| Author |
Message |
Ian Giffin (Admin) (24.112.158.238)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 27, 2000 - 6:15 pm: | |
Hi folks!
Welcome to our new bulletin board system!
Please feel free to leave a message for all to respond to, just as in the past.
Enjoy :-) |
Don Thompson (63.25.64.6)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 07, 2001 - 9:06 pm: | |
Hi Everyone!
I am the proud owner of a rust free 1972 Gillig Model # 855-15. The coach is 40 ft, Cummins 350 small cam, turbo'd,(totally rebuilt), 5 Spd, dual rear Rockwell's. Lot's of chassis mod's.
I also need to sell it quickly because I am in a battle with two types of cancer. Anybody know where I might most effectively advertise it?
Sincerely, Don |
Mark O. (204.245.228.211)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 08, 2001 - 1:00 pm: | |
WOW! A rust free 70's vintage Gillig.
Up here in the wet NW, Gilligs earned a bad reputation for rusting along the drip rails. I have seen some that were so bad it looked as if all you needed was a pocketknife to turn the bus into an open air tourer.
On the other hand, if they were kept inside or in eastern WA, they rarely rusted. East Valley School District in Yakima still has some 1950's vintage Gilligs in their fleet that have zero rust.
Mark O. |
Patrick Lorang (207.149.220.166)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 5:20 am: | |
Hello, I've owned a 1960 Crown 35' school bus for about 8 years now. It's empty of seats, but I've gone no further in converting to an RV. I need guidance on two things: 1) Where in the world can insurance be found to drive these buses on the street while they're in the process of being converted to motorhome status; and 2) If the interior wall & ceiling panels are removed to insulate the bus, will this seriously alter the structural integrity of the bus (the walls are so thin already, I don't see what holds the bus together)? Any tips on both these questions will be very appreciated. If possible, please e-mail your responses to me directly, or let me know that you've posted a response to the board. Thanks much! Patrick Lorang, palorang@telcomplus.net |
frankmerxbauer (198.81.17.187)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 13, 2001 - 4:25 pm: | |
Don t. from frank good luck. Still worked on the shop hope to get the roof raised this summer . I'm out of work if you're in the area stop by the coffee pot on. You can still e-mail me at frankmerxbauer@aol |
Mark R. Obtinario (Cowlitzcoach) (206.163.13.95)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2001 - 1:41 pm: | |
The structural strength of school buses like the Crown and Gillig comes from the steel framework underneath the skin. Unlike several of the motorcoaches and almost all of the van/cut-way shuttle buses, the skins on school buses are not structural.
I would think you would be able to blow in insulation between the skins like you can do inside your house siding. Boring holes inside somewhere along the centerline of the bus between each roof rib would gain you access to all of the space inside the roof.
I would not try to remove the panels. I doubt you would be able to get them back into place if you did so.
Good luck.
Mark O.
P.S. Frank--I have tried e-mailing you direct and it keeps coming back to me. Call me--877-274-0385 or e-mail me direct @ cowlitzcoach@kalama.com. Thanks. MRO |
Aaron Gold (208.159.29.24)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2001 - 4:03 am: | |
Insurance: I insured my Fishbowl with my own company as an RV; I simply told them it was a conversion. In your state you may be able to register the rig as an RV, you may need to show progress - a chem toilet and air mattress might do it. |
jdexsquid (130.207.68.60)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2001 - 10:39 am: | |
I haven't seen any posts to the Crown site in a while. I thought I'd just drop a line. |
bob (64.12.102.22)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 03, 2001 - 8:16 pm: | |
good day folks--just a short note to request info on gillig chassis-1992,3576 cat,alison 4spd. auto.built w/beaver body as a m.h.-1993 have all sorts of ques. hope some can help tks. bob |
Mark R. Obtinario (Cowlitzcoach) (204.245.250.158)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 2:05 pm: | |
The Gillig frame as used underneath the motorhomes is sort of an odd duck. It really is not directly related to any of the Gillig bus chassis.
If you have questions, if you could be specific, we could most probably answer them for you.
Mark O. |
dougthe bonifiedbusnut (24.147.157.103)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 10:00 pm: | |
hey pat
i just go to my ins company and tell them that i want to reg my camper in the converting stages i dont i have to put a lot of ins on the coach have not had a problem question #2 the panels do provide for longetudinal stability do not drive the bus with the panels removed but you should not have a problem reessembling the panels if yoiu label them as you take them apart i am doing a 65 40 footer and will tak the inside panels out to insulate and pre wire and will put htem back when done i just got a new digital camera when i learn how to use it i will send you a bunch of pics |
gduxbury (24.163.191.108)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 11:43 pm: | |
Hi Everyone
I own a 66 Crown 40' tandem and am converting it to a RV. I naturally have a thousand questions, but I'll start with a few. Where can I get the tools for removing the screws? How can I remove the side windows? I tried to no avail. Lastly are there any salvage yards specific to Crowns.
DUX |
Mark R. Obtinario (Cowlitzcoach) (204.245.228.239)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 11:31 pm: | |
The tools to remove Crown fasteners are virtually impossible to find. West Coach (909-464-1025) has some but not all of them available. Unfortunately, the ones you really need they no longer have.
the easiest way to remove the fasteners is to take a grinder and grind a slot so a standard screw driver can take them out. Make sure you give them a good swift hit with a hammer before you try to remove them. It helps to loosen them.
Pat Young at www.wheelchairproject.org and West Coach are about the only places I know of to purchase parts that exclusive to Crown Coaches.
As to how to remove the side window glass, I never have had to remove one so I can't help you.
Good luck.
Mark O. |
dougthebonifiedbusnut (24.147.157.103)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2001 - 7:04 am: | |
hey mark
if you look at the channels that the windows go up and dpwn in you will see 3 screws they hold the channel in take them out drop the channel down and the window comes out to the outside i just bent them at the bottom, pulled the channel out, and removed the window to the outside |
gduxbury (24.163.190.122)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 6:57 am: | |
Just a note on the window removal. There a fourth screw inside the window channel which was hard to see and alluded me for a long time. Once this was removed the window comes right out easily. |
Spokesandfamily (12.72.29.237)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2001 - 6:15 pm: | |
Hello,I am now a proud owner of a 40ft 68 Crown. This is my first bus, so I am not familiar with the different levers on the driver's panel. The place where I bought it dealt mostly with transit buses,so they didn't know. The two mystery levers are on the left side. One moves left to right, the other up and down. Any help would be appreciated.
I have just begun preparing it for a conversion and have stalled on where to put the toilet and holding tank. I would like to put it over the rear wheels and run a 4inch pipe over to the holding tank, possibly mounted next to the fuel tank. I am not sure if it would work. If anyone has any ideas, or a great solution, I have begun this adventure very willing to learn and look forward to making new friends.
Spokes |
RC BIshop (128.123.88.46)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2001 - 7:27 pm: | |
Hey, Spokes!
My '64 Crown Highway Coach has a midships engine. I was under it today looking for where I could do what and frankly, still have many questions. There is a tight maze of stuff under the floor and no holes big enough in the frame cross members to run even a three inch pipe. One could do some dipsy doodles down, around and maybe between the wheel and the outside of the frame, but that doesn't seem feasible to me. Also, my exhaust takes up a lot of room on the left side and the fuel tank on the right. A dilemma. I am not raising the roof on our coach and tall folks would have a hard time stepping up to a floor mounted over the wheel wells. I'm looking for ideas too. I had considered putting ALL tanks in the rear baggage compartment, but that's a long run. Good luck |
jdexsquid (216.175.68.225)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2001 - 6:47 pm: | |
I have started to put my holding tanks where the air filter is located. I already have a 35 gallon black tank in just forward of the wheel well and am going to place a grey tank in front of it. The toilet is located directly above the black tank. I have a friend with a 40 ft that actually raised the rear trunk floor by 6 inches to put the black/grey tank underneath the trunk in the rear. I haven't actually seen it, just his description. I hope this helps some.
Jim |
Mark R. Obtinario (Cowlitzcoach) (204.245.250.37)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2001 - 7:23 pm: | |
Hey Spokes,
I am not sure exactly what levers you are referring to.
If your bus had a stop paddle and it no longer is on the bus, the lever may have activated the stop paddle and overhead lights.
Most of the switches operate lights, blowers, or heaters. The push buttons usually operate the door control or the engine start/stop.
Sometimes the levers may operate a fast idle or fresh air intake.
All I can say is operate the levers and see what happens.
Good luck and happy trails.
Mark O. |
RC BISHOP (128.123.88.42)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2001 - 11:59 pm: | |
Hey, Spokes!
Your "levers" have stayed with me so today I did some checking. On the bottom of the "front" wall, to the right of the steering wheel, I have two "horizontal" type switches or "levers" which appear to be an after thought in that location, and could have been moved from elsewhere. They are both labeled with a metal disc. One is an Interlock switch for the drive axles, the other is for slippery surface driving. Don't know if this helps, but it is a thought. These are chrome and about 2 1/2 inches long. RCB |
Spokesandfamily (12.72.22.76)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2001 - 2:15 am: | |
Thank You for your help RC. You've solved the lever riddle, I believe they may be the same as on my coach, just in a different location. Any luck on your holding tanks? I may put mine inside,under the commode,such as Fast Fred mentioned in the calling all Crowns board.
Spokes |
FAST FRED (63.215.226.210)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 08, 2001 - 5:36 am: | |
The slipery surface could be a regulator that reduces the air pressure to the front brakes.
Some GM has a switch for this.
IF you have dual rear axles , as trucks do the interloch would cause the rear set to drive too.
Check if there is a driveshaft between the rear axles.
If you only have single axle , this could be an axle lock systen ,
like positraction in a car, but only for use on very slipery stuff ,
not working all the time like car.
Hope you figure it out, sounds like great stuff , if you drive much in snow.
FAST FRED |