| Author | Message | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.247)
Rating: N/A |
I need a break from working on house issues and want to break for some light coachwork. MC9 steering wheel is a little too sloppy for me to feel comfortable, even though it appears to be within the tolerance I've seen mentioned. (Was it 2" of looseness back & forth? Somewhere I thought I had a snippet that described allowable 'slop' but can't find it. I suspect the first u-joint just under the wheel for at least some of the issue, and have studied the other parts of the linkages, but they *seem* to be tight. First spline is definitely tight. I guess that after the u-joint, I need a pro should look at the gearbox itself? Or is that the likely suspect before I start messing with the u-joint? Thanks, as always, for your wisdom. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.6) Rating: N/A |
Da book says 2" slop's OK, but tested with engine running and with wheels straight. Low fluid will make it sloppier....(?) | ||
| SmM. Heath (66.82.50.1) Rating: N/A |
If it has a worm-gear adjustment in straring gear check that out. S.M. H. | ||
| Deacon (204.184.224.42) Rating: N/A |
ChuckMC9, 2" is within reason. If you feel the U-joint is a bit slopy then change it, any loose movement before the steering box is multiplied. You might have someone turn the wheel slowly back and forth over the arc of steering wheel play as you observe the tie rod ends for slop. You might also jack up the front axle and check the king pins for wear. I would not suggest you fool with the steering box without experiance, they cost big bucks to replace if not adjusted right. Here's something I learned, don't try to hard to steer streight. Most roads have crowns and groves that will cause you to feel that you are wandering. Next time you feel this and there isn't anyone close to you, just ease up and let it go, and see if it comes back by itself, you may find that you are over correcting it. John F. | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.240.6) Rating: N/A |
If your bus is the older type without integral steering, you'll have some play that you'll have to get used to; It's just the nature of the beast, and Da Book tells ya' that also. Before integral steering 1/4 wheel play wasn't all that bad, if I remember right. (Hell, most of the old Eagles I drove way back when, had 3/4 wheel play... Ahh, but I had to walk uphill to and from work in shoulder height snow also... them were the days...) (ok, so I'm layin' it on heavy..) Measure the play in the steering wheel with the engine running, full of fluid and the wheels straight. 2" is normal and good. Low fluid will result in a feeling of more play; Engine not running will result in more play, and wheels too far left or right will indicate tremendous play. As said well by the Deacon, don't fight the bus. You'll knock yourself out like Don Quixote, fighting the "wind"mills of the highway. Just relax and correct if you find it actually drifting. It's something that unnerved me when I first drove buses years ago, but I got over it. Then I went to heaven. No, really.... | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.247)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks for the good counsel! VERY good information. Maybe it isn't as loosey as I thought. So, takeaway things to consider: 1.) Low fluid - (re-verify) 2.) U-joint looseness may make the whole system seem worse than it is. (Can multiply the effect) 3.) Gauging it while not running makes it seem looser than when running. 4.) Don't expect it to have the tightness of a Porsche. 2" wiggle ain't bad at all. In use, I actually keep it between the lines fairly adeptly but assumed it was my skill at being a natural-born busdriver. ;) I was definitely fighting it too much - after an hour-long trip I'd feel like I'd been in a barfight. Man I would have been horrified with 1/4 - 3/4 back and forth. And I'm not about to touch that steering box to try & adjust. I _think_ I'm learning my level of expertise!  (It is integral steering, BTW, and all the slop is definitely happening before it gets to the pittman & drag arms) PS: JtN, you're sounding less and less like a newguy... Time for a new handle for you! | ||
| Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)
Rating: N/A |
Nothin' to add to the above excellent posts, other than do not feel put out feeling uncomfortable with two inches of steering play. My Crown has only about one half inch. Going down the road, I only need to barely nudge the wheel and the girl wants to change lanes. Your steering could certainly be tighter. The question is---is the $cost$ and hassle worth the results. I am used to tight, precise steering. My beater, war orphan '81 VW Rabbit Deisel also has very tight steering. I suppose it is something you get used to. Good luck. | ||
| Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81) Rating: N/A |
Chuck, The steering box "adjust" isn't that difficult to accomplish. The procedure has been discussed on the BB before. I don't recall off the top of my head all of the factors, so I'll stay silent (haven't washed my socks lately, IYKWIM :^) ) An easy confidence builder would be to drop by the nearest charter company and talk to a mechanic. Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| Sojourner (68.60.169.142)
Rating: N/A |
============================================= Why 2 inch play in steering wheel……(if sector to gear is properly set) because of external hydraulic cylinder in line of steering link. Which mean primary link has to move about 1/8 to ¼ inches (2 to 4 inches of steering wheel) before hydraulic spool-valve is open to add oil pressure to cylinder within steering link. You could check to see if “ball” end has “oval” wear pattern, which mean to replace or it will bind after readjust to take up play. The best improvement anyone can make your bus steer like a car is replace old external steering box to integral steering box, which is self-contains hydraulic cylinder and spool-valve or rotor assembly. All power steering wheels has to have some movement to engage valve-ing to apply pump pressure to rotary or straight cylinder. So the bottom line is integral is better because valve-ing is before reduction gear box (steering), not afterward (will result must larger play). Here some links might be of interest to someone; Installing integral steering box; http://users.cwnet.com/~thall/fredhobe2.htm If you this route, be sure mounting plate extra secure (thicker and reinforces) to chassis framing. How integral power steering work; http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering4.htm Trouble shoot; http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/1997/02/056b9702.asp Sojourn for Christ, Jerry ============================================= | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.247)
Rating: N/A |
Jerry, these are good links. Even though I already have integral steering and knew it, it's been so long since I"ve driven an automobile with recirculating-ball that honestly I'd completely forgotten about the different feel compared to rack and pinion. So that 'rememberance' itself goes a long way in explaining things. I'm still gonna have a pro look at it one of these days once I get into the coach tweaking phase. (Like that'll ever happen) Unrelated, but I just saw a Chevy TV commercial that showed an 18 wheeler fully loaded car hauler doing a 90 degree or better full powerslide without tumping over. Now that required some expertise in steering and a few other skills! | ||
| John that newguy (199.232.244.151) Rating: N/A |
Hell, the old folks down here in Florida do that going through the plate glass window at Arbys all the time, Chuck. | ||
| Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.18)
Rating: N/A |
I don't think anyone has mentioned that there is no adjustment for integral steering boxes-- once the worm gear wears out you have to replace it. I had to put a new steering box (integral) on my RTS-- the old box had 6" of play with engine stopped, the new box has 3" of play with engine stopped. But those three inches of free play turns into virtually no free play with the engine running. --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.160.75.239)
Rating: N/A |
My money says that 18 wheeler's slide is computer enhanced. Jim |