (Ramblinruby)
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Username: Ramblinruby

Post Number: 45
Registered: 5-2009
Posted From: 66.18.163.175


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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 3:14 pm:   

Hi All,

My 4106 did not come with a suburban water bypass so I have to use my fresh water holding tank and water pump all the time. Being a full-timer, this can be tedious at times. Any recommendations on how I can install a bypass?

Thanks,
Kat
Tim Brandt (Timb)
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Username: Timb

Post Number: 606
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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 3:22 pm:   

Here is how I designed mine. It allows me to select pump or city and while in city I can also fill my tank with the midle valve

http://members.tccoa.com/timb/water.jpg
Dal Farnworth (Dallas)
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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 3:46 pm:   

Why is it tedious? (He asks, innocently).
When we were in the bus, we got 45PSI from the pump all the time, the city water was brought in at 60 psi, because of a pressure regulator.
Water lines are 1/2" for the galley and the toilet, 3/4" for the shower.
Bill McMackin (06_bill)
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Username: 06_bill

Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2006
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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 4:50 pm:   

Tim just wondering why we all mount the pump motor
down? When a leak happens motor is first to go, I
know. 06 Bill
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1311
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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 6:26 pm:   

Kat,

All you need is a shut off valve to the water tank, two Ts and some pipe/tubing to go around the valve to the tank outlet.
Kat Battersby (Ramblinruby)
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Username: Ramblinruby

Post Number: 46
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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 10:16 pm:   

Hi Gus,

I can shut off my water pump but don't know where to bring in a valve to bypass it so I can still use my tank and/or direct hook-up to city water.

Thanks,
Kat
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
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Username: Ralph7

Post Number: 190
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 75.200.191.131

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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 10:50 pm:   

You need not bypass it, you install water pump from bottom of fresh water tank and tee it into the line to the backk side of the city water input . The city water has a check valve to hold water from going out, you need a way to fill fresh water tank, so a tee to the tank with a valve,from the also from the city water line. The coach water pump has a check valve in it so no water flows back to tank while city water in hooked up.
Sounds funny but it works .
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1506
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Posted From: 75.58.176.41


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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 7:07 am:   

WE prefer to use only tank water as we travel.

Water SUCKS in many places , so its far better to bring your own than drink someones old swimming pool water.

The Fed Park or Forrest folks have millions to blow , so are usually the best water in town.

Living at a campsite , the FW tank is sized similar to the combined Black, so when the FW needs filling , the black is usually over 75% full,so ready for a dumping.

Leaving a black tank open can cause a loss of volume .

FF
Brian Evans (Bevans6)
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Username: Bevans6

Post Number: 30
Registered: 5-2009
Posted From: 65.92.50.157

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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 9:25 am:   

What I did, and how my commercial RV is plumbed, is this: simply put a tee connection in the cold water supply from the existing electric pump to the rest of the system, and add the outside water feed. The correct input fitting has a one way valve so that pressure from the pump can't escape, and the water pump has a one way valve so that pressure from the outside water source can't get past it into the tank. Could not be simpler, no need for any valves, taps, handles or anything else. Just Tee the outside water supply into the line coming from your existing pump to the rest of your system. Using a pressure regulator is highly recommended, mine is external and attaches to the end of my hose.

Brian
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1312
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Posted From: 173.202.13.136


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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 6:59 pm:   

Kat,

I assumed from your first post that you only have one water inlet to the bus.

If this is so you do assuredly need to block the tank inlet either before the pump or after (Depends on where the pump is plumbed). If you don't you will overfill the tank. That is the reason I said you need a shut-off valve.

If, however, you have two inlets - one directly to the tank and one to the water system - the pump can possibly act as a shut-off valve with its internal check valve.(Again, depends on where the pump is plumbed)

I have two buses, one with one inlet to the water tank and one with two, each is plumbed differently. The one directly to the tank is simply a trapdoor on the end of a large hose, no screw on connector.

The whole point is that when you are hooked up to outside water you need some system to stop water going into the tank. Your own special hookup will determine how you do that. You don't necessarily have to bypass the pump but you do need to block the tank water inlet somehow.

The best way to do this is sit down and draw a diagram of your system. Then it will be obvious as to how to block outside water from the tank.

I have hand valves on both my systems. I don't really trust water pump check valves.

I second the post on pressure regulators. I never hook up without one. I've been in RV parks that had 100 psi+ pressure, you sure don't want that in your bus system or in your feed hose to the bus.
Kat Battersby (Ramblinruby)
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Username: Ramblinruby

Post Number: 48
Registered: 5-2009
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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 11:24 pm:   

Hi Gus,

Yes, I only have one inlet to my fresh water tank. That's the only water inlet that I know of. I agree about the pressure regulator. I will look at the schematics on my plumbing system and see what I can figure out. Thanks for the info.

Kat
Dave Walker (Chrome_dome)
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Username: Chrome_dome

Post Number: 276
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 1:24 am:   

Kat I had one coming in to the top of the tank also. I cut the 1/2" pipe put in 2 ball valves with a tee between them with about a 3 inch piece of pipe between those. On the bottom leg of the tee which has the second ball valve on it I hooked it back in to the main system which the pump with a check valve is already on coming out of the bottom of the tank. So hooked the water hose to the outside fitting with a 40 to 60 PSI regulator plus filter and turn on the water open the top pipe valve which is just pass the tee toward the tank and close the lower one and wa la the tank fills. When full shut off the top one and open the bottom of the tee one. The water will by pass the pump and you will be using city water. If you want to use tank water just close both and turn the pump on. It will only pump when you open a faucet. Kiss "Keep it simple ......."
if you want to get fancy you can put a toilet tank filler valve in the tank if you are making it or have an access hole to put it in also.
Dave

(Message edited by chrome_dome on May 01, 2011)
Kat Battersby (Ramblinruby)
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Post Number: 49
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 12:01 pm:   

Hi Dave,

Thanks. I appreciate the info. I'm going to be getting my water from a well soon so need to see how that will work too. I'll see what I can do. By the way, where did you get your awning?

Kat
Tim Brandt (Timb)
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 2:21 pm:   

Bill that entire board as installed is actually rotated 180 degrees but I have the same issue when unhooking the city water it drips on the motor. That said it has been fine for 3 years now
Gary Seay (Gdude)
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Username: Gdude

Post Number: 50
Registered: 6-2010
Posted From: 216.67.116.242


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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 3:06 pm:   

Kat,
I'll tell you how I set mine up so there is no valvs to mess with or worry about forgetting. It's really easy and reliable and doesn't cost much. What I did is... on the pressure side of the pump, I installed a tee, then installed a spring loaded check vlv with a pressure regulator connected to it. Then all you have to do is connect your hose to the water source and turn it on. The check valve in your pump will keep the water from going back into your tank and the check valve you install in the tee will keep the systems pressure in the system. "no valves" Also what I did on mine is... I installed a hose reel in the plumbing bay and connected it to the pressure regulator, so all I have to do is pull the hose out, hook it into the water source, and turn it on at the source. No hose to coil up when I'm done. I love it!!

Gary

Sorry,Just noticed I pretty much repeated Brians post.

(Message edited by g-dude on May 01, 2011)
Dave Walker (Chrome_dome)
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Username: Chrome_dome

Post Number: 279
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 5:38 pm:   

Kat it was on the coach when I bought it. It has the top bend arms so it lays close to the roof and wall.
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 6:21 pm:   

Dave has a good point, there is no better valve than a stainless steel ball valve with only a 90* throw from full off to full on.

My objection to spring loaded check valves outside the pump is it is just one more thing the pump has to work against.

Pressure regulators should always be at the source to protect the feed hose as well as the bus system. This has saved me more than one hose. It is simple to hook the regulator to the end of the hose and leave it there. One RV park I used had 120 psi and another one had 150 psi. Crazy!!
Kat Battersby (Ramblinruby)
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Username: Ramblinruby

Post Number: 50
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 7:53 pm:   

Getting to my water pump will be a challenge as it's buried in my closet....lol. It helped keep it from freezing in -11 degree cold but it's not so easy to get to. I will look at the schematics and see what would be possible without tearing my bedroom apart. Thanks to everyone for all the tips.

Kat
Gary Seay (Gdude)
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Post Number: 51
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 10:45 pm:   

Quote

My objection to spring loaded check valves outside the pump is it is just one more thing the pump has to work against
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------------------------------------

Your pump won't have to work aginst the check valve. The only thing that has to open the valve is the water coming in from the outside source.

As far as the pressure regulator goes, I'm a firm believer in hard plumbing in a good commercial/residential in line. The kind I use is the Watts and it's adjustable. It will take in up to 300lbs of pressure and reduce it down. I also have one of those cheap kind that you can get at Walmart and it's hooked at the end of my hose reel. I also did this on my class A. If I loan one of the RV's out to my father in law or one of the kids, I won't have to worry about them losing the hose with the regulator and buying another and not hooking up a regulator.

Gary
Dave Walker (Chrome_dome)
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Post Number: 280
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Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 11:19 pm:   

Yep Most spring valves like gary is talking about work pretty flawlessly and smooth. They are set up to open and close at 300 or 3 lbs and all in between which ever you need.
I just like shut offs everywhere I can get them and ball valves like Gus was saying are good to have where you can. I also like the 1/4 turn ball supply shut offs also. I put them in the bathroom at all water supplies and at the toilet incoming and after it but before the sprayer, so that if 1 of them should ever leak I can shut only that part down to fix instead of the whole line and fast. There are no rubber washers to replace as in a regular shut off and I don't have to run outside and open the wet bay and find the shut off.

Dave
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Post Number: 1317
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Posted on Monday, May 02, 2011 - 5:32 pm:   

Dave,

I did the same thing at my toilet supply after my flush valve froze and cracked and I didn't know it until my carpet was completely soaked. When I discovered this I had to shut off the whole water system. This won't happen again!!

I've had too many check valves fail to ever trust them when I have a choice.

I also have started installing them in my house when the old gate valves fail, which is often.

The nice thing is the balls are self cleaning every time the valve is operated.

(Message edited by gusc on May 02, 2011)
Len Silva (Lsilva)
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Posted on Monday, May 02, 2011 - 6:02 pm:   

You will often find high pressure in areas at the foot of a mountain, Roanoke, VA comes to mind. Blew a water tank there with the 100+ water pressure.
Len Silva (Lsilva)
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Posted on Monday, May 02, 2011 - 6:04 pm:   

You will often find high pressure in areas at the foot of a mountain, Roanoke, VA comes to mind. Blew a water tank there with the 100+ water pressure.


Just in case you didn't hear me the first time! Sorry about that.

(Message edited by lsilva on May 02, 2011)

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