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gg04

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Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2005 - 2:36 pm:   

Since the same questions get emailed to me everytime I post about it .....There are only two choices to repower a 4104. One is 8v71 6v92 L10 or series 50 all with a v730 or voith auto of some kind...If this is desired go to Conversions in progress on this site and Look at Linda and Kirby Karlsson's 04 the cleanest repower with an auto I have ever seen...done with no rear end swap and they have used it for years..and they actually use their bus...I have already done the 6v92 v730 swap into a 06 and liked the bus but didn't like the mileage (our average was around 6 in 3 years of use). Plus with the larger motors heat becomes a problem with the original style radiator.. and with the series 50 and cumminsL10 weight goes up more than just the added weight of the auto..and its cooling requirements.. So two was my choice I wanted to keep the original 4spd and see if I couldn't get and average mpg of 10 or better...the 6L71ta ddec II from a flex or TMC rebuild of a GMC RTS..This will bolt right up to your original 4spd..It is a major job but the easiest swap I've done..If you are mechanically inclined it is not to big of a challenge.Cooling still needs addressed though..I swapped from a stock 26" fan to a Flexalite perertbilt offroad pusher 28" (running on a backwards gmc it is now a sucker)and a custom built full ducted shroud..(have used this style many time on overheating vehicles it is a sheet of 1/8" aluminum bolted to the rad with a hole cut out 1/2" over the fan size centered on the fan, then shroud made of commercial lawn edgeing L bracketed to the sheet surrounding the fan) works really well in warm climes but if used in cold weather must use the original shutters or it wil not get to operating temp..this motor runs a little warmer than na 671's it has 190 thermostats and stays close to 200..I still need to build better rad hook ups out ot stainless tubing,done at the moment with three flexible radaiator hoses...you have to use the remote oil filter mount and the exhaust now comes out towards the rear bumper..I just spaced the hatch out an inch and cut a 16" panel out over the turbo spaced out another inch and covered with a sheet of louvered aluminum . Cut a slot through the door and using exhaust bends and flex pipe from the original exhaust ran it out and down the bumper in 6" pipe( I have a 5" home built baffel inside the pipe but not sure it is really needed) Wireing was time consuming just make sure you get at least all of the pigtails that plug into the computer and control boxes the data port plug and the foot throttle..I made all of my own harnesses..just check the wires on all of the above before you start about half the wires comming out of the main computer box are just dead ends..not need for the transit ddec system. Just check first..all the wireing diagrams are in the ddec trouble shooting manual you will need one.. did all the engine wireing and hook ups before installing,moved the main computer box from the back of the engine to the firewall above the engine..Just to make service if ever needed easier. mounted the second control box in the old electrical component compartment on the passenger side rear of the bus..all fusing hook ups and power are there..(remember the main unit requires constant power fused straight from a main power source) ran six wires from the engine compartment to the front for idiot lights and throttle pedal. Mounted the system check plug in the rear compartment with all the other electrical. Did the engine swap with a 6ton forklift in my drive way.You have to use the old front motor mount and rear engine plate so you will need a DD exterior parts gasket set..all your accesories and parts have to be swapped to the new motor...took three weeks from start to finish,but only about 40 hrs total time..rained a lot..would do this swap again in a minute, lots of power and torque,and fits so well.. Any other questions just ask gg04
gg04

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Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2005 - 4:15 pm:   

Missed two things..you have to mount a fitting on the rad upper holding tank to take a water level sensor..and the air filter must be changed I went to a ford 9000 8v71 remote unit mounted over the trans...plumbed to the turbo with pipe and hoses from the ford. I only spent $4000..total on this swap,engine, parts and rentals.. but I'm cheap and really shopped around.. the only thing that upset me was that nearly all the new parts were marked made in china..all labor is mine...gg04 Just Us
gusc

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Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2005 - 4:55 pm:   

gg,

Do you use Webasto heaters or any other kind of block heater?

Isn't it better for diesels to run around 190-200 degrees? All the diesels I ever drove, especially Cummins, were hard to keep warm even in summer. I could never get them to run above 180 in winter even with most of the grill covered.
gg04

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Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2005 - 6:31 pm:   

Better to run around 190 200 more efficent..but two stroke detroits really build heat under load..most common problem is too much heat..(unlike 4 strokes which use the first stroke as a cooling blast too)..Its just that compression and firing every time it comes up...No block heater...gets below 50 I;m gone south..gg04

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