| Author | Message | ||
| Bill Gerrie
Rating: |
Has anyone ever tried to install a pump to precharge the oil gallies in a DD. I was wondering if this would help prevent a dry start as they say most of the wear is on startup. Any comments? Bill | ||
| Ken Turner (Pipesusmc)
Rating: N/A |
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=engine+pre+lube&btnG=Google+Search | ||
| Kevin Allen, Nebus (91flyer)
Rating: N/A |
I myself was wondering this exact thing... Because my bus will not be started for several months now before I go pick it up, I was wondering what I could do to pre lube the engine... Now I have an answer to that question... And the question of how I would do it each time I was ready to move again..  Sometimes, it's the simple things that escape me... Heh. -Kevin | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A |
Good article on practical installation, although not in a truck... apparently it's a good thing. Makes total sense.... http://www.maxumowners.org/Prelubers.html | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
on 1 of the display engine that is in the backyard... there is a pre-lube pump built on the starter... to use it, you energize the starter motor... but the starter is not engaged.... after you see oil pressure, then you start the engine....i'll try and find out who the mfgr is/was.... | ||
| Matt Rating: N/A |
I have been reading some of the post and I say to my self. Self what is going on here, I doubt if there is one person on here that has a good low milage eng that will ever wear it out. A little bit of over kill but then I think well this is a hobby for most of us, so I guess any thing goes. Just thinking out loud. | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A |
Pre-lubers are, for the most part, a waste of time and money. The are great for newly built engines that have dry oil passages but for others that have already been run there is enough residual oil in the bearings and oil galleys to keep everything lubricated to start and run. When you hear that most of the wear on the engine occurs during cold starts; this wear is in the clyinders, not the bearings and bushings, and there is NO way to prelube the clyinder walls before starting the engine up. So save your money. --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A |
I should add that the best thing for your engine is not a pre-luber, but a block heater/Webasto. Warm starting is the best way to reduce the wear and tear on the engine. --Geoff | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
fyi:::on cummins big cam and small cam engines, cat 3406's and some, but not all series 60 detroit engines, there are piston cooling spray tubes that direct a stream of oil into the base of the piston... this does lubricate the cylinder walls...lots of industrial engines use coolant/block heaters... the stand-by emergency generators...firepumps...and several designs incorporate a pre-lube pump in the starting sequence.... | ||
| Ray Lala (Rayshound)
Rating: N/A |
Bill, one of the places the instructions call for is to tee it into the oil pressure switch. It takes suction eigther on any tap on the side of the pan below the oil line or it comes with a drain plug that is tapped in the side to take suction. I Rebuid a few insurance cars that sit for a long time. I use my preluber off of the bus to run oil through the engine before cranking over. At work we have large diesel generators that are on stand by to start incase of loss of offsite power to shut down a nuclear reactor and also the 1300 mw turbine generator uses oil lift pumps for start up and shut down. Some of my research said the turbo benifits are the best as the engine is shut off and the oil pump stops but the turbo keeps spinning with its oil lines being cooked with no flo next to the hot exaust. I don't feel it could hurt especially as far and few between starts. Ray | ||
| Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A |
Jim-- the piston oilers work off the oil pressure to the rod bearing; what little oil makes it way to the piston with a preluber is lost when the oil control rings scrape it off. Preheating is the way to go. --Geoff | ||
| jimmci9 #2 Rating: N/A |
the piston spray cooling tubes work off the block oil galleries....on a cummins big cam, you can see tnm as they extend thru the side of the block... on the cat 3406's they bolt to the block, right underneath the liner... series 60 engines are the same way...the old detroit 2 stroke engines oiled the wristpin off of the connecting rods...but i agree that pre-heating the oil and coolant IS the best way for a cold start....when i took the valve cover off of the 671, the dd in the old "man show 5105".. the engine had been siiting unturned, unstarted for over 6yrs... there was oil still beaded up on the rocker arms... | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Prelubers are for normal cars & trucks , 5W-30 or 10W -40 multigrade oil . When its cold and you ask it to pump 40wt DD oil many problems occur , like melted pump motors. On boats it was tried as the power to use a far better block heater does not exist for most. Simplest that worked was an inverted 5 gal propane bottle with a solenoid . The engine would get 3 gal of extra oil added and after cold start (highest oul pressure) the switch would be thrown to capture the 3 gal in the propane bottle (now accumulator). On shut down the oil level would be adjusted for normal use. At the next start the accumulator would be opened to Pre Lube , the start made , and the accumulator closed , right after start. Helpfull in ME where engine starts below zero F are common. FAST FRED | ||
| Adame Rating: N/A |
It seems that with the accumulator type pre-lubers it could be possible to starve the engine of oil as the accumulator is being re-filled by the engine's oil pump. I don't know exactly how these are made, just thinking out loud here. May be there should be two paths into the accumulator. One path would be through a small orfice, past a check valve. This would allow the accumulator to fill slowly and not starve the engine. The other path would be through a solenoid valve with larger passages to oil the engine quickly. This solenoid would be energized before start up while oil pressure far down stream is low. Then it would be closed by a pressure switch signal. Then to cool the turbo after shut down, a small pump run by a timer. The idea here is for the system to be automatic and fool proof. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
Or a solenoid or valve setup that provided for: 3 positions On, Run (refill) and Start | ||
| Lee Bradley
Rating: N/A |
Adame, You are correct that an accumulator can starve the engine for oil. I use a three quart accumulator on my race car to give the bearings all the protection I can as the engine may go weeks between starts and start is from cranking to 3,000 rpm idle. The accumulator has a 1/2" ball valve that I open to pressurized the engine bearings and then shut to start. Once the engine starts, I open the valve a fraction to refill the accumulator. If I open it completely, it will drop the pressure from 70 psi to about 20 psi. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A |
Hello pre-lubers. Father relates that the Royal Navy used pre-lubers on the shipboard engines in the 50's. For the older American, Smokey Yunick, the sneaky racer mechanic, wrote an excellent article on building bullet proof really high mileage commuter car engines - major add on he recommended was a pre-luber. He advocated a little circuit that wouldn't allow starter engagement until oil pressure was made by an electric pump, activated by the key being turned to start. Pretty much idiotproof, like cars need to be. Most car engine wear occurs at start-up. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Bill Gerrie
Rating: N/A |
Fellows Thanks for all the great input. I will be putting in a completely overhauled DD 6V92TA and I would like to help it in any way I could. jimmci9. If you find out the mfg's name I would appreciate getting it. That sounds like a really idiotproof system as we all tend to forget things. Thanks again for all the opinions expressed. This is really a great board. Bill | ||
| Jim G. - RTS-II
Rating: N/A |
The Million Mile Honda Accord engine was owner equipped with an ignition bypass switch. He would crank the engine over some before starting. An interesting sidenote is that he expected to replace the starter more frequently, but the starter was still going strong at one million miles (not km). I personally looked at the odometer shortly before the milestone was reached, and I also spoke with the owner. Yes, he used synthetic oil. Jim G. - 1979 RTS-II |
