| Author |
Message |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 9:02 pm: | |
I'm wondering if anyone knows how the button opener on the fron of a 3751 is supposed to work. Mine doesn't and I can't figure out how it's supposed to. |
Doug (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 9:31 pm: | |
Slam the door and it should activate the button......pres the button and it should release the door |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2004 - 10:01 pm: | |
Cool deal I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks Doug!!! |
Doug (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 9:56 am: | |
Unless the door is slammed the plunger is not pushed out. you might try latching the door on the inside with the handle and have someone else push the plunger....same thing as slamming it. |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 1:13 pm: | |
The plunger is actually broken at the moment. So I'm going to get my wife to sit in the bus while I try to get the door to latch(so I don't get locked out).
A couple weeks ago I posted about haveing a remote door latch thing and since I figured if I could get the one that came on it to work it would do the same thing. |
dOUG (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2004 - 9:36 pm: | |
all the plunger does is push open the handle via under the dash......or at least it works thaT WAY ON THE 04 |
TomNPat (68.137.169.59)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 12:39 am: | |
Nick,
Seems like at its age, your bus needs a good mechanic for a couple of days. Someone who knows buses and can get the repairs made quickly.
TomNPat |
FAST FRED (65.150.247.64)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 6:32 am: | |
Sounds more like Da BOOK would be really helpfull.
FAST FRED |
Doug (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 7:29 am: | |
problem is the 3751 book is hard to find.
Might want to get in touch with the pacific Bus Museum.
They have a member who I just sold a 3751 to and he has the books |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 8:45 am: | |
Thanks for the input guys I tried to get it to work yesterday but no go. Does slamming the door make the handle flip around to the locked postion?
There's a round button at the top of the door frame I thought was a switch for the door and step light. However I took it off yesterday and it's a brass ball with no wire or even places for wires. It had been painted so many times it wouldn't move but I could here a spring inside the housing. Is there supposed to be something on top of the door that would "lock" into that little ball and hold the door shut? With no handle it would be difficult to open if so and if not what is it supposed to do?
I got a copy of Da Book on CD from Coach Info but the only reference to the button on the front is a spec on a picture of the front and there's no refernce to the little ball in the top of the door. There's really not a whole lot wrong with her right now but I'm waiting on oil filters and time to go get a shifter and I'm board and enjoy messing with her so I'm taking stuff apart and finding out what does what and what doesn't do anything. Other than leaking a little oil and gear dope, and a front air line being broken she's in good shape. Good enough that she came from Virgina and the only trouble I had was having dead batteries killing my lights, but I've got that fixed now. Reading 15 volts on the gage with the same batteries no less. I don't plan on making in cross country trip till I make sure they won't leave me but it will do to get it from here to where I'm going to work on her.
Anyhow I've gone on long enough. Thanks for all the advice and keep sending it. I can do most of the work but I don't know most of the systems on these things (this being my first) so I need all the help I can get!!!!! |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.40.150.96)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 8:58 pm: | |
Before I start, let me say that I don't know very much about GM coaches...
That brass ball and spring kinda sounds like it could be part of a door operated light switch. Just a W.A.G., but thats what it sounds like.
Brian |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2004 - 9:34 pm: | |
That's what I thought it was before I took it out. But there is no where to attach any wire nor are there any going to it. All it has is a 1/2 inch stud comming out of the top of the aluminum husing that is double nutted. I suppose you could attach a wire to that but I don't see the need in it being so large nor do I see GM just wraping a wire around it and tightening the two nuts down. There is a striker plate on the top of the door but no hole for it to be a catch of some sort. It's a mystery to me!!!!! |
Doug (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 8:15 am: | |
Nick it's either for the step light or the step that is supposed to go out when the door opens.
it is a switch. wire would have an eye on it and sandwiched between the two nits.....alot like a power wire to a starter
slaming the door does lock the door just like locking it from the driver's seat.
the plunger might need to be aligned |
Doug (68.83.22.144)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 8:16 am: | |
Order the parts book too. often there is not reference in one but is in the other. |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 6:58 pm: | |
Cool deal it no longer works so it matters not. I've got the parts book, maintance, engine and operator manual and there is no reference anywhere I can find.
No matter I'll either figure it out of fix it with the remote cable and latch. Does the same thing just a little more work but very little.
Thanks a bunch Doug. |
BrianMCI96A3 (65.40.150.96)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 12:25 am: | |
Nick, actually, if it is all still there, it would probably still work if you took off all the paint.
Who knows why it was disconnected, the brass ball is meant to be the path to ground for the light circuit.
Brian |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 7:24 am: | |
It was probably disconnected for the same reason everything else was!!!! I'm just not sure why, I'm trying to give whoever the benifit of the doubt and say that she probably has some sort of electrical problem that couldn't be run down so they cut everything off her. Emergency shut off, the door light switch in the tool box up front, all the wireing in the rear compartment. Basically they cut all the original wires at both ends and started over. It's driving me crazy. |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2004 - 6:53 pm: | |
I found the little button last night in the parts book, no pic but it's called a door retainer. I went out and got it apart and back working. I think I'm going to "help" it a little when I get a chance by putting a new striking plate on the door with a whole in it to hold the plunger a little better. Thanks again guys. |
rdub (66.117.229.181)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 5:22 pm: | |
Hi Nick,
I see you finally discovered that the door retainer is just that...a door retainer. It has an adjustment to ensure the door stays closed tight due to outward pressure at highway speeds (windnoise). The light switch is mounted on the door actuating arm behind the front panel. The plunger button on the front works just like the 4104s. It pushes the vertical door actuating shaft so that it retreats from the overcenter position thus allowing you to open the door from the outside. It is also adjusted from behind the front lower dash panel. I have had every moving and stationary part off my 3751 at one time or another...I'll be happy to be a know-it-all. Later, Rdub |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 6:51 pm: | |
Rdub
How do you get your door to go past center when you close it. I've slamed, adjusted, slamed, and readjusted, and.....well you get the picture, I can't make it move past center. My button is broken but I can fix it if I have a reason to.
Also all I can get the door retainer to do is keep the door from coming all the way open. It holds it about two to three inches from closed. I've got it adjusted out as far as I can and it not hit the inside of the door. What do you think about taking the striker plate off the door and drilling a hole in it to give the retainer plunger a place to seat when the door is close? Is that nessasary or I'm I missing something simpler?
Thanks in advance.
I need a know it all for this thing I haven't had a great deal of experince with the old style stuff in the ol' girl (like any). |
rdub (66.42.170.147)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 12:55 pm: | |
Nick,
Try to refrain from slamming the door...you'll wear out the hinges. Take the lower front interior dash panel off so you can access the door mechanism. There are two connecting rods at the bottom of the door handle vertical shaft. One actuates the curb step (one of my favorite features), the other swings the door. Those rod ends are threaded to allow adjustment for closing the door tight with the handle going just over-center to "lock" the door. Before you do anything with the plunger or retainer, adjust the door so that it opens and closes correctly. Then adjust the other items. The retainer has a ball and spring with a nut to adjust spring tension on the back side of it. The ball originally rested in a shallow cup on the door jamb (like a cabinet keeper)and it should not have so much tension that it interferes with the door opening and closing smoothly. If your door is adjusted tight and your hinges are good, you really don't need that retainer. Make sure you check your door hinges...the bottom one is prone to breakage or coming loose at the mounts (screw holes). Seeya, Rdub |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 7:45 pm: | |
Rdub,
I've tried to adjust the linkage but I've only got an adjustment at one end should I have two? My hinges seem to be fine not over worn and both intacked. Should the door hold itself shut with the weather stripping worn/stiff or missing?
The plate on the door has on cup in it. It may have been replaced for some reason who know's why.
Also I'm thinking of fabricting new bay latches any thoughts, ideas, sugestions? |
rdub (66.117.225.238)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 7:18 am: | |
Nick,
The one end adjustment is all you need to get the door to close correctly. You have to remove the threaded end (take out the bolt on the yoke end that attaches to the aluminum door pivot arm)in order to adjust the length of the rod. It's a trial and error process until to get it right. Yes, the door should hold itself shut and the actuating handle go just over center when it's right. I would take all the weatherstripping off and replace it since stiff or hardened w/s can interfere with the door closing tight. Garage door bottom neoprene seals can be modified (trimmed)to work.
If you dissemble and clean the bay latches, I think you'll like them. Their design prevents rattles and keeps positive pressure on the doors. Otherwise, look for a junk 4104 and try to incorporate those latches.
Rdub |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 7:31 am: | |
I've got two latches that are broken off, one at the hinge holes and the other at the base(same door). I've also got the front latch on the tranny bay broken but I don't think I've got the equipment to fab that one. Does the 4104 have the same latches as ours? That would be great!!!! |
rdub (66.42.171.154)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 5:25 pm: | |
No, the 4104 is a whole different latch system. You can either weld and redrill your broken parts or find some used...don't use Dean's Coach tho' unless you've got a lot of time to wait and a lot of money to spend! Rdub |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 7:21 pm: | |
Time I've got money I don't. I think I'm going to try to make some though. Like I said I've got the time and not the cash.
I got another ? for ya. I'm going to have to put a head gasket on the ol' gal before I go too far. I think that should help the little smoking she does as well as my hard starting not to mention the oil running down the block from under the head. Anyhow I'm sure DD is going to want to know the number on the block to get me the right parts, so where is it? And if you say its on the bulkhead side of the engine how do I get in there to read it?
We need to try to meet up somewhere Rdub. I think I remeber you saying you around Cinn. One of these days if we can work it I'll buy ya dinner somewhere for all the help you've given me.
Thanks a bunch. |
JImmci9 (209.240.205.68)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 10:09 am: | |
nick... the 671 doesn't have a "head gasket".... it has individual fire rings on each cylinder .... then uses o-ring type seals for water passages..and has a perimeter o-ring seal just underneath the edge of the head....a good tune-up will cure your hard to start problems....by someone who KNOWS 2 strokes... |
Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 09, 2004 - 6:46 pm: | |
Hey Rdub,
Did you remove the wire from the cloth conduit in your bus? If so how did you get it out, if not where do you suggest I re-run all my wire? |