| Author | Message | ||
| John Rigbyj
Rating: |
Changing a 4106 which brake chambers should you use, 30/30 or 24/24?? How about the tyre clearence?? | ||
| TWO DOGS Rating: N/A |
talk to LUKE | ||
| Ian Giffin (Admin)
Rating: N/A |
Hi John, Go to "Search", type in "help with brake cans", change "Keyword options" to "And", change "Look in" to "Subject Lines", click "Perform search". You will get one result. See if my charts help you at all. Ian www.busnut.com | ||
| t gojenola
Rating: N/A |
The 30 and 24 numbers are the square inch measurement of the diaphrams. This means that with 100# of air pressure, one produces 3000# at the actuating rod, the other 2400#. Quite a difference, and I don't think anything less than the 30" is used nowadays for heavy duty equipment, except on steering axles. On my 4106, which came with single cannister 30" rear brakes, I replaced them with 30/30 spring brakes. tg | ||
| John Rigbyj
Rating: N/A |
tg. Could I ask you to e-mail me on how you did it. it looks to me like the 30/30 canister if mounted 2" towards the slack adjuster would make the rod off center ( of course I would move the bracket 2" closer to the slack adjuster to fit the extra can). Thanks John johns4104s@yahoo.com | ||
| t gojenola
Rating: N/A |
John: I tried to send this to your yahoo address, but it came back undeliverable, so here it is: John, it has been a few years since we did this job, so memory is a bit hazy. I have some non-digital pictures that I could send, but I don’t think they would answer your question. Also, on a 4104 it may be somewhat different. In our installation, the cans line up exactly as they were before. We first removed the old cans and cut off the brackets. Than we cut into the beams a little at a time to about 2” and squared the cuts as much as possible. The suspension beam on the 4106 is a square tube and the brackets are welded on the outboard side of the beam. It turned out that the only cutting we needed to do was on that outside vertical surface and the mounting bracket angle braces. The bottom of the beam end was later cut at an angle to make things fit. We then made new mounting plates to replace the original brackets, and cut them to fit the exposed end of the beams. As I recall, this took some try-for-fit exercises and reshaping of mating surfaces. My son did all of the cutting and welding, so some of the work I am not completely familiar with. In the final stages after assuring the fit between mounting plate and suspension beam, we then mounted the new brake cans to the plate temporarily. Then while holding the cans and brackets in place by hand we attached the push rods to the clevis at the slack adjusters, and making sure everything was in place and lined up, we turned the slack adjusters in the opposite direction. This drew in and held the assembly tight in position on the beam, and we tack welded the brackets to the beam. Lastly, we removed the cans from the brackets to finish the welding, primed and painted, then remounted the brake cans. We installed new s-cam bushings, shoes and springs at the same time. Hope this explains the procedure well enough for you. If not, let me know. I can send you the photos if need be. tg |
