| Author |
Message |
dougthebonifiedbusnut (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 8:22 pm: | |
I have installed backing plates behind all of the holes now I will be applying Bondo to smooth out the effected areas. Trouble is I know nothing about bodywork so here is my question, I live in the notheast 32 miles west of Boston so the winters are brutle. Will the exposed bondo weather all right or should I put some sort of paint on it for thew winter. Or will primer do the trick.Also is there any kind of cleaner or something I should use before I apply the new bondo over the old bondo to make it adhere better. As always thanks in advance |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 8:28 pm: | |
I would certainly prime them, I am using a PPG product called Omni.
It's a low cost Epoxy, good for everything, the deal is if you prime with Epoxy, you can put anything on it. If you use a hardware, rust-Oleum type, when you go to paint you'll have t take it all down to bare metal.
You can even apply it with a roller.
Gary |
TWO DOGS (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 9:18 pm: | |
the area you are going to appy bondo,needs to be roughed-up,preferablly with a 24 grit disc...unpainted bondo will absorb moisture...regular primer will absorb moisture...I use spray can paint for a temp. protectant...it will need to be roughed-up with 120 grit sandpaper before the final color is applied.. |
Marc (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 9:19 pm: | |
Just a brief comment.
Doug, if he doesn't want to apply a coat of paint will want to use a primer that actually seals.
Historically, most primers didn't seal and required a coating of paint to actually protect the bodywork.
I don't know about epoxy sealers but, whatever you use, check this factor out!
Onward and Upward |
ralph7 (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 9:23 pm: | |
Bondo and any normal primer will absorb moisture. Suggest you use the epoxy and remember do not use when it's to cool. I'm in Pa. and it's not bondo or paint time without heat. |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 9:30 pm: | |
that another reason why I recommended the Omni, it's Epoxy and will not absorb water.
You will still have to sand before repainting, but just a scuff job.
Gary |
jim wilke (Pd41044039)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 9:53 am: | |
Bondo and similar putty made with polyester resin WILL SHRINK as time goes by. That's why a car that was repaired perfectly looks lumpy & wavy after a couple of years. If you want a smooth, stable repair that won't get wavy, you need to use epoxy based filler. A little more expensive but worth it.
Jim-Bob |
TWO DOGS (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 10:25 am: | |
sorry...you are wrong jim-bob...the reason it is lumpy looking is because the bodyman wasn't any good..bondo does not shrink...it was lumpy when he finished,you just didn't notice |
jim wilke (Pd41044039)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 5:11 pm: | |
Mr. Dogs,
I respectfully disagree with you. (Which may be more respect than you should get!)
Polyester resin shrinks! Period.
Go ask any manufacturer of fiberglass anything. As the VOCs, etc leave, there is shrinkage. It doesn't shrink noticeably in a week or month but given a couple of years it does.
It also is water permeable, which is why some boats get osmotic blisters in the bottom. To repair it they grind it down & put epoxy on, then paint. (Your bus won't blister unless it is submerged for several years, but then it won't matter!)
Epoxy is used by high end builders because it is WAY stronger and not subject the above shortcomings. But it is more expensive. But a bus conversion is a lot like a yacht and the material is probably a lot cheaper than the labor.
Jim-Bob |
TWO DOGS (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 5:30 pm: | |
it's o.k. to disagree with me jimmy joe bob |
TWO DOGS (Unregistered Guest)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2004 - 5:53 pm: | |
but you are still wrong...if it's lumpy behind your bondo job...you have new rust back there |
Larry Bennet (Eurof3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 2:21 am: | |
Bondo is a wonderful thing. Well you know, Sure holds a lot of stuff in place.
I once used it to put a corvette back end on a Trans Am about 9 years ago.On our "Vetta" We choped the top off made it into a convertable show prototype car.
But the bondo did shrink and crack and bubble even on the part that was just plastic/fiberglass from the vette. No metal under it to rust. Took a couple 3 years to show up. Nothing to really worry about though. Just put it on smooth, and save a lot of sanding work. PPG Omni is an A+
Epoxy is good too.
We use them all. With epoxy I make a masking tape patch and put the epoxy on the patch and tape it on. Pull the tape when set up for a smooth finish and not much to finalize.
Best of luck.
Larry |
Bob Oakman (Bobsbus)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 12:04 pm: | |
I used that fiberglass stuff with the glass fibers right in it to do the bulk of the filling. Its much harder and stronger, resisting against movement from the inevitable rust in the future. Then I used bondo to do the final smoothing. That fiberglass stuff is a pain to mix though... and applying it before it hardens is also a challenge. Thankfully, I had a body man helping me out. |
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 3:08 pm: | |
"that fiberglass stuff with the glass fibers right in it"
the slang term for which is called "Kitty Hair".
gary |