| Author | Message | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa) (4.224.204.82)
Rating: N/A |
I tried heat from a heat gun (hair dryer size), heat from a double burner, propane fired, catalytic heater, and a square point shovel. None work acceptably. I tried an air chisel with a 3" by 5" plate 3/32" thick welded to a .401 shank air chisel bit and it worked mediocre. First the 3/32" plate broke in the middle, after welding back and reinforcing it held up but the shank on the chisel bit broke at the edge of the weld. (1/2' dia) The plate also was pretty hard on the plywood flooring, maybe I had it too sharp. The same linoleum and same glue held the side pieces on and it pulled off in one piece but this won't budge easily. Maybe if I made a cut, with my circular saw, about an 1/8" deep, it would come up in strips like the sides did. A 3' by 6' area in 4 hrs.(some time was welding) is not acceptable. Does anyone have a good. quick method? Thanks in advance for your time, and info. Ed Jewett | ||
| Dale MC8 (69.19.144.107)
Rating: N/A |
Try a heat gun sized heat gun. If it sticks that good consider leaving it and just overlay the floor.FWIW Dale | ||
| Bob (Bobb) (207.216.171.182)
Rating: N/A |
Try a flooring or rental store. There is a machine with a vibrating knife to remove linoleum. | ||
| Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.129)
Rating: N/A |
I used a "weed burner" from Harbor Freight-- a big blow torch with a hose that attaches to a 5lb. propane bottle. I heated up up the linoleum and peeled the flooring off like a banana. The whole job took about 30-40 minutes. Caution-- have the bus completely empty and have a water hose handy... --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| John the newbie (199.232.240.191) Rating: N/A |
Hmmm Is there any reason not to use luann over the original flooring and lay whatever you want on top of that? | ||
| Phil Dumpster (24.16.243.37) Rating: N/A |
Some people don't like the idea of carrying around the extra weight? Depending on the age of the bus, it would probably be wise to remove the old floor completely and replace it. There may be dry rot or bug/rodent damage that you can't see. | ||
| Ace (24.28.44.58) Rating: N/A |
Ok now that you guys and have tried all the heat methods, do this. Pull off the top layer of mirrorbond finish. The shiny part! Then soak the felt backing with water, preferably warm, and it will roll right off the floor in no time at all. I've been doing this for 36 years in the floor industry and it hasn't failed me yet! I hope this is ok to post since other sites with other people seem to think that unless you are a pro you need to keep quiet on a certain subject. I asked about wire size and was shot down by some that feel that I probably am not capable of wiring my bus if I had to ask this question! Does the same reply here? Are you not capable of removing an old floor if you had to ask how?  Some people just never quit! This method will work, just give it time. The deeper the notches the installer used when applying the glue originally the longer it will take! If it is not the origianll and has been done numerous times, it will take even longer! If it's on a wood floor, do not use a scraper. It will leave gouges and will need filling. If it's too bad, you will have to use a luan sub floor but there is a way to avoid that if you take your time and do it right! Ace | ||
| John the newbie (199.232.240.182) Rating: N/A |
Since both the floor and ceiling are integral to the bus structure, I'd personally be a little reluctant to chop out those areas if I didn't absolutely have to. The luann wouldn't add to the weight that much; I doubt the amount needed would weigh as much as 1/2 the seats that were removed. Actually, I'd prefer to leave the old floor and use one of the new adhesives that will permit gluing a new floor product right over the old floor. And, there are enough products to use (Pergo, etc) that do not require any adhesive at all to choose from, if desired. I guess this is along the same lines as the decision to remove the coach A/C or not and/or the decision to add two A/C units to the roof of the vehicle? Phil.... After reading your posts to me on two different threads, I get the feeling there's something about the way I part my hair that you don't like. You can toss me into the bit-bucket with "Fast Fred" if you'd like, I'm from the same school of thought. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I rebuilt the inside of a Georgie-Boy, complete with oak flooring throughout and oak woodwork and accessories that could grace the best of homes. It was a waste of time. It's still a typical stick and staple unit with all it's faults; Overweight, underpowered and it's chassis is poorly constructed. And no amount of cash or re-working will ever help. I'd like to use a bus conversion for the pleasure of travelling, just as we have with the RV for the past bunch of years. But I'd like to convert a bus in the quickest time possible, rather than spend the rest of my short life doing it. What's the sense of buying a bus and spending every free moment working on it, rather than travelling in it? From all I've been reading at numerous web sites and forums, there are two classes out here: Those that love to keep up with the Jones - and those that love to get out and travel using one of the safest vehicles on the road. I'm in that latter group. Always a pleasure, Phil....... | ||
| Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.2)
Rating: N/A |
Ace's method sounds like a lot of work, and it is the only method mentioned that I didn't try: I tried the lineoleum scraper, I tried a hammer and a chisel, I tried a hand-held propane torch, and I even cut and removed one section completely along with the wood; but the torch I used from Harbor Freight worked like a charm as it was the only thing that would give off enough heat to loosen the glue and peel the linoleum off quicky. As far as leaving the vinyl flooring in place, if you want to see the condition of the old floor you have to remove the linoleum if you want to find areas of dry rot and make repairs (as someone mentioned). | ||
| John the newbie (199.232.240.182) Rating: N/A |
Might want to tear the skin completely off the exterior also to insure there's no corrosion under it. I guess this is a "whatever makes you happy" hobby. Me? I'd rather be camping. Can you do me a favor? Let us know if you do find dry rot or other damage under that floor? Those Eagles I looked at that were thoroughly rusted inside the panels, were totally absent of floor damage as noted by a complete inspection of the unit(s). You guys do have me curious. | ||
| CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.113) Rating: N/A |
Hi All I tried to move that floor covering and I started to destroy the plywood. As I was going to apply a Pergo/or like floor, I left the vinyl floor in. It will be a vapour barrior as well as water proofing. I don't think the vinyl will provide any insulation value but I am placing a insulation sheet under the pergo/or like, floor. If needed, I can always go under the floor and add more. The height lost by that floor vinyl is neglegible as for wood damage, you can see that under the bus. I estimated it would take me a week to pull that stuff out and then I have to repair what I damaged after the fact to the wood. Too much time lost for my thinking. GEE WHIZZZZZ ACE! I did'nt know you had to be an "EXPERT" in order to post on these boards. It sounds to me, someone had a bad day, you go right ahead and ask what you need to know here, thats what this board is for. "YOU DON'T REALLY THINK ITS OK TO PUT PROPANE IN A SEALED COMPARTMENT, DO YOU?" During some stages of the conversions, there is no "TESTED TRUE" method of build, and thats where the name "HOBBY" gets involked. Everyone has an idea, some may work for one bus, some for others. "IS IT OK TO RUN A SMALLER SIZE WIRE FROM A REMOTE LOCATION AND JUST FUSE THE DEVICE AT THE DEVICE LOCATION?" UNFORTUNATELY, no bus is the same, no conversion is the same. And the really BAD part, at least from what I can see, THERE IS NO STANDARD TO FOLLOW. This is something I have suggested creation for a long time but there is no place for a standard to find home. "IF I BOX IN THE GENSET IT WILL SOUND 'SOFTER', I DON'T THINK THE COOLING CAN BE AFFECTED!" The only standard we now have is what Common sense, or lack of, that the converter may have. In some cases, ITS A DARN GOOD THING that they ask if it would work or there would be a lot of dangerous buses out there. "I WILL ATTACH A VAN TO THE TOP OF MY BUS WITH ONLY SIKOFLEX, THAT SHOULD HOLD IT" I've always suggested caution with some ideas, as I have said before, some people may accept it as "THE WAY IT IS" and do the build. UNFORTUNATLy, what works for you may not work for me. "DO I REALLY HAVE TO PUT A FUSE BY THE BATTERY BANK POSITIVE TERMINAL? CARS DON'T HAVE THIS DESIGN" We can only offer thoughts and suggestions in most cases, and then the idea has to be mulled over by the person in need as to whether it would be possible and if it would work. Like it or not, this GROUP works together and conversions are being completed all the time. Much thanks to everyone who are hobbiest, knowledgable in some areas and who are actually techs in specific areas. For me, I have a "KNOWLEDGE" of many things in the bus, others I ask and compare to what I know about the subject. I will forever be thankful to those helpful nuts and to IAN for this board. KEEP ASKING QUESTIONS ACE, Do it right! "Imagine Your Dreams" cd |