| Author |
Message |
Soonda (Soonda)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 8:41 am: | |
Have read all the threads on roof air vs basement air, but haven't seen anyone mention using portable air conditioners. We have an MCI 102a2 and are contemplating using a 12 BTU that also heats. This is one of the models we are looking at: http://www.air-n-water.com/product/MAC12K.html
We really don't care for the look of the roof a/c and thought this would free up luggage bay space, plus the price isn't bad.
Any thoughts? |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 9:13 am: | |
You can read more about them here
They still require venting to the outside via a window, or other
means, and the noise factor should be considered...
I suppose if I had the space these things occupy, I'd be interested..
Floor space is always a premium, even with a 40' coach.
Since the roof isn't used for living space, what better place to
put an air conditioner? |
Jtng
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 9:31 am: | |
Further reading:
http://www.epinions.com/content_133390175876
In a coach (RV) where moisture can be a major headache,
it might not be such a great idea to add water to the cooling..
These "Auto-evaporation" models all appear to work the
same - by pumping the moisture into the cooled air.. |
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 9:49 am: | |
See previous discussions on this very topic:
Here...
http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/6093.html
and the followup, here...
http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/6276.html |
Jim (Jim_in_california)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 11:42 am: | |
Once you actually see one and realize it'll take effectively the same floor space as a small shower or closet, your interest will drop substancially. |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 10, 2005 - 12:18 pm: | |
Roof air units don't leak, if you remove and re-seal periodically. BTDT
Roof air units don't bang your head, unless you are 6'0" or more or have a raised roof. BTDT
Roof air units aren't noisy in your ear, unless you are standing up. BTDT
Roof air units only cool, you still need heat. BTDT
Basement air units do take up some bay space and need duct installed, but are quieter, and have heat pumps.
Mini-splits do not take up as much space as a basement air unit, but are a little noisier.
Mini-splits are usually small enough to put in your spare tire compartment, that is where mine is going.
Mini-splits have more size offerings than rooftop units. 9K, 12K, 18K, 24K, can have heat pumps built in and some even have heat strips also.
One company touts the fact that their heat pumps work down to 0 deg.F
None are perfect, take your choice.
HTH Ed |
James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 11, 2005 - 9:49 am: | |
Jim: A good point. The above units take up a considerable amount of floor space and the 46dba is high. Honda makes a 2k generator that is quieter. |
TomNPat
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 2:58 am: | |
Jtng!!
I would suggest you re-read the informton on the link you provide.
My second suggestion is that, after actually doing the first, please explain what your concerns are regarding moisture.
Jerry Liebler frequently posts on the MAK board and has quite a bit of experience with the portables. He is the one person I would approach for advice since he is successfully using them.
TomNPat |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2005 - 10:28 am: | |
TomNPat !!
Well.... All the portable air conditioners have one thing in
common... water that's taken out of the cooled thin air has
to be removed from the unit.
Some have pans or basins that have to be manually dumped.
Yeah, you can probably pop a hole and run a water line to
outside the bus.... You already have to pop holes through
the roof or wall for the vents anyway, so one more through
the floor shouldn't disturb the guy with the drill..... but, man...
Can it still be called "portable"?
Others (as in the one I gave a link to), spray the condensed
"waste" water in front of the cold air vent, to further assist
"cooling" the air. That equates to more moisture being dumped
into a small confined space. And it's with that one, that I wouldn't
want in my Bus/RV. There isn't anything worse than adding
more moisture to where it's already difficult to get it out of..
One hot shower, and we're wiping all the windows.. A rainy
day fogs the windows..
These portables may be fine in a home, where things aren't
built quite so tight and you're probably running an AC unit in
the rest of the house to both cool and remove moisture..
But in a bus? And using two (or more) of those type to achieve
sufficient cooling? How much moisture would they add?
The smallest unit I looked at, was about 18" square and about
3' or so, tall. It doesn't sound like an overwhelming amount
of space..... not until you make up a box and see where inside
your rolling home you'd like it..
I don't want to give up living space for utility items. We travel
with a bird and a rabbit. And we like elbow room. That was
another reason I wanted to build my own RV from a 40' bus.
There are pros and cons to everything. We weighs 'em up and
makes our cherse.. |
TomNPat
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 - 3:29 am: | |
John, the new guy who is no longer new!
Apparently you didn't read or re-read the link you posted to inform the rest of us of your accuracy and authority.
We live in a bus 6 months of the year and understand moisture. But that is not applicable to the topic we addressed.
That topic was, to quote your post: "In a coach (RV) where moisture can be a major headache,
it might not be such a great idea to add water to the cooling..
These "Auto-evaporation" models all appear to work the
same - by pumping the moisture into the cooled air.."
They spray the condensed water on the 'hot coil' which is the condensor through which air is passed on its way out the vent. Like, wow, the outside of the bus man!!!
Size, noise level, showers, and houses were not addressed in our post. We suggested you re-read the post which explains the facts in the paragraph above. We were not questioning your expert status on bus conversions, at least not publicly.
TomNPat |
John that newguy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 - 9:50 am: | |
Yeah ok... so I can't read... Condenser coil... outside...... the
water gets sprayed over the condenser coil, helping to keep it
cool and happy, so you don't have to empty a pan..
The guy in Home Depot explained it just as I did. I read it and
still got it wrong. But the one I looked at was not vented
outside, and it was explained that no outside venting was needed.
So, to keep it "portable", you wouldn't vent it outside and
end up with more moisture inside.
It's fine with me to question anything I may type; you should.
I'm no genius or expert of anything. I make as many mistrakes
as anyone else. Big deal. We're dealing with opinions regarding
anything here.
With these units, you still have to pop holes and run the vents
outside. These units were designed to vent our a window and
to be used as temporary, portable cooling units. Once you start
"fixturing" them, they're no longer portable, and they take up room.
And as it was said by someone else... the noise from these units
is greater than conventional roof mounted types.
No expert; just an opinion. I almost went that route and changed
my mind for the reasons I gave. |
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