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dougthebonifiedbusnut (24.147.157.103)

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Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 7:58 pm:   

hey all you people converting crowns tell me who you are and send me pictures i will do the same
jdexsquid (216.175.70.234)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 10:30 pm:   

Hey guy! Long time no hear! I've moved the intake and fabricated the black water tank. No pictures yet, but I need to soon. Have you managed to take any?

Jim
dougthebonifiedbusnut (24.147.157.103)

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Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 9:42 pm:   

hey jim
i just got a digatal camara as soon as i learn how to use it i wiill send you a bunch how did you do your tank i think i told you i am only using one tank for both and i am thinking og msking it out of plywood coverd with fiberglass
Reginald Bezzola (216.77.91.180)

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Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 9:01 pm:   

Got married, have 2 houses, dont need my bus anymore, am too old to be roaming anyway; would like to trade my crown for a dump truck, can anyone help?
73 Class A motor-home

10 near new tires(2 x 12 R 22.5 front, 8 x 10 R 20 M+S rear) full tandems, new shocks, 6 speed auto. Trans., p/s, 40 ft., 50 k miles on new 6 cylinder cummins, 125 gal. Diesel capacity in 2 tanks, 2 brand new 8D starting batteries with solar panel maintenance, recently rebuilt starter, & recored radiator 6 - 2 volt 960 amp-hrs. house batteries in series for 12 Volts, 2500 Watt Trace inverter; vented catalytic heater, 2 back-up cameras with mic's on 9 inch monitor, SS hot water heating system, 4 - 50 gal SS fresh water tanks, 100 gal SS black tank, 30 gal gray tank, 2 - 30 lb propane tanks, fans, Air seat, thermo-pane windows, with screens. clocks, phones. office desk, 2 tables. In-line bosh instantaneous gas hot water heater, Jacuzzi tub, side-by- side fridge/freezer, + 5 cuft. freezer, double SS sink, SS combo (one unit) washer/dryer, ceramic space and water saving toilet, queen size bed, 7 ½ ft closet, 4 burner stove and oven/broiler, micro wave.

Will trade for, dump-truck, with HD trailer (douals on tandems.---
Evenings 828-765-6748 / RegBez@Juno.com any time
The Buskid (152.163.201.187)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 11, 2001 - 1:30 am:   

I've got a 1969 Crown and a 1972 Gillig. The Crown has a 218 horsepower 671 Detroit Diesel with a 5-speed, and the Gillig has a Cat 3208 with a 10-speed. I just started in on stripping out the Crown, and have a few pictures posted on my web page; http://www.crownbus.com

I'd be interested in hearing how others have gone about converting their Crowns - especially how and where they mounted all their tanks, etc. I've owned three Crowns and two Gilligs, but just started in on the whole conversion thing.

I'll have more pictures of both the buses posted on my web page later this summer (I've been traveling for the past two months and won't be home until late July). But, please, feel free to e-mail me (CrownBus32@aol.com) anytime!

C-ya all around. :)
RC Bishop (128.123.88.12)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 7:51 pm:   

1964 Crown HIGHWAY Coach in conversion process.

12 slanted, sliding windows are available. In good shape, silver in color, tinted safety glass, inside ( hole ) measurement roughly 66.5 inches wide by 26.75 inches high. Approximate 3 inch radius on opposite corners Very nice windows with only a scratch or two here and there. Also full width back window, tinted and good condition. And seats in pairs, reclining, fair to good condition.

This coach has wheel wells that extend thru the floor area about 6 inches making it difficult to place bath or shower facilities in the usual general area in the bus. Showering horizontaly doesn't seem feasable. Any ideas or constructive suggestions appreciated.

Has anyone raised a roof on this type coach?

The baggage cavern in the rear seems a logical, place for almost all of the equipment one would carry ie, water and holding tanks, possibly generator and A/C. The area would hold a small elephant. Anyone had a go at this type thing?

It's a great bus: Cummins 220 turbo, Fuller Roadranger 10 speed, 58,000 since major, Jake, power assist steering, air ride. Lots of fun to SHIFT!!

Comments? Ideas, Suggestions? (helpful, please)

Thanx.
Manfred Boden (Manfred) (152.163.207.212)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 8:29 pm:   

I have some odd shaped windows in my 35' 1968 Prevost Champion. It's time for window covering! Night/day shades would be one Idea, but will have to be custom made. Any suggestions as to where? I am in Michigan.
Manfred
jdexsquid (216.175.68.12)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 10:45 pm:   

RC, I'd like to see the engine/ transmission layout as I will be changing my 5 speed Eaton to a 10 speed. What gear ratio is in the rear end?
Thanks for the info!
Mark R. Obtinario (Cowlitzcoach) (206.163.13.42)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2001 - 9:32 am:   

If you go to mrsharkey.com you will find a Crown that is going through a major conversion.

He is raising the roof, the floor, and I don't know what all else to the bus.

Personally, raising the roof on a Crown would be more trouble than it is worth. Unless you do like Mr. Sharkey and take everything off from the floor up and make it all new, getting the curves to match up and look right would be extremely difficult.

Good luck and have fun.

Mark O.
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.19)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2001 - 10:50 pm:   

Not sure I can give you the information you want on the gear ratio. I got about a ream of material and records from the original owner, but haven't taken time to plow thru it yet. That's a winter project, but I'll see what I can find out for you. It's a Fuller Road Ranger, with a different shift pattern. Also,don't know the configuration of the engine/transmission, but that too is probably in the owners manual. I'll see what I can do on both.

I've about given up any idea of raising the roof. That looks to be a MAJOR overhaul. There's a lot of steel at the transition line between roof and sidewall, and the weight could be prohibitive without a crane or such. As someone said, the thing is built like a tank.

Nice to know I'm not the only "crowner" around.
Steve 80 Crown Atomic (152.163.204.189)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 8:47 am:   

I'm still considering replacing the roof. I want a flatter roof than what Crown built, and an extra 8 inches height would give me a lot more interior space.

Yes, there is a lot of structural steel in my roof, (that massive roll-cage, who builds a bus to do a 360 roll over and then drive off?) but it isn't much of an engineering challenge, just a lot of cutting and welding.

I figure I'd build the new 40ft roof framework into eight 5-ft sections first. Then cut holes through the original roof skin/frame where the new roof section will fit, and weld it to the bus body. The old roof would remain in place until the new roof framework had been completely welded to the bus body, to provide structural integrity and avoid any improper stress loadings.

Still just a thought, though.

You might try cutting down the wheel wells on your bus. Some of the transit guys have done it, and it would give you nice flat floors for your interior design.

Steve
jdexsquid (216.175.67.90)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 9:12 pm:   

RC, now I have a couple of minutes to type...didn't have that last night! My bus is actually a 68, not a 69. It's a 35 foot single axle school bus with the Cummins 220 midship engine with a E/F 5-Speed. The rear end ratio is 4.63 so top speed is about 60 mph. I parted out a 72 Crown tandem with a raised roof in progress. I wish I could have rebuilt the bus, but it was too far gone (no windows and left out to the elements). Raising the roof looked simple and straightforward with the exception of the front and rear caps, of course! You can see some raised roof crowns that have solved this problem at http://members.tripod.com/crowncoach/photos.htm
I actually had some other pics in mind. If Buskid is out there, do you still have the pics of the silver crowns at San Marcos RV Repair? Those pics would give you a good idea of what the bus will look like afterward. I personally am not going to raise the roof. I kind of like the looks of the bus just the way it is. Besides, I'm way too deep into the conversion to start raising roofs now. Hopefully I'll be posting pics soon. I've been telling Doug this for a while (dougthebonifiedbusnut)!

Jim
The Buskid (205.188.197.151)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 9:44 pm:   

Hi Jim

I still have those pictures, I just took them down off of my web page because the owner of the two buses was really mean to me the last time I saw him. The other Crown conversions I have posted on my web page (http://www.crownbus.com) are of ones without a roof raise - although I have a picture of one that had the last 5 feet of it chopped off!

I can re-scan the pictures of the San Marcos ones and e-mail them to you if you'd like. Just let me know.

BTW - My Crown is a 1969 that's just like yours, except I have the 671 Detroit Diesel instead of the Cummins 220. The last two Crowns I had came with the Cummins Diesels in them, though. What district did yours come out of?

Looking forward to seeing pictures! :)
jdexsquid (216.175.67.90)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 10:20 pm:   

Hey Buskid! I have no idea what district it came from. It had already been converted (sort of) when I found it in New Orleans. It was kind of rough and the engine was locked up. It's going to need a lot of TLC, but the old girl has a heart of gold and has safely delivered me from GA to PA and back, as well as to FL in the summer. I'll be putting in 29x54 tinted sliders as soon as I get the galvanized steel to cover the window area. Last owner put regular steel in and it's rusting. So much to do, so little time!

The VIN of the bus is 35458, or maybe it's the serial number. What can you make out from that number? I'd be interested to know.

Thanks,
Jim
R C Bishop (128.123.88.4)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 11:27 pm:   

Hey, Jim.....Thanx for the additional sites. Enjoyed all the pics, but saw nothing like our Highway Crown. I agree about raisn' the roof. It's not an engineering problem. Just not a logistical situation without a crane, or BIG lifting device.

Galey has a concept that might be cool for an Eagle, but the additional Steel down the transition line at the roof is too much for 4 tire jacks.....I was in the Structural Steel Fabrication business....I wouldn't chance it.

Think I'll pass unless I find something I have just flat overlooked. The sheet and window mullions are no problem. I think the corners could be a nightmare.

You understand I am talking about doing this on my own. Maybe somebody has some great input that will change my mind, but doing it in pieces is impractical for this ole' kid.
RC Bishop (128.123.88.4)

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Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2001 - 11:32 pm:   

Steve, the wheel wells are just three inches from the wheels.....no chance that I can see in lowering them. Wouldn't chance it, but I got an idea or two off the pics on the tripod.com address on the message above.

Thanx for the comments. RCB
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.46)

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Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2001 - 7:10 pm:   

Jim...,how are you going to handle the plumbing in your Crown? Do your wheel wells rise above the floor about 6 inches? With a three inch drain for the commode, the midships engine maze leaves very few places to consider. I'm looking for ideas, besides the sleeping area!
jdexsquid (216.175.68.225)

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Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2001 - 7:09 pm:   

It was hard for me, too. My mind kept saying "must have BIG TANKS" but the available space didn't agree. I first moved the air filter into the engine bay which freed up a tremendous amount of room. The filter has it's own housing and takes in cool, fresh air from the side. I then built and mounted a 35 gallon black tank just in front of the driver's rear tire. If you look you will see a support hanging down from the frame on the rear of the stock breather box. I kept this piece of steel intact to help hang the tank since I will have separate tanks. If you cut this out you'd have room enough to put over 100 gallons, if you were to go with a 1 tank setup. I'm not touching the wheel wells at all. I'll actually build the floor up at the back to accommodate them. My sink should go over the rear driver's and a wardrobe should take up the other side. That's the plan, anyway. Always subject to change! Email me direct and we'll talk in more detail.

Jim
gerritt (24.163.190.122)

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Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2001 - 7:30 am:   

Haven't had much time to spend on typing or the conversion project. Many things are still in the mental development stage. But I was thinking of a false bottom in the trunk for tanks. Has anyone put a trailer hitch on? I have a 66 tandem.

Gerritt
FAST FRED (63.208.81.158)

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Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 5:33 am:   

TANKS ,
On my conversion I decided I would not loose a single inch of bay space to carry BLACK water around!

The solution was two 55G tanks , mounted to the floor.

With a low style toilet , one simply is sitting ON the top of the tank ,

The FW tank is on the floor in same position on other side of coach.

Both are 11 in high.

If you build your own cabinets this simple system lets you keep the tanks inside , where it's easy to keep warm in freezing weather, no need to heat un insulated bays forever.

The dump hose {Dupree valve & hose} does require a
"gas fill " style hinged cut out in the coach , and after hooking the hose , a trip inside is required to pull the dump valve ,
a small price not to have to worry about frozen pipes or give any bay space away.

Purchased 55G plastic tanks are UPS able, and were about $150 each.

FAST FRED
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.18)

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Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2001 - 10:20 pm:   

FF, in regard your posting above, I agree enthusiastically with your premise, BUT>>>>>how high is the stool you used on the "top " of your tank? I've only seen 12.5 inches height (minimum) in low profile commodes..that would be near 23 inches from floor height...haven't measured my wife's legs from bottom of foot to knee bend, but doubt it is 23 inches. Touche!

Thanx in advance.
RCB
FAST FRED (209.26.87.38)

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Posted on Monday, December 03, 2001 - 5:54 am:   

Haven't measured the throne hight , but its a Sealand RV porcelin and a foot sounds about right.

Mine is NOT the lowest made but works fine.

The bride is 5 ft and 100 lbs so has no problem with steping up on the tank base to access the throne.

For boys the hight is great ,
very little distance to judge ,
so aiming at a mooving target as the bus zips down the road is EZ.

Good view out the window , while seated.


Come on over to Jacks 50 bus new years bash in Arcadia FL , and for 5c you can give it a try!

Your bride is welcome too.

FAST FRED
R C Bishop (128.123.88.17)

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Posted on Monday, December 03, 2001 - 10:26 pm:   

AW'RIGHT, PFHRED>>>>>>knew you'd have THE answer!!! Love it!! Laughed a mile or two.

Why didn't you build her a step? 11 inches...that's a BIG reach for a li'l short legged gal.... and when YOU'RE there, better tell her to keep a tight wheel! I can see it now!!!

Wish I could make it to FL, It would probably be worth the trip just for a demo> Thanx for the invite!. (Don't hold your breath, NM is GREAT in January!) I'll take a raincheck, tho.

Bride is presently in LA with new grandkid. I'll pass it on to her....who knows?

And when you're on your way west, I'm roughly at the intersection of I-10 and I-25.. We'll cook up some Burritos and Frijoles!Maybe include some local Jalepenos.

Maybe I should have repfrased my question....
God Bless
RCB
RC Bishop (128.123.88.17)

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Posted on Monday, December 03, 2001 - 10:28 pm:   

FF, BTW, Who makes the "shorter" version you referred to? I've not seen any.
RCB
FAST FRED (209.26.87.31)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 5:56 am:   

Sealand has two hights in their catalog.

IT is ALWAYS better to contact the mfg direct, for anything!!!
than rely on a resellers catalog.

The reseller doesnt post alt methods or warnings , the mfg. does.

I posted my reply yesterday at the usual 5 am , with out consulting da bride.

She says that the throne seat is below her butt hight so its easy to start to sit ,
and just boost up onto the seat using the tank top, to push on.

Your going to miss the most innovative shower in all bussdom too , by not visiting.

Where we live in FL , great burritos ect are the rule , just dont holler

Immigratsion!!!

in a the resturant!

FAST FRED
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.34)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2001 - 8:02 pm:   

With all the innovative design, apparatus, theories and imaginative prowess, one would think you'd have a digital camera to share what must be a HUGE smile on your face when you send some of those tidbits of wisdom ...and so forth.

The more I think about it, the more I wish I could check out DA BUS. Florida Burritos?..Alligator "Beef"?

BTW, thanx for the words about checking the MFGR first. Good idea. I had pretty well decided on a Sealand but was hoping for a double low profile.

So then, did you run your three inch exit line directly thru the floor or do you merge with other lines above floor level? I'm with you on wasting space with black water. I've got a bunch of room in the rear bay. (enough for a bunk bed system). But that is another conversation altogether.

Keep on keepin' on and here's to your bride. Bet she has some real triceps>>

Thanx for the trip.
God Bless,
RCB
FAST FRED (209.26.87.93)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 5:42 am:   

No here in Fl the Burritos are made from sea cows ,
the "Sainted Manatee".

And the Fahitas are from"Chockaloskie Chicken",
Egrits, or Flamingos , both taste just like chicken!!


The only pipes I use connect to the tank, as a 50 gal tank is almost 5 ft long , the tank goes from the toilet area to the galley area.

Under the galley sink is a garbage disposer that is great for stinky stuff , shrimp cleaning or cantalope , smells after overnite.

The tank lays on the floor , secured with outside ply walls and 1 1/2 alluminum angle screwed to stock floor.

There are no pipes that go below the floors , into unheated and precious bay space.

The dump is a Dupree {worth the $$$] and is reachable from the toilet area.

The dump outlet is cut into the coach side , and a hinges lockable door covers the dump access.

Yes, with this set up its a 2 step job to dump.

Go outside and unlock waste door , remove safty cap , install dump hose.

Then from inside pull the dump valve.

With a long flat tank its a while before the last trickle of everything is gone , but if the tank is 3/4 full as it should be , there are no "stranded soldiers" .

I have a 2in. thru the roof vent , and only use septic starter as helper.

There is no odor , and I have never had to use a bag of ice , and driving , to bust soldiers up.

I think the 5 ft of free surface does it automatically, a danger in deep tanks .

Water from the toilet sink is gravity to the tank
, water from the shower is lifted with a bilge pump to the toilet sink .

This makes winterizing a simple task of pouring antifreez {drinkable to save the toilet bacteria} into the shower drain , pumping till dry , which fills the J trap under toilet sink , and then overflow drains into tank.

Galley sink is winterized with a bit of antifreez to fill J trap after G disposal.

FAST FRED
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.35)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 7:40 pm:   

Excellent description. I think I got it. Interesting layout. So you make do with one waste tank? Standard tank or did you make it? Does your shower penetrate the floor at all, even the trap?

The head room I have at the CENTER of the coach is only 73" (we're short folks...that's all right, we have fuun) The alternative I see is to cut the floor out and lower the pan, but the more I think about that I'm not sure I want to do it for a variety of reasons, including bay space.

Looking forward to finding out more about the Chockaloskie Chicken.....must be quite a first time experience. How does one serve that....? Wonder how it would go with Frijoles? In the pink, as it were.... Thanx Pfhred. God Bless.
RCB
FAST FRED (209.26.87.29)

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Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 6:01 am:   

The waste tank is both black and grey.

Its a standard size from a rorocast place , is light and UPS shipable .
Fittings are spun in at factory at almost no cost.

The shower pan is a cheapo 32X32 from HD that is large enough for us.

The $10. bilge pump is in a stainless well , that IS cut into the floor.

But its only a 3 in depression so does not eat any bay space.

The walls are painted ply , SS will come , when I find the right scrap yard.

I am 5-11 and have no hassle taking a shower.

The marine hot water heater is above the tank , outboard , and the very short runs to the galley sink or toilet sink/ shower head keep from wasting water.

The marine unit has 3 virtues,

Built for vehicle use,

has safty that saves heating element if juice is on with unit empty,

has hot water coil , so if I ever find a Honda water cooled unit ,
hot water will be unlimited, at no cost to the electric supply.

FAST FRED
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.15)

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Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2001 - 10:32 pm:   

Hey! FF, so if I read it right, your showerpan is flush, the drain, including trap, is only three inches below floor level and the pump is mounted there as well? Your plumbing must all be on the same side of the bus?? Think I read somewhere, on this or another board, where you described the situation, but can't locate it. Time is precious at my age......

Not up to speed on the Honda water cooled....What?
Akin to a Webasto? "Splain, pleeze....Remember, I'm in the third world...we do things different. No boats on the desert.

In time, in time, it'll all come to me like a bolt! (I think you're right, I need to make a trip,... just can't quite imagine those burritos you describe. Manatee....that must be the all day, chewy kind. ) KTF

RCB
FAST FRED (209.26.87.24)

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Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 5:18 am:   

Honda makes a great RV gen set that is either gas or propane, and water cooled.

About $2200 if you buy it right, new.

Very easy to get quiet , and the propane lasts as long as the diesel , with out winter start problems , or ever gunking carb like gas jobs.

The shower has NO J trap , the sink it emptys in to has the trap.

A J trap is to prevent sewer gasses from smelling the coach up.

So a bit of water in my shower would fall to the floor,
run to the center of the pan and drain into a SS bowl , like a dog bowl.

In the dog bowl is a 12v PAR bilge pump{the size of a soup can}.

The discharge hose is connected to a fitting on the bathroom sink.

So when the shower is on , the drain pump gets turned on.

water draining into the lav sink , does go thru the sink J trap, so there is no arroma.

FAST FRED
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.6)

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Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 10:26 pm:   

Got the picture.....but....poor dog!

Man, you are something at this CE. I thought I was an innovator, but you have me absolutely outclassed...having said that, I had considered a regular small water pump for such a possibility. I have one in a tile cutter (Little Giant by name, that is about the size of a couple of D cell batteries, no more that 2x2x2. Moves lots of water. Just wasn't real sure how to go about a collector. What size line then does it use to the sink drain? Sorta like a dishwasher hose?

You have flat saved a WHOLE bunch of plumbing..and freeze problems as I see it....if all is on one side of the bus. ( In my situation, it would have to go under the floor or over the top if it was on both sides.

I've seen the Honda propane unit and agree with you about it.. rather than a diesel or gas. Do you, then, intend to run your genset to generate ALL your hot water, or just supplement? Seems to me one would have to coil INSIDE a tank to make it very effective.

Looks like you and I are the only ones involved in the subject. Not a very active board, right here, but that's OK. Thanx for the CONTINUED input. Have a good weekend and freeze one of those burrito Flamingos.....I would like to show it to some of our NATIVE AMERICANS, here in the Land of Enchantment. Ever been to Puerto Penasco?
God Bless,
RCB
jdexsquid (216.175.64.78)

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Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2001 - 6:58 pm:   

Believe me, there's a LOT of people reading these messages. I've been able to find a lot of very good tips and I really appreciate the board and all of you who contribute. I will be building my grey tank soon enough, well, after I finish putting in these big sliders. RC, how's that highway Crown coming along?
spokes (129.37.228.76)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 7:31 pm:   

Howdy,
Family and I are stuck in Flagstaff with no heater. We have a 68 Crown Supercoach.In the compartment behind the entrance door I noticed a sticker that reads heater shut off. There is no valve. I see a T fitting that has been plugged on one side, but the plug doesn't look removeable. I can't find any other valves. Any help would be very much appreciated. It's really cold up here right now. Tryin to get back to Cali.
Spokes and Family
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.3)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 7:52 pm:   

Spokes...My 1964 Crown Highway Coach has all heater controls on driver side panel or for the front heaters, in the front by the driver right knee. What you described doesn't jibe at all. Do you carry your manual with you?

My bus came from Flagstaff...NAU. Might go over to the garage at NAU and ask Ray Floyd or Paul Breen if they have any ideas.
Best wishes for a speedy trip south!
RCB
jdexsquid (216.175.73.29)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2001 - 10:57 pm:   

If it's the valve I'm thinking of, it is indeed the shutoff valve to the heater core. It's in a compartment in the stairway, just behind the door (I don't know about others, but my door opens to the inside)I parted one of these out and was able to get a good look at the front of the core and associated piping. Does your bus have a second heater in the back? Also, I also have a 68. The labels on my heater controls are worn off. Would you please tell me what the controls are? I haven't needed the heater yet, but the day is coming! Stay warm and I hope this helps!
spokes (32.101.237.64)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2001 - 12:21 am:   

The labels on mine are also worn off, except for the second from the top. It is the defroster.The shutoff valve has been removed for some reason, hopefully not due to a bad core and the rear heater lines have been capped. I guess the heaters weren't needed in SoCal, as it doesn't get that cold. Well, it is very cold here in Flagstaff. At least the bus came with chains.

The bus has been pouring out alot of white smoke, the heads have been knocking up the grades and on startup, and she's running really cold. Any of you had this problem. I am kinda worried about her making it home, but I'm short on funds for any major repairs. Any ideas?
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.18)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2001 - 9:45 pm:   

Did you go to the NAU Garage? They can PROBABLY help. nice folks.... mine smokes white too on startup, and have addressed the problem on the MAK board. A couple or three good answers. Best wishes. RCB
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.18)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2001 - 9:55 pm:   

NO<NO<NO< NO......This board under "THE BOARD" .....I posted the White Smoke question, just scroll down, you'' find it.
Sorry 'bout that, Ian....and Spokes.

RCB
jdexsquid (216.175.71.82)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 12, 2001 - 10:17 pm:   

The knocking sound doesn't sound very healthy. Mine smokes a touch at startup, but quickly clears up. Have you shut the radiator vents? Mine were faulty, so I bypassed them and adjusted them full open for the summer. I probably need to shut them for the winter. What's the temp after 30 minutes of driving? Do you still have good power on the hills?

Jim
RCBISHOP (128.123.88.28)

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Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2001 - 7:39 pm:   

Jim...Tell me more about the radiator vents..

I have been working passenger side window area. Took out two and "re manufactured" two others. Making smaller in the back (bedroom) area and in the dining area. Paneled about 13 feet for the bath, shower, washer area.

SO..haven't done much traveling but did start a time or two in the last two months. Smoked (white)like the dickens until it warmed. I addressed that under THE BOARD and got some good information, but nada about the radiator that I recall.

RCB
spokes (12.72.22.22)

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Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 2:47 am:   

Thanks you guys for your help, We made it back to California we were not able to get the heater fixed though. I was not able to reach the guys at NAU. She is still running really cold the entire time, I think that the thermostat is out. She has some power up the hills, but you have to downshift to fourth on the really big hills. We are about to take a trip to Louisiana and I want to get her running as best as possible on limited funds. I have never done much work on diesels, and I do not have a manual, do you guys know where to get one? Thanks.
Spokes
R.C.Bishop (128.123.88.26)

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Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 10:04 pm:   

Spokes....try West Coach. Maybe not, but they are worth a try. 800 929 2258. Ask for Chuck. They are in Chino, as I recall. Also, RJ Long may pick up on this and have an idea or two. Glad you made it home safely.

RCB

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