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cgoodwin (208.12.29.127)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 12:17 pm:   

Here in Seattle we have just had several days of torrential rains and I have discovered several small leaks in the roof of my Neoplan Cityliner, a good thing as I am just about to lay down Teak & Holly marine flooring at $150 a sheet!

I climbed out on the roof and can see that it has been painted with SnowSeal or some similar RV type sealant. What is the best sealant????

Chris
John that newguy (199.232.244.215)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 12:35 pm:   

I'd make sure you use whatever's compatible with whatever's already
on it. Some of the rubberized compounds will peel from a silicone
based product after a few weeks of looking like it'd never peel.
(and..vice-versa, of cuz)

If you can manage to locate the exact area of the leak, you might
be better off just addressing that one spot, rather than totally
re-coating the roof. A product called "Kool-Seal" may work
for you. It looks like "marshmallow fluff" but doesn't taste as
good, even with chocolate syrup. But it does manage to stick
and seal most anything. They make it for rubber roofs and for
the more common silicone types. I'd get a small can of each type
and give it an experiment.
TWO DOGS (63.156.216.23)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 12:57 pm:   

yeah...what the newguy said...(BUT)...get a scraper & remove everything loose first,then,wire brush it & blow all crap off & I even clean real good with windex ....then put that kool-seal on...
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.17)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 1:21 pm:   

Yeah... what 2 Dogs said...( What am I saying? )

I used silicone under KoolSeal and the seal was permanent. If it is a seam leak, get the cloth to seal the seam and lay it over the seam, saturate it with KoolSeal. You will probably apply 3 or 4 times to make it a solid smooth seal but the seal will be flexible and never leak there again.

If you have an open seam then you might try this stuff... (copy from GMCnet)
Dupont Ultrapro Urethane
Seam Sealer. This is a paintable sealer. This is the sealer that the pros use when painting
... Of course read the label for types of applications.

Another offering is (Copied from GMCnet)
on the roof and on the top of the side rails is
C-10.
Great stuff when you learn how to use it. It is a self leveling caulk---that means it runs down into
cracks. You cant use it on the sidewalls. You put the stuff on then go back and check it after about 4 hours. You will see cracks in it---fill them in. Next day check it again.
If there are any cracks fill them in. I used it on my roof to seal the fore and aft seams and all down the side rails. My coach sit out 24/7. In the 4 years it has been on I have only had one leak. After a 100 degree day we had a big rain and I had a leak over the stove. Went up on top and found two cracks in the caulk---filled them
in---that was 3 years ago and no more leaks since then

"the dreams of man can be a fond whim,
or the attraction to a bus conversion"
cd
TWO DOGS (63.156.216.42)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 4:50 pm:   

or..............


Building a house inside a bus

I kinda like building a ship inside a bottle
CoryDane RTSII (66.155.188.4)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 5:56 pm:   

or.........


But then, how would you sail the ship?
FishbowlBrian (Fishbowlbrian) (67.165.212.171)

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Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 11:42 pm:   

If you need to seal a joint, butyl-based sealants are what I'd use on metal-to-metal connections (or metal-to-anything-else). It's used on flashings of all sorts in the construction industry, and stays pliable almost indefinitely. Silcones really can't touch it for a long-lasting, flexible joint on metal.

You can find buytl rubber sealant in tubes at any home improvement or hardware store. Watch out when using it, because it's tenacity as a sealant makes it a stringy mess that hardly comes off of anything... including you.

HTH,
FBB
John that newguy (199.232.244.175)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 8:05 am:   

Black butyl? That's what the use on RV windows!

A few months after it's been applied, it leaves nice black streaks on the
side of the unit every time it rains. But you can use "black streak remover"
for that, when it stops raining.

For what it's worth, they make that black butyl in white also, called
white butyl - and it leaves white streaks.

Strange as it seems, the white streaks from white butyl can be removed
using "black streak remover".


(does your head hurt? my head hurts!)
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (68.250.175.218)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 10:30 am:   

Again.

3M5200

Or Sikaflex if it's easy to get.

IMO Butyl is for installing windshields and little else.

Gary
FishbowlBrian (Fishbowlbrian) (67.165.212.171)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 1:15 pm:   

John, it was my understanding that he was going to seal the portion of the roof after repairing the leak. The sealant I'm referring to comes in white or aluminum grey and I have no idea if it would streak, but would seal or paint over it regardless.
Here's the stuff

--OR this

Gary, I don't believe 3M's 5200 product info mentions it being used for metal. Only wood and fiberglass.

Likewise, Sikaflex is polyurethane-based stuff, and its tensile strength of 200psi or so can't match the 1200psi for butyl-based products to combat expansion and contraction. I'm not saying it's not used for metal-to-metal, I just don't think it's the superior product for his application, but we can agree to disagree.

I still stand by butyl as being the best product for metal to metal, unless someone can point out a link to something definative. It's certainly not the easiest stuff to apply, but it won't leak.

Here's a quick read for a run down on the different caulks, even some of the newer hybrids, and their properties:

My $0.02,
FBB
TWO DOGS (63.185.64.2)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 1:41 pm:   

Did ya' hear about that guy that didn't know the difference between BUTYL & VASEALINE....his windshield fell out
John that newguy (199.232.240.238)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 2:00 pm:   

But I'll bet he's really stuck on his girlfriend......


(did I type that?)
ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (69.3.74.36)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 2:27 pm:   

What Two Dogs really wants to say, but just can't bring it upon himself to start another firestorm, is:

...put brake fluid on it. ;)
TWO DOGS (63.185.65.239)

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Posted on Saturday, August 28, 2004 - 7:41 pm:   

I tryed that damn mop & glow...who wants brown tires...I will always use brake fluid from now on
cgoodwin (208.12.26.143)

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Posted on Sunday, August 29, 2004 - 11:03 pm:   

What I would really like is to somehow remove the KoolSeal or whatever is all over my roof and just repair the leaks whilst still having a nice shiny painted roof. Seems to me that if I just recoat the KoolSeal, I will be doing it over and over like my old stick and staple job which had a good 1/2 inch on the roof and had to be redone every year!

Has anyone stripped KoolSeal? Any idea how to go about it and what to use to seal the seams without having it look like a mess?

Chris

PS. I tried brake fluid but it just leaked through, discolored the paint and disloved my rubber. I bet it would do a fine job of removing the KoolSeal though.
brake fluid user (65.40.180.178)

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Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 1:00 am:   

...I did a test on one of my tires...

WEEKS have gone by and it still looks EXCELLENT!

Thanks for the tip, 2 dawgs

mark
75 gillig 636D
John TheInquiringMindGuy (199.232.244.238)

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Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 7:38 am:   

(wonder why brake fluid doesn't dissolve the rubber in the brake cylinders)

Hey TD.... Does ya' do the treads too, or just the sidewalls?
John that newguy (199.232.244.238)

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Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 7:57 am:   

The only way I found to remove a layer of KoolSeal was a hot knife.
It's a painstaking process and not without hazards. If there's a solvent
for it, using it on such a large, thick area as you describe would be
expensive and unhealthy; it would likely require hundreds of gallons
of solvent. If it is possible to score a length, lift up a section and use
a small amount of solvent to help lift more, it would be better than
attempting to dissolve it as a mass.

I have never witnessed a leaky bus roof. I would imagine that if it
leaked so bad, that the former owner used KoolSeal for a "fix", it
may be better to learn to live with it. KoolSeal is to a roof, what
a can of STP is to a weak set of rings.

You asked what you can use to fix the leaks? Use the same stuff
that's on it, or do a test to see what will stick to it. There are
more brands of sealant that won't stick to each other, than there
are brands of sealant.
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (209.128.79.46)

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Posted on Monday, August 30, 2004 - 9:57 am:   

Hey Brian,

"Gary, I don't believe 3M's 5200 product info mentions it being used for metal. Only wood and fiberglass."

Check Again:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?oooooo
8vG_CoI6Poa6PoooDhn&JQ37cJ-

I have been using 5200 as a sealant both above and below the waterline for several years, we commonly use it as a sealant/bedding for all sorts of things, including thru-hull applications. Oh, I should mention, all my boats are steel.

If this isn't good enough, clamp a couple of pieces of sheetmetal together with 5200 in the middle, try to bull them apart after a couple of days.

Also, every metal joint on the bus is sealed with 5200 as well.

I worked with Butyl installing windwhields in Monacos many years ago, and I hate the stuff. When I have my windshileds redone in my bird, I will pay someone to do it.

I don't know what Bluebird used as seam sealer fromt he factory, but I can tell you after 20years, it is no longer sealant, but a hard cracked putty with no adhesion left.

I have turned a couple of car guy on to 5200 as well, and they now use it for all of their seam sealers, with the exception of concours restorations.

Gary
FishbowlBrian (Fishbowlbrian) (67.165.212.171)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 2:35 am:   

Gary, for some reason the link didn't come through.

But, if you've used it for metal to metal, on boats no less, than I'd think it would be a fine product to recommend for a less-demanding application like a roof. I just couldn't find anything about that in the specs., but sometimes nothing beats actual experience.

I'd love to use it instead of butyl, because that stuff truly sucks.

I stand corrected.

Please re-send the link, if you can find it again.

FBB
TWO DOGS (63.185.73.195)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 8:46 am:   

here goes...brake fluid is the best for tires,I only put it on the sidewalls,simple job,get a tuna fish can ,fill with brake fluid,get 1" paint brush , it does 3 24.5 tires in 15 minutes,re-fill tuna fish can,do the other side....onlly drawback...smell of tuna fish reminds me of when I was married................ :)
John that tunaguy (199.232.240.137)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 10:31 am:   

The smell of Tuna can put the brakes on anything, but once past
the smell, you got it




NO. I can't do this. I can't. I refuse to type more.


You are a BAAAAD influence, TD. B-A-D. !
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (209.128.79.46)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 31, 2004 - 11:30 am:   

"Please re-send the link, if you can find it again."

It's the same link you posted, but look further down, on tech sheets.

They list aluminum and stainless, because when you are bonding to Ferrous steel (Ok I know it's all ferrous), you are really bonding to the paint.

Gary
bowlingshoegiverouter (65.179.200.140)

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Posted on Wednesday, September 01, 2004 - 12:17 am:   

DEAR brake fluid user....yeah...looks o.k......but the real reason you are putting it on there is for longer life of the tire
cgoodwin (208.12.29.127)

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Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 3:04 pm:   

If it smells like tuna you better wash it!
TWO DOGS (63.185.81.147)

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Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 3:52 pm:   

Took her to a car wash last week....
Niles (24.227.105.115)

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Posted on Thursday, September 02, 2004 - 4:12 pm:   

Hope you sprung for the hot wax ........
Ron (66.52.198.198)

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Posted on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 - 2:27 pm:   

Well, there's always sprayed on pickup bed-liner like Rhino Flex. It even comes in colors, and it's flexible, so it shouldn't crack and leak.
Marc Bourget (209.142.38.81)

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Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2004 - 1:12 pm:   

Will Butyl sealant, which I understand is paint grade (???) will painting it prevent the streaking?

O & U

Marc

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