| Author | Message | ||
| Wayne Buttress (Eagleman)
Rating: N/A |
Looking for info on installing the rear cap on my NJ Eagle 20. I have placed the cap on the bus to see what supports need to be welded prior to final placement. The final 2' of tube framing is tapered about 1 1/2" per side, The cap from R&M fiberglass dosen't allow for this tappering. I am hoping this will not be a problem for final installation. I guess I need reassurance that it won't be a problem. Some of you Eagle 20 guys are ahead of me in the conversion process. How did you deal with this issue? Thanks, Wayne | ||
| Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A |
Hey Wayne, The draft taper that you describe is why I decided to not replace the cap on my Eagle 20. I retained the original cap but I did fiberglass the access door to give the same appearance as the R&M version. According to some of the ex-eagle folks the draft is a drag reduction feature to improve fuel mileage and so forth. I live within about 45 miles from Brownsville where the 20 was made and there are a few guys around that actually worked in the factory that sometimes offer some insight. I couldn't determine a good way to adapt the regular R&M cap but I also was under the impression that R&M was going to produce a rear cap that was specifically for the 20. | ||
| Ed
Rating: N/A |
I kept the original cap with a ten inch raise. I also kept the bus air so had to add in ten inches to the side and rear doors. I do have a photo of a redone 20 but appears that they kept the original cap also and just replaced the doors with sheet metal. If you wish to go with the R&M cap I think you will have to weld additional metal to the top framing. Going that way you will still have to taper down the side panels. I'll send you some photos. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
I'm assuming that the 1-1/2" taper, per side, is over the last 2-3 feet? If so, I doubt it has little effect on the overall drag reduction. But this doesn't necessarily mean that it doesn't benefit aerodynamics. It might have a very beneficial effect on radiator performance or something similar. The existing structure carries load. If it were undisturbed and the cap was supported with some carefully fitted wood formers, etc., mayhaps that would provide sufficient support and not require a change of structure? Marc Bourget | ||
| Bob Oakman (Bobsbus)
Rating: N/A |
The Eagle 05 tapers too, but not as much. I hope I understand your question. If not my answer will sound foolish. My rear (R&M) cap appeared to be wrong for the same reason. I thought they sent me a 20 cap for a while. It was amazing, with both the front and back, how, after riveting the bottom corners, you could hammer the cap farther up under the roof skin and it would just suck right in against the frame on the sides. I screwed up when pre-cutting my front cap and could not hammer it all the way in without loosing my line above the windshield. I had to make relief cuts in the cap to relieve enough stress to get it to snug down tight on the sides. I patched the cuts with fiberglass and bracing on the inside and bondo outside. With rivets all the way across the back, up the sides and on top, coupled with the strength added by their shape, my caps are as solid as a rock. I don't believe the frame work I added has any structural function besides holding the new inside skin up. | ||
| Wayne Buttress (Eagleman)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks Guys, The difference between the rear of the R&M cap and the bus framing is more like 5" total at the rear radius. There is no way to force the R&M cap to fit existing framing. I'm thinking of cutting the new capin the middle from bottom to top where the cap meets the roof, which would allow me to form the cap to the framing. I still need to think about this. I ordered the R&M cap thinking it would be a better fit. Worst case, I can send the Cap back to R&M and us the old cap and modify it. Ed, thanks for the pics.. Greg, can you email me some pics of your conversion. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
Wayne, Unless you don't like the shape of the new cap, the fact that it doesn't fit perfectly is not that big of a deal. There's not much in the way of loads on the rear cap. If it's riveted around the perimeter, it ain't going anyplace. maybe add a metal brace or two in the most open spots, cut some plywood formers to fit here and attach them to the added braces. Spray Foam if you wish. If you're really agressive, glue some rigid foam blocks, one by one, to the inside and add a layer of fiberglass over those blocks on the inside. Work your way, step by step across most of the cap and You'll be fine. | ||
| Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A |
Wayne, the link below has one picture that shows fiberglassing the air condition system door seams. I used to have finished pictures on this site but it appears free is not forever and they must have reached a key date or something. I will find a finished pic and get it to you. - Greg http://members19.clubphoto.com/gregory666303/guest-1.phtml | ||
| Bob Oakman (Bobsbus)
Rating: N/A |
Hey Wayne, My rear cap was at least 5" wide at the radius as well. R&M usually sends installation instructions with the caps. In my case, someone forgot to throw them in the box. I figured that starting in the middle on top and in the back with riveting and working my way out and around would be the way to do it. BIG MISTAKE! After calling R&M and discussing the situation with the boss there, I pulled it off and did it the right way. It pulled right in and became a perfect fit. They were very helpful at R&M. Before you cut the cap in half, give them a call and talk about your concerns. They may put your mind at ease. | ||
| Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20)
Rating: N/A |
Here is a finished picture of the rear cap  |