| Author | Message | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
Ok I'm hoping to get the rest of the interior of my silversides strip out in the next week or so. I'm planning on going down to the fram to be sure that I'm rebuilding a sound coach. In addition to fixing an rust I may find (none yet) I need to get some in put on how to run my wire i.e. drill through the supports (I wouldn't think this would be good) or route around them. I also want to put a sat. system on the roof but don't have the cash for it now so I'm wanting to be able to run this at a later date. Do I need to run wire now, if so what kind, or do I just need to run conduit with a string in it to fish wire later? I'm looking at putting my reciver and other sat. equipment behind the destination sign along with the stuff for my back up camera and GPS which will also be added later. In short I want to be able to add gagets as I get the money but I want to go ahead and get my interior started. I also would like to build in a good amount of versatility so I can add other things later I may not have thought about. Also I'm planning on putting naggahide ceillings in. I'm going to have 1/4 plywood or the like on the supports and the ceilling on that. What is a good way to get this done and make it look like I knew what I was doing when I did it? | ||
| Scott Whitney (66.82.9.82) Rating: N/A |
I would recommend adding some good sized conduit for satellite, unless you know now what model you will use and can run the exact wiring for it. Safe bet would be to run at least two runs of RG6 coax in the conduit and leave space to fish a control wire later as well, if needed. By having conduit you have flexibility to make changes later. Scott | ||
| CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.245) Rating: N/A |
I second the conduit. My Sat has the RG6 AND a 25 conductor ribbon cable that goes to the satilite. The ribbon cable is supplied by the manufactured and is a large size, I think they are #16 or #14 stranded. If you can fit it in, run at least a 3/4 inch conduit or flex conduit for this one. If not try to make a path for the ribbon cable and pre string it so you can access it later. My Sat only has a 3/4 inch hole in the roof for the cables. I am converting an RTSII and for running the wiring, I made a wiring trough that runs from the front of the bus to the rear and is covered by the window sills. This was easy as my bus has all the windows in it. The only wiring in the ceiling is for lights or traveling from street side to curb side walls. I don't think there is any wiring in the ceiling going front to back or visa versa. If I had not been able to use the Sill to keep the wiring, I was going to run the wire along the floor next to the wall in a PVC. I think the most difficult place to add wiring will be the ceiling when it is done unless you don't mind tearing the ceiling down to make alterations. Do as much as you can now, as technology changes, so do connections, cables sources etc. What is standard today may not be sufficient when you are ready. When my ceiling is done, I have no plans to open it up again. What a hobby. "Gotta Love It" "Imagine Your Dreams" cd | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.96.29) Rating: N/A |
Guess everybody is different...wire can go anywhere...your drain lines on your plumbing ALL need to be running downhill to the tank...I think that needs to be done first...then watter SUPPLY then wireing... | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A |
I used "flexible corrugated plastic tubing" type conduit for everything in my bus. It's not the heavy stuff that electricians use, it's more like the black stuff you'd see in a car's engine compartment. Actually it was surlpus aircraft stuff. I used many different sizes, and when I was done I put in a few extra pieces here and there around the bus with pull-ropes inside, so I could get at them later if I want to add anything. I've used one of those already and was really glad it was there. It's cheap and super easy to stick extras in now, before walls and ceilings go up... Most of my wiring conduits went into the ceiling and were later covered with sprayed insulation foam. So even if I need to get into one, I can with a little digging... it's worked out very nicely. Cheers Gary Gary | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.50.253)
Rating: N/A |
I have to agree with Two Dogs on this. You don't start building any structure from the roof down (especially difficult on multi-floor buildings)! I'm also not so sure that electrical conduit is the best way to go either? It is bulky and cumbersome and the bends have to be kept to a minimum and with long radius. I like the idea of a trough or open central chase with branches from there using wire loom(the spiral wound plastic stuff). Above the windows or at the floor/wall transition are ideal. Even with a good schematic done beforehand, changes are inevitable, and good open access to wiring is a necessity. With wire loom, it is fairly easy to make-up spare harnesses, connect them in and just leave them un-used until such time that you discover a new bell or whistle. An example is lights. I have put in probably more lights than necessary in my latest conversion; I don't have to use them, but they are there if I want to. Same goes for electric outlets. I have also built in 4"conduits" down the walls in the form of moulding and trim | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
What do ya'll think about this idea? I'm planning on running everything I can through the tunnel and then up through the walls/cabinets. That way I think I can get to most of it to do any repairs and or add to what I've got. I'm hoping on using the air ducts up the sides to run to the antenna and sattilite. At the moment I'm wanting a basement air condidtioner and Hydrohot heating and hot water. In other words all that will be on top is the sat and antenna. I'll have a couple 12v fans but I'm not forseeing a problem running 12v wire in the ceiling. How does that sound for a plan? By the way I didn't ask about the plumbing cause I think I've got that handled. All my water will be pretty much directly over the wet bay makeing running that just a matter of working around the tunnel. I've always heard the only qualifications to be a plumber is knowing these three things: Sh** runs down hill Pay day is on Friday and the boss man is an S.O.B. Does that about cover it?  | ||
| TWO DOGS (63.185.73.82) Rating: N/A |
I'll say I told ya' so later | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
Told me so about what, I said "I think" I've got the water handle. If there is something I've missed let me know. I'm planning on using that blue and red water pipe stuff, is it PLEX I think. Anyhow I think that will be easier to deal with than rigid plastic or copper since I have a aflction with either cutting too long or too short. At least with the flexable stuff I won't have to worry about cutting it too long. Ya'll let me know if I'm being nieve here. | ||
| Phil (204.89.170.126) Rating: N/A |
You forgot the most important thing to qualify as a plumber, don't chew your fingernails! | ||
| Larry (208.18.102.9) Rating: N/A |
And pay day is on Friday | ||
| CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.83) Rating: N/A |
"don't chew your fingernails!" - - - E E O O O W W W W W W - - - "Imagine" cd | ||
| FAST FRED (63.234.20.95) Rating: N/A |
Custom Coach used to drop all their boat cable wiring in a chanel that hid the lights foward and a simpler open topped one all the way to the rear. Advantage is CHANGES or REPAIRS were a snap , unlike any other system. IF you build much or most of the interior and THEN install the plumbing it will not cost more materials , only a bit more work, But again CHANGES & REPAIRS will be a snap. You or the next owners may decide the 12V dishwasher , a Bidet at the tiolet , or outside shower is necessary , or repairing plumbing that froze to distruction is a nice Idea. Bury ONLY what you will never repair or change , not much. FAST FRED |