| Author |
Message |
DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 1:09 pm: | |
What is involved in removing the auxiliary A/C unit from the rear of the passenger area in an MC-8? I have retained the original HVAC system, but don't want this unit in the bus.
Dave Dulmage |
John the newbie (199.232.240.47)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 3:10 pm: | |
Food for thought?
The bus I've been considering has an Auxiliary AC. I'm thinking
of running it with a 110v electric motor, since it appears easy enough
to do that. The entire unit can be relocated as well, if desired.
Don't throw that unit out. I might be interested in buying another one
in the near future! |
TWO DOGS (63.185.81.114)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 6:48 pm: | |
"I" wanted to put a 220 volt motor on the bus air compressor...everybody" said it would not work,but, sure wish you'd prove them wrong...it will take a 8 horsepower elec. motor tho....not 110 |
John the newbie (199.232.244.225)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 9:16 pm: | |
The Auxiliary AC (on the mci I'm about to buy) has it's own
compressor, fan and radiator and is completely separate from
the bus AC. It's located above the "squirrel cage" and driven
by a belt to the pulley that drives the radiator fans.
A 110v compressor motor should work just fine. I had been
hoping to hear from someone else that's accomplished that feat,
but all I've heard is that it can't be done... Go figure? |
ralph7 (208.148.72.159)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 9:40 pm: | |
Go try an ac motor on it, you will need 2 or 3 belts,motor possibly 10hp at 3600 rpm, also 4/8 wire not 4/10 and DO NOT tell ins. co. And I have not seen a resort with that much power. I had just the inside unit in the rear bloted to the roof, it used the bus compressor. the system was empty so I removed it. |
John The newbie (199.232.244.225)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 10:00 pm: | |
You're telling me that I'll need two to three belts to replace the
one single standard duty belt that runs it now?
Are we talking about the same Auxiliary AC system? The compressor
on what I am about to own, is the same size as an automobile AC
compressor. It has an electric clutch of the same design as one on
an automobile AC pump and uses the same size belt. |
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.86.149)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 10:00 pm: | |
If all you've heard is that it can't be done, then perhaps it can't. Are you just waiting for someone to tell you it can, when it actually can't?
There is a lot of experience on the boards and if what they say is not what you want to hear, then all I can suggest is that you go and buy a motor and find out yourself and then tell the board what you found out.
Peter. |
Captain Ron (207.30.240.194)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 10:44 pm: | |
If you throw enough money at something you can do any thing. as I have learned on my Harley they said quite a few things Ive done could not be done. I know why they said it now. not that it couldn't be done it shouldn't be done. but I showed me. |
DaveD (64.235.206.200)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 11:45 pm: | |
The AC unit I talking about is essentially an additional evaporator and fan, but uses the refrigerant circulated by the compressor driven by the engine. I'm just not quite sure what is involved in removing it if one wants to still be able to use the main AC. Any insight or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave Dulmage
(MC-8) |
Craig Smith (Craigs) (65.202.123.254)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 7:57 am: | |
Hi Dave,
I had an aux A/C in the back of my MC8 by where the bathroom was. Before I got to it someone else had removed the lines that ran down into the engine compartment. To remove it, there are six bolts that go through to the top of the bus. After removal, I was on top of the bus painting some white roof coating and noticed six bolts sticking up. I had pushed them up thinking they were between the skins. I pulled the bolts and put a bunch of silicone in the bolt holes. Had I known that the bolts went clear through both skins it would have been much easier. When I first tried to remove the nuts, the whole bolt turned. I cut them with a sawsall. What a mess I made. And the bus being already converted it was right over the bed. Hope you have better luck.
Craig S |
John the newbie (199.232.240.190)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 8:23 am: | |
Ok Dave. I now see where the confusion is. It appears that most
"auxiliary" systems use some part of the bus system. In the MCI
I've been looking at, it is totally separate with exception for the
power that it takes from the upper pulley of the radiator fan drive.
And.... my question still has not been answered. But I do have some
really great rude remarks I can save for a day I'm feeling too good. |
bobm (68.35.160.48)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 8:51 am: | |
I run the original ac with my generator engine, a 2-53 detroit, it turns the a/c compressor and a hydraulic pump. A hydraulic motor runs the fan. |
DaveD (142.46.199.30)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 8:51 am: | |
John,
If it's a smaller compressor, it might be worth a try to run it electrically. There may be some ratings available or markings on the unit that could be useful in estimating the load it would put on a motor. It doesn't look like anyone else on this board has tried it yet.
Dave Dulmage |
John the newbie (199.232.240.190)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 9:40 am: | |
Thanks guys.
I'm still negotiating on this bus. The present owner/operator has
nearly convinced me to use it for charter work instead of converting it,
but I'm still working out the fine print. (I'm retired and hate to work).
If I end up buying it to convert, I do want to keep as much of it
intact and operable as possible. The bus air needs service once a
year according to the owner. Usually about $200 does it, he claims.
So that's likely to stay. The Auxiliary one, I'd like to convert to 110v
operation and install a second unit in the front of the bus. I do not
want to put anything on the roof. I've owned RVs and have been
around the repair shops long enough to see the repairs from leaky
roof-air seals. I can do without holes in the roof.
Thanks again for the comments! |
ralph7 (208.155.122.132)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 9:34 pm: | |
Not to be rude but IF it is just the cooling part and uses the bus comp and cond my MC-8 HAD and I finished it's removal. Back to removal if it connected to bus comp, remove and cap both lines disconnect any wires to comp also. IF you have a stand alone unit with magnitic clutch you want to switch to 110 all elect. controls, blower motor,cond fan motor, comp. driver. Possibly cheeeeeper to install basement air. |
ralph7 (208.155.122.132)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 9:38 pm: | |
Not to be rude but IF it is just the cooling part and uses the bus comp and cond my MC-8 HAD and I finished it's removal. Back to removal if it connected to bus comp, remove and cap both lines disconnect any wires to comp also. IF you have a stand alone unit with magnitic clutch you want to switch to 110 all elect. controls, blower motor,cond fan motor, comp. driver. Possibly cheeeeeper to install basement air. |
John the newbie (199.232.240.168)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 9:48 pm: | |
I have a stand alone unit. The magnetic clutch is 24v and can remain.
All other electrics can remain 24v as well. The converter (or charger)
can keep the batteries charged while the thing is running.
Basement air would be nice. A 1 ton home unit should do well,
but I'd be into the 220v range. I'm trying to keep things simple.
A small home window type unit for the front might be possible,
if I rework it to be used as a two piece unit. But then again, finding
another Auxiliary 24v unit like the one I'm about to own, is probably
the better choice.
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I really don't know why
people are finding this concept is so "impossible".
I suppose I'll just have to do it myself and post the results, ehh? |
DaveD (64.235.205.130)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 19, 2004 - 10:19 pm: | |
ralph7
If I understand correctly you simply disconnected and capped the lines and disconnected the electrical connections and removed the unit. Capped lines remained attached to the rest of the main A/C system
Dave Dulmage
(MC-8) |
Dale MC8 (66.81.129.115)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 12:45 am: | |
John, go over to the left side of the screen and click 'Keyword Search' then input 'mini split systems' and you will find a whole bunch of info about 110VAC AC systems from last year.
HTH
Dale |
John the newguy (199.232.244.117)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 20, 2004 - 8:11 am: | |
Thanks Dale. There were three threads dealing with that. The one that
has useful information is here:
http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/2506.html?
There hasn't been any follow-ups to that thread, so it'll remain a mystery.
Finding a unit designed to be "split" and will have the capacity to be
used in our bus environment, is difficult. Finding one that runs on 110v
is even more difficult. The Auxiliary system that is in the MCI 9 that
I am about to buy appears to be the easiest to convert. I posted had to this
thread with the hopes I'd find someone that's already "been there; done that"
and could provide some more details.
(The one in "my" MCI appears to be a model the same as, or similar to
the Welch system: http://www.welchindustries.com/convkits.html) |