| Author | Message | ||
| C Tuck Rating: |
I am about to install my split-systems. I need to connect my basement condensors to the evaporators. I have one evaporator unit in the front and one in the rear. I am solicting recommendations regarding the use of copper refrigeration lines versus rubber barrier hose. Will the sweat connections be an possible fault area? Should I use flare or compression connections? I am using R22 refrigerant. Thank you. | ||
| Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
Rating: N/A |
I use air conditioning copper tubing - and would again. Sweat the connections with air conditioning silver solder. Available at HVAC supply stores. Ed Roelle Flint, MI | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A |
When I went to air conditioner/refrigeration school we used silver solder on everything. It is a lot stronger than solder and less prone to leaking than flare/compression connections. Ed | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A |
Copper tubing, well anchored and strapped, with solderd joints will yield the best service. Silver solder joints or SilPhos. Silver solder has superior penetrating and flow qualities, yielding a stronger joint. SilPhos (Silver and Phosphorus Copper) is on a par with regular silver solder but has the added quality of not blistering as silver often does. Never use 95/5 solder or acid base flux. You should also provide for vibration isolation by using either braided isolators or rubber hose connectors at the terminal ends of your lines. Do not use compression type fittings anywhere; flare fittings, preferably manufactured, as they are heavier in the shoulder and flare seat area. Use long radius elbows when using hard drawn copper. lines. | ||
| C Tuck
Rating: N/A |
Thanks everyone. What kind of heat source is required for silver solder? | ||
| Pete/RTS Daytona (Pete_rtsdaytona)
Rating: N/A |
Have you looked at the new "GALAXY A/C HOSES" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7970753878 here's an ebay link that I used months ago to buy a/c hoses at $1 per foot r134/r12 a lot easier to use than copper - somewhat insulated (rubber) - easy to bend - super high quality - virtually leakproof Pete RTS/Daytona | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
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I believe the purpose for the hoses at one end is to allow the equipment to be gotten at for maintenance later. There is not enough vibration on a spit system to need flexible hoses for isolators except for an engine mounted compressor. | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A |
Sorry to disagree w/you Stephen, but there is enough vibration accumulated thruout any system to warrant vibration isolation on solid copper lines. Additionally, this is not a stationary application. | ||
| BrianMCI Rating: N/A |
As fas as compression versus flare... over the years I have seen a fair number of compression fittings where the compression ferrule worked it's way loose causing the fitting to fail. In that same time span have seen only one or two flair fittings fail. The common cause of failure for both types is vibration. Which leads me to believe that flair fittings withstand vibration better. Additionally, I believe flair fittings will withstand higher burst pressures... I've seen burst copper tubing near a flair fitting ... Conversely, I've seen a number of compression fittings where the tubing popped right out of the ferrule under high pressure. Also, if a compression fitting is not tightened properly intitially, it can pop the tubing out of the ferrule at normal pressures. You would never see compression fittings on a brake system. As far as I'm concerned the ONLY real drawback to flair fittings... is having to make the flairs! Brian | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
I recall from many years ago of having a "double" flare tool. I believe it was for stainless hydraulic brake lines, but I can not really recall for sure. Anyone familiar with this and would it not be good for A/C ines? Richard | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A |
DML: Otherwise known as inverted flare. Yes, a hydraulic application flare. It is done usually with a power flaring tool that rolls the end of the tube inward and then rolls the entire "doubled end" out into the flare. I have never seen a hand tool that does it. Obvious advantage over a single is the reinforced face of the flare and the other not so obvious one is the shoulder area remains the same thickness. A standard single flare actually stretches the copper for the face and shoulder area in order to form the flare, thereby making it thinner than the tubing it is formed from. That is the purpose of using long neck flare nuts on refrigerant tubing and fittings; to place the shoulder well up into the neck of the fitting. Most flare ftngs that fail due so from vibration that tends to crack the shoulder where the tubing has been stretched thin. I like to use manufactured roll formed flare ftngs where vibration is going to present a problem. They come pre-made, with the nut, and u solder them to the line. Pricey and u can't get them everywhere. | ||
| Jtng Rating: N/A |
Plenty of 'em at JC's Online Toolshed and at Harbor freight. I'm sure Sears and the rest have 'em as well? | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
Look for the best. Skip HF on this one. A good manual double flare tool can be had for under $40. I bought metric and SAE sets for a total of about $50. I bought OLDFORGE which seems to be a top quality brand on Ebay. I have to make my own rigid brake and clutch lines on my UNIMOG because they are not available in parts stores. |
