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Wayne Buttress (66.82.9.66)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 2:17 pm:   

Hi Guys,
My last post stated My engine would start but not stay running for more than a minute or so. I found a open water heater line from when we removed tne Bus A/C unit, which I fixed.
Now the I press the starter switch and get nothing. Also, the transmission dynastic light is on along with thhe low voltage light. Battery's are charged, fuel filters have been changed.
Any help will be appreciated.
Wayne
TWO DOGS (4.227.118.158)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 2:59 pm:   

you need to stop working on it....get a mechanic
Bob Wood (66.208.220.113)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 3:26 pm:   

Wayne, if the bus has been sitting for a long time, remove all the connectors from the DDEC and clean, also remove the two connectors from the ATEC, located on the forward wall of the forward bay, and clean. This may take care of your problem, but the low bus volts are somewhat of a concern. What does the voltage read when checked at the forward electrical panel? Should be 12.5VDC. If it's reading 10VDC or less, this isn't good, and can give the electronics all sorts of faults. Typically, the Trans fault will not inhibit the bus from starting. An Engine fault WILL.
Bob/Eagle 20 5524.
augerdogger (216.84.70.82)

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Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 7:09 pm:   

Wayne,

Sounds familiar to problems with my '93 Prevost. First problem was the battery equalizer was belly up and one pair of coach batteries were almost 15 volts while the pair used to operate 12 volt options was down to 11 volts, resulting in low battery voltage warning from ATEC and DDEC. Rebuilt battery equalizer solved the problem.

Next check for voltage to DDEC. I went to leave on vacation and engine would turn over but wouldn't start, then started and died. Finally found that vibration and corrosion had broken the connection between wiring eye on a feed through and wire suppyling 12 volts to DDEC computer. Replaced wiring eye and feed through to computer which solved the problem.

bill
Wayne Buttress (66.82.9.15)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 2:12 pm:   

The problem turned out to be an easy fix. The engine shutdown was caused by an open water heater line. The autoshutdown sensed no pressure in the coolent system.
The engine starter not working was due to a switch in the engine compartment that allows you to control starting from the rear of the bus. The switch was in the wrong position.
Thanks for all the advice it helped me think thru the problems.
Wayne
Wayne Buttress (66.82.9.15)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 2:14 pm:   

TwoDogs,
Thanks for nothing.
Wayne
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20) (24.175.221.41)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 4:34 pm:   

Wayne, I am curious to know if you noticed the engine light on when it performed the shutdown? Also, if I remember correctly, the next time you get a shutdown like that you may can engage the diagnostic switch for the ddec and read the flash code. This may tell you the problem next time. I think you also have to do this just after the shutdown and before turning off the master switch. Just a thought that might help in the event that a similar situation arises.
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.212.177)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 4:45 pm:   

Wayne: Do you mean low coolant level rather than an open heater line valve? I was not aware that it senses pressure but merely coolant level in the surge tank.
Wayne Buttress (66.82.9.92)

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Posted on Saturday, August 21, 2004 - 6:28 pm:   

Greg, I didn't notice the engine light when the engine shutdown. Someplace in the back of my ole brain I remember the diagnostic switch would have given me the code. Didn't think to check it at the time. Thanks for the tip.

James, I had an open heater line which allowed coolant to escape. i.e., no coolant in the surge tank, where the senser is.
Thanks again for the responses, Wayne
Ace (24.28.44.58)

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Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 8:31 am:   

Yep that will sure do it! I have a small leak in water pump while it sits and it slowly empties the surge tank and when that happens NO RUN what so ever, but fill it up and it kicks right off and runs fine. Sure need to replace that pump soon! :)
Oh and the check engine light comes on as soon as you turn the key and then the STOP engine light comes on when it fires and then well you know what happens then! SHUTS DOWN IMMEDIATLY!

At least it tells me the sensor is working fine!

Ace

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