| Author |
Message |
T. (Bluegrass)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 7:47 am: | |
OK Guys what Is your Idea on Temperature control on the 8V-71 Detroit Diesel 1969 MCI-7, back In the winter I put In new thermostats, 180 degree and put In new antifreeze, went to Florida for a month, then to Louisiana, then home, while In Florida I visited Universal Coach ( nice people ) I bought new rubber cones for the squirrel cage blowers, went to Louisiana, took one of the Radiators out and had It rodded out, come back to Ohio with the temperature about 110 all the way, it didn't get over that but It would run at 110 all the time, while In Florida I put In a mechanical Gauge and It says that I am running about 195, what have you guys done to overcome this problem.
Thanks In advance
Tony |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 8:52 am: | |
start with replaceing temp. sending unit |
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 10:33 am: | |
Sounds like u have already done all the right things. You might try replacing the temp. sensor and the dash guage unit as a matched pair, which is the accepted good practice. Is the 110* a typo? If that is the case you have thermostats hanging open. I'm confused by the guage reading of 195 and the reference to 110. Where are u getting the 110 reading from, or with, if the guage is reading 195?
Friend of mine w/same bus opened up the discharge openings of his squirrel cages and used a bigger pulley up top to speed them up; solved his heating problems, along with all new gaskets and seals. He is the same one that tried all the electric fans before that TD. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 12:08 pm: | |
It is a smaller pulley on the top to increase fan speed. These were, and probably still are available from MCI parts along with the shorter belt required. The faster fans were originally used on MC-5 shuttle buses where there is a lot of low engine speed and then foot on the mat to get to the next stop. |
T. (Bluegrass)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 2:43 pm: | |
James
The reading for the 210 degree Is coming from the electronic gauge that Is In the dash, the 195 reading Is coming from the mechanical gauge that I put on while In Florida |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 3:32 pm: | |
and where is the 110 reading comeing from |
Craig (Ceieio)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 6:06 pm: | |
Tony - Some ideas:
- Make sure that the blower door seals well. Also look for a good seal around the radiators.
- Grease up all of the actuating arms for the blower venturis (my name for them).
- Make sure that the radiator shutters are operating properly.
- Verify fluid level for the cooling system.
- Verify that anti-freeze and water mix is correct per DD manual (specific gravity test??). Too much anti-sneeze and the coolant will not carry away enough heat.
- check for signs of belt slipping.
- Verify blower drive oil level.
My DD 8v71 runs about 175 most of the time. When I am hill climbing it goes up, but it has never gone higher than 200 degrees (yet).
My MC7 has two rebuilt radiators, plus one of the original radiators is mounted in the engine bay next to the louvers on the right side. The third radiator has (dare I say it) an electric fan that I can switch on to add a little extra cooling when I charge the hills. The radiator is quasi sealed to the side using a cut up mud-flap.
I am at a little bit of a loss as to why the engine doors are solid. It seems to me that they trap a good deal of heat. When I pit for a fuel stop after a few hours on the road, I open the doors for the inspection and oil check and get hit with a wave of heat trapped in there. (Even in cooler weather).
I need to think about the problem to see if there is a good reason the the MCI engineers did not provide venting back there. It seems to me that you could add some closeable vents to the doors that would help evacuate heat in warm weather. I know it has been done, I just don't know the engineering "truth" of the situation.
Also check out Fred Hobe's pully kits at Coach Conversion Central, you might benefit from a different pully if your blower drive is in good repair.
Good Luck!
Craig - MC7 |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 7:06 pm: | |
show them your chevy grill Don.... |
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 7:41 pm: | |
Stan: Thank you, I stand corrected for my senior moment on the pulley. |
DrDave
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 8:55 pm: | |
I found a similar erronious gauge reading on my MC9, Turns out the dashboard panel ground is weak, The temperature would change when the headlights were switched on and off..
Check the grounds to your dash panel insert if yours acts funny.. |
Rich International Bus & Parts
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 10:34 pm: | |
Water temperature Gauge -$43, water temperature sender -$15, Alarmastat (212 degree automatic shutdown switch) -$25. Piece of mind that my engine is not going to burn up -Priceless.
Rich
800-468-5287 |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 8:26 am: | |
Hello Tony
From the beginning....
You don't know if you have a temperature problem.
Your dash gauge is reading differently from a mechanical gauge you recently installed.
How do you know either is telling the truth?
Others have noted the fixes for the dash gauge.
Be sure you have a problem before you spend much more cash and worry that might be better spent on some other area.
Purchase of an infra red temperature gun arguably should be on your shopping list, due to it's wide use for all manner of useful coach issues. (Search the archive for a thread on these)
For instance, down through the hole in the floor at the back, while you drive and climb mountains, an assistant would be able to take real time temperature readings by shooting the coolant pipe leading to the heater cores.
Then you have a third reading to wonder about....
In the process of replacing my rotted radiators, my testing showed that my dash gauge consistantly reads high, so I "recalibrated" my head and now 200 is 180, or "normal", at least until I get a new sender and gauge....
happy coaching!
buswarrior |