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Message |
drhutchins (63.26.210.78)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 12:15 am: | |
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF WHEN REPLACING AN AIR STARTER WITH ELECTRIC DOES THE DISCONECTING AND REMOVAL OF THE MAIN STARTER AIR TANK IN ANY WAY DISABLE ANY OF THE OTHER AIR OPERATED SYSTEMS. MY RTS HAS AIR WIPERS, AIR SEAT, AND OBVIOUSLY AIR BAGS AND BRAKES. AND IM CONCERNED WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF DISABLEING SOME OTHER AREA OF THE AIR EXCESSORIES. ALSO, DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY PRECAUTION MEASURES REGUARDING THE REMOVAL OF THE FACTORY AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM OVER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. |
RJ Long (24.130.101.25)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 1:25 am: | |
Doc -
99.9% of all coaches on the road using air brakes, etc., have a minimum of three, but most have four, air tanks: primary, secondary, emergency and auxiliary. On some coaches, the emergency and auxiliary tanks are physically one tank, split internally for the two functions. Adding an air starter adds a fifth LARGE tank, usually plumbed downstream from the auxiliary. All tanks are separated by check valves, which only allows air to flow in the order indicated above from the compressor.
The typical plumbing provides the following:
Primary - operates rear brakes
Secondary - operates front brakes, also plumbed in such a way to provide air to rear brakes in case of primary tank failure.
Emergency - only used to release parking brake, or, if system should suddenly lose all pressure in the P & S tanks causing the brakes to set, allows movement of the coach off the street to safety. Only has enough for one or possibly two stops.
Auxiliary - provides air to ancillary items, i.e. suspension, wipers, doors, air starter tank, etc.
That's the basics. BUT:
Before you start pulling out air lines, you need to get the shop manual for your coach and study the air system plumbing thoroughly.
I'd also suggest you traipse on down to your local DMV and pick up a copy of the CDL manual, and study the air brake system in there. Good info, and it's free!
Bendix, one of the major players in the air brake market, makes some terrific training stuff, and the trucking trade magazine Commercial Carrier Journal has an excellent book out on HD air brake systems. Well worth the nominal cost.
Lots of RTS converters remove the HVAC from above the engine and utilize that space for the genset.
Hope this helps,
RJ
PD4106-2784 |
Tony Wahl (152.163.207.209)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 9:57 am: | |
There are two drain fittings in the bottom of the "Air-Monster" that exstend thru the top of the engine compartment where they couple w/some large copper tubing that carry the rain water to the road. The fittings need to be removed to "slide" the monster straight out. Our RTS came w/ a ventilated rear cap that I didn't want to remove or cut up so I had to pound the monster's top down a little to clear the cap. Using a couple of 4x4's for skids, I let gravity put it in the bed of my pickup. I read somewhere that unit weighed 700lbs. It weighs 200-250lbs tops.
The roof-air, THAT was heavy!It knocked a big hole in the driveway when we shoved it off the roof. Our unit wasn't charged so we didn't have to mess w/ that.
Good luck,
TonyW |
lukeatuscoach (63.24.151.15)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2001 - 9:13 pm: | |
Hi DR:
We have recently been converting a bunch of the N.J. Transit Eagles from air to electric start.
R.J. & Tony have given good info. R.J. is correct the air system for the starter is isolated from the rest of the coach air system.
What you have to do is follow the air feed line from the starter back to its source ( hopefully a tank without any branch lines in between). If that is the case, then you will plug the tank opening that feeds the air starter. You will probably have to add a relay to feed current to the starter, add a cable from the battery power source and a ground. Your air system should be fine, but the electrical set up must be installed with the proper materials to carry the current for the starter. If you need additional help you can E-Mail me from this post and then report back to the Board for the benefit of others, how you did the conversion.
Now with regard to the A/C system. You have large valves at the compressor with fittings for charging. Take a pen or sharp instrument and push down on the Shrader Valve (just like on your tires). If it hisses, then your system is charges with Freon. If so, you want to have it evacuated by an A/C shop. You don't want the freon floating in the environment and it can be harmful and dangerous to you!!!! From there, remove the system.
I hope this helps!!!!
LUKE @ US COACH |
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