| Author | Message | ||
| joe (Joe_Littlewind) (12.14.225.163)
Rating: |
OK, now here is one. My bus has been sitting in front of my house on the city street ever sense I brought it home about a month ago and I haven't been able to start it. Now it is squatting a bit cause the air is down. No one will come out and change out the starter for me (I'm pretty sure its the starter). So here is what a bus shop foreman said I could do: To air up system with no engine power: add air pressure at fitting in engine compartment that is forward of the air pump. Block under bulkhead. To max access to starter, Remove lower 1/4” bolt from the rear, left & right leveling actuators and push lever up to inflate rear bags. Add more blocking A/R. Now change out starter. Can anyone tell me if this sounds right? Joe 4106-2119 | ||
| J.L.Vickers (209.34.3.25)
Rating: N/A |
Sort of but there is a access plate where the rear seat bottom use to be for gaining access for a starter change that's how you do it on a jimmy | ||
| don (Bottomacher) (151.196.140.130)
Rating: N/A |
While we're on the subject, has anyone out there ever changed the starter on a 4106 8-71 from the access hatch inside? My bus is down, and I can't get air to it to raise it, so I can't reach the bottom bolt on the starter with anything but my finger. Will a stubby wrench work? Do I have to disconnect the clutch linkage? Thanks, all. Don | ||
| Steve Fessenden (63.27.88.35) Rating: N/A |
When I thought I had a starter problem it was batteries and wiring. Make sure you are getting the proper voltage at the starter and the batteries are in top shape. Mine had a blown battery cable over the rear axle. The starter is too heavy to take out if it is not bad. Steve Fessenden | ||
| Frank Allen (64.12.101.182)
Rating: N/A |
I would clean all the connections from the battery to the starter , also all grounds, it is more likely the problem. as for the starter you crawl under the bus , there is a access hole in the bulkhead, ther is some kind of a breather on the side of the engine , you remove it , take a lone extension and a ratchet and you can work through that hole , remove the wires and two nuts and pull it out and back through that hole and to the ground then you can drag it out of there, as i said its most likely not the problem . Frank Allen 4106 2626 | ||
| mel4104 (208.181.100.47) Rating: N/A |
hi as a post above says check all your electrial connections and the grounds mainly the one from the engine to the coach engine bulk head this one is the trouble a lot of the times that a coach will not start.next check your voltages ta the starter on the (000) wire from the battries to the starter then check the voltage going to the sel. one wire comes from the starter button and the other goes to ground. have someone push the start buttonwhen you check this wire be sure that the coach is out of gear.if you do not have proper power at these points it is not the starter .a way to check the starter to see if it will turn is short out across the two heavy lug nuts with a screw driver you have to make contact on the nuts only not on the bolt threads it will spark so hold the it on firmly if the starter is ok you can start the coach this way. best of luck. mel | ||
| joe (Joe_Littlewind) (12.14.244.22)
Rating: N/A |
OK here is what I've done so far. Bat VDC is 12.5 between bat posts and between ground-to-cutoff output (in bat compartment). When I push the starter switch (in eng compartment) I hear a loud click but couldn't tell if it was coming from the rear elec box or the starter. So I put my hand on the starter soleniod and felt nothing when I hit the switch. I then checked for power in the wire to the starter soleniod with the start switch pushed; had 12.5 VDC. I then jumped 12 VDC strate to the starter soleniod wire and got no click. So I sermize the problem is down streem of the starter soleniod supply wire. That could be the starter ground or soleniod connection OR be a bad soleniod. Does this sound right? Thanks, Joe | ||
| Jim Stacy (12.87.110.163)
Rating: N/A |
I have had a problem with the connection from the jumper strap on the solenoid large terminal to the starter body itself. I believe this is a 3/4" nut as I remember, the same as the solenoid connections. It had corroded under the strap enough to open the circuit. FWIW. Jim Stacy | ||
| joe (Joe_Littlewind) (12.14.225.54)
Rating: N/A |
New starter installed! BUT I did it my way. I didn't go thru the access panel AND I didn't drop the exhaust menifold. Here is how I did it. 1) I added air to system via the air muffler (this was to get bus up), and put 8X8 oak blocking under balkhead. 2) Disconnected LH & RH rear air actuators and pushed actuator arms up to rais bus more (got about 2 additional inches) and added more blocking. I was now able to sit up in hole just forward of balkhead and access starter thru balkhead opening. 3) Removed breather assembly from engine. Now I had all the room I needed. 4) R&R starter. I did have to grind one of my sockets to make it a thin wall but other than that, it realy wasn't that bad. And some of you had me shaking in my booties. | ||
| Chavel Silva (205.188.192.21)
Rating: N/A |
Is the voltage on a 1967 GMC OmniBus 12 or 24 volts? It has two very large batteries and I'm more than sure that they are both 12 volts. They are tied together. Thanks | ||
| Scott Whitney (63.151.69.220) Rating: N/A |
I know nothing about 1967 Omnibusses, but can offer this. . . Are they tied so that: 1. (+) goes to (-)? or 2. (+) goes to (+) and (-) goes to (-)? If #1 is true, they are in series and you probably have a 24v system. If #2 is true, they are in parallel and you probably have a 12v system. Scott |
