| Author | Message | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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Been giving the H3 conversion a lot of attention lately and been spending about 2-3 hours a day on it. This week I decided to take the whole week off from work to get more done. With the help of some friends (being close to the phone) and Susan, I have been able to finalize our floor plan, stud up both side walls, run conduit, mount outlet/switch boxes and add rigid foam to the original spray foam for added insulation on passenger side from rear to front. I should have no problem finishing up drivers side this week and then I'll concentrate on ceiling latter part of the week. I tell you, the walls have to be about 3-4 inches thick and when the ceiling is done, it too should end up around 3 inches. So far the H3 has been a little easier to convert than our Eagle. Everything seems to be more in square and truer making for less RE-measuring. I have already seen a difference in interior temperature by adding the rigid foam to existing. Much COOLER with the 3 roof airs. In fact, had to turn the temp down to be comfortable to work and that is in 80 something degree days and off during the evening. Getting excited about doing the finish work. Can visualize it but just can't see it, YET! Getting closer every day! After installing my HUNG black tank, I decided it might be a good time to drill a small hole where the toilet would go according to our NEW plan. I drilled from bottom up because I knew the drain pipe would not change. I had already drew a circle inside simulating the toilet hole. With Susan observing above and me below drilling, I went thru with the bit. I heard the laugh that I have heard many times before. I though, man could I be that far off? I went upstairs and found my drill bit pointing directly, I mean directly in the middle of the circle, just like I had drilled it from above. I couldn't do that again if I tried on purpose. It must mean things are looking positive. At the same time we thought it might be a good idea to locate where the vanity sink would drain. Again, from our NEW floor plan we were worried it might drop down on top of OEM air duct or ??? but low and behold, it misses everything. The shower worked out very well too as it drains almost directly into the tank with plenty enough room to tie in kitchen sink and w/d dryer if we install one! Like I said... so far so good! Well I'm back at it. Just had to take a break and talk about it! Ace | ||
| david anderson (Davidanderson)
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Ah, I remember doing all that. Can't say I miss it though. Much more fun to use than build. Keep at it. David Anderson | ||
| Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
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Which type of insulation did you use, also--which type of conduit? I am at the point of deciding which to use on those two Items myself. Thanks, Gary | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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David... thanks! | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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You can get the insulation at any leading insulation company. Ask for the foil backed rigid foam type. They can cut it any thickness you want. Mine was $9.00 per inch for 4x8. You can do the math. As for the conduit? You can get it from the same place I did. it comes in 200 foot or better rolls at $40.00 per 100 foot. FoxElectricSupply.com It's the blue stuff that is flexible! Ace | ||
| Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
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I have been considering Isocyanurate insulation, which is about the same as the spray in stuff, but it's Way, Way rigid, won't bend at all. Bluebirds have curves. There is also the Pink and blue stuff that is in Home Despot, which has a backing, but not foil. A buddy of mine is ordering some straight styrofoam stuff, that is Foil backed for the ceiling in his shop. I'm going to put the same stuff in my shop. It is bloody cheap. As for Conduit, I was wondering if you used EMT or Carlon-type conduit. I forgot about the fact that your wiring is in bays. I don't have bays. Almost all my conduit will be exposed to the weather, underneath. I'll use the same blue stuff as you did inside. Gary | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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I might explain that my coach is factory sprayed. I merely added rigid foam to that. Also, I used the blue stuff for conduit and it's UP in the coach, NOT under in the bays! I buried it in the walls and insulation. I will probably do the same on the ceiling. If I had my desktop PC up and running (storm damage) I would post some pics. Running on laptop and dial up for now. Ace | ||
| Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
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I saw a "Kit" that was disposable that you could do the spray in without spending a fortune. I'm going to look into that. I bought some cable that is I think 8 or 10 conductor, some sort of Mil-spec, rubber-jacket stuff that has shields on every conductor. Probably cost $10/ft Originally, I got twice the length of my bus for $5. I'll use this for Instrumentation and low-current stuff, but I still have to run some wires the length of the bus, and I'm trying to decide between EMT or Carlon. Gary | ||
| darisb
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Gary, If you're talking about the Fomo Products spray insulation kit, I used one of their kits. I used it to insulate the engine hump on my 4106. It worked out really well. It took a 100 board feet kit, to cover the engine hump (excluding the first 16" up from the floor), to the top of the hump (about 6" up the back windows) on our 4106. Wear a mask and gloves. Be careful of fumes. We put a fan in the middle of the bus, blowing the fumes out toward the door and front windows. Regards, Daris | ||
| Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary)
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Just looked at the site: Fomo Products, Inc. Looks like the same thing that I saw, but it had another name (Don't have the link handy, it's on my home computer) How Much $ for the 100 board/foot kit? Gary | ||
| darisb
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Gary, I bought it direct from the web site. It was something like $245 for the kit, plus about $80 for shipping, less $20 if you took the simple usage test. I think it ended up being just under $300 delivered. The kit is considered hazardous materials, so it's more expensive to ship. They ship it by common carrier. The shipping charges are less if you can have it delivered to a business **WITH A LOADING DOCK**. Daris | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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One more day and it's back to to work. At work that is, not on the bus. This is what I have accomplished so far this week from being off at work. Started off insulating the gen bay and then went inside... Walls studded Ceiling studded 2.75 inches of insulation added to walls Conduit run thru walls and ceiling Outlet boxes installed at all appropiate places Wires pulled thru all boxes (WHEW) Power is supplied on one side A/C's wired and cooling (re-did routing of conduit) AND started the rear cabinet/end table sections that will make built in storage bed. THIS really got Susan and I pumped when we sat back and saw the potential! Cherry laminate on the rear section will look mighty good when completed! Should have some of that done tomorrow as well. One thing about doing a conversion. You sure do get your excercise!  Ace | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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Couldn't stand it any longer so I decided to take the H3 out for a short spin. Checked all fluids, air it up, brought it up to operating temp and began to back her out. Everything was ok until I started to go forward. The check engine light came on briefly and went out. Stayed out until I came to a stop and briefly idled. As soon as I accelerated it went out again. Made the short trip with this happening all the way while stopping and going. When we got back home and pulled into the driveway the light was out. Then it came back on as I was straightening the bus in the driveway by moving back and forth. As it sat idleing, I put it on fast idle, the light went out. I kicked of the fast idle and it came back on. So I thought, let me do it by foot control with pedal. I revved it up to about 1000 and it went out. As soon as it idled down it came back on. Sometimes after it comes on and it just idles, it will go out on it's own but I can get it go out by idleing it up. Ok you get the picture I'm sure. Oil pressure is great and water temp is great! I checked the water and oil level and everything is FULL! Any ideas? | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
hook up the DDEC "reader" that you have... and see what active codes you're getting... | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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I have the reader but don't have the module for it. Haven't been able to locate one! I guess I could check the flashing check engine light manually when I turn on the DDEC switch! Ace | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
there is a way to check it out..... it will require some research... if there is a way to 'isolate" the low oil pressure sender to "fool it" for a few minutes, just long enough to take it out of the system then you can determine if the switch/sender is bad or not... same with the hi coolant temp switch/sender...the company i work for now has readers and laptops for dd/allison.... and i have the laptop/software/communication adapter for caterpillar electronic engines... the other way is to find out what the correct signal from each switch is, and generate the signal yourself... but with ddec needing a pulse-width-modulated (PWM) signal instead of a voltage signal, that might be difficult... all this is based on the assumption that there is nothing actually wrong with your engine... that the problem is either a wiring, switch, sender, signal or computer problem....i guess the first step should be to actually verify the water temp and oil pressure with mechanical gages...then proceed with electronic troubleshooting steps.... | ||
| H3 (Ace)
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I did the manual test and came up with 1 flash pause and 6 flashes making that a code 16. The it went on to flash 4 times, pause and 3 times making that a code 43. After looking in the book, the codes say it has a low coolant sensor high voltage and low coolant. The coolant level is full so the 43 is off probably due to a false reading of the sensor. The code 16 could be a wire that is grounded out on chassis or simply a bad sensor. I ordered a NEW sensor today and will start there. Thanks for all the help! Ace |