| Author | Message | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
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All, I'm about to do some plumbing and may need to violate he code. Where I want to place my toilet and the size I want my waste tank to be combine to preclude having the toilet dumping straight down into the tank, as the code requires. I'm wondering about the consequences of having the toilet's outlet pass through about a 10" length of 3" pipe that is on a 45 degree slope. I'd use a toilet flange that has an angled outlet and I'd build the tank with the inlet angled 45 degrees and into the top surface of the tank. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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DO IT ! ! ! | ||
| Ross Carlisle (Rrc62)
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I had the same problem. I couldn't get a straight shot on the toilet or the vent stacks. In the end, I followed the rule...vents go up hill, drains go down hill. My toilet drain is probably 25 or 30 degrees and about a 10" run. I kept the horizontal runs as steep as possible. I'm installing a spray nozzle next to the toilet incase a load needs a little boost to get down. I figure the angles in the bus are much greater than the drains in the house, and gravity seems to work pretty good there. It shouldn't be much different in the bus. Besides...If I have to take a big old nasty dump, I'd rather not do it the bus anyway. That's why god created public restrooms.  Ross | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
I'm not saying 45 deg. won't work, however . . . I don't think this is so much a "code" but a fact of life or physical properties of the "mix" You chose the slope of a waste line so the water doesn't outrun the solids, leaving the solids behind to clog things up, smell and possibly promote disease. RV toilets, being the ultimate "low flow" units are particularly vulnerable to the downsides of waste disposal. (Pun recognized but not intended) | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
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I know of a couple that are like that and they don't seem to have a problem. You may now and then have to use a bit extra water, but it should not be that much problem with as short a distance as u are talking. | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
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I doubt that will be a problem. Less angle maybe but 45 is fine. One thing that can happen with "straight down" into a shallow part of the tank is that you may end up when booneying with a "poo mountain". I got one once in my first bus that clogged the pottie hole so well that I had to drill a hole in the side of the tank to jet it down with a water hose. Not a fun job. So make sure that either way that you don't put the tank hole over a shallow spot in the tank, and keep some enzyme'd water in there!!! | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
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Another way to prevent the "poo mountain" is to not leave the sewer hose open. This allows the liquids to run out and leaves the solids in the bottom of the tank. wait until the tank is at least half full. This will carry the solids out with the liquids. Jack | ||
| Jim Bob Rating: N/A |
What Jack said! I know lots of folks that have had a problem like that, almost all from not having water in the tank. Ours is 120 gal combined black & grey and we never have a problem. We also don't dump until it's about 3/4 full (unless we are done using the bus for that trip). | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
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Jerry, I've just had a look over the code, and I don't think this is a code issue at all. Section 7.4.2 governing toilets says nothing about it, and section 7.6.5.1 allows 45 degree elbows. Just make sure you use a waste 45 and not a vent 45 (different radii) and you should be fine, vis-a-vis the code. Section 7.6.11.3.1 does require that the waste pipe enter the tank vertically, and be a minimum of 3" in diameter. The only place the code may enter here is that the code requires you to follow manufacturers' instructions, and if the manufacturer of your toilet requires (vs. merely recommending) a direct drop, that may make you, de-facto, in violation. In this case, I would just not worry about it. There -- I knew you were waiting for the code weenie to weigh in. -Sean | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
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You will find posts in the past from people who have longer 45 degree runs from the toilet to the tank without problems. Apparently it is done a lot. | ||
| Jtng Rating: N/A |
Without a straight drop, you won't be able to look in and see what everyone else has eaten while you were away.. | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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corn always shows up | ||
| HondoJoe04
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The key here is shet runs downhill. Mine is plumbed in with a 90 out of the toilet-16" of horizonal 3" pipe & another 90 drops into the tank. Been this way for over 20 years and never a problem. I did have it apart this year & inspected it well when new toilet installed. The toilet mostly has liquid flowing thru anyway so things just keep moving..........no worry. | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
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Sean, Yes, I was hoping you'd give chapter and verse. From what you've quoted I need to change my plan slightly and do some more shoping. I had intended to build a doghouse on top of the tank and have the waste line enter it at a 45, this probably is a violation though it would work as well, maybe better (a second 45 certainly doesn't improve flow). To be in strict compliance with 7.6.11.3.1 I can use a 45 ABS street el glued to a very short threaded ABS pipe and enter the tank vertically through a polypropelene threaded inlet. At the toilet end I'll have a PVC flange with a built in 45 degree outlet glued to a short piece of PVC pipe. A synthetic rubber coupling will connect the PVC pipe to the ABS street el (the part I have yet to find). May as well do it totally right. Again thank you. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| JJ Rating: N/A |
HondoJoe04, I've got you beat buddy. Three 90's and two 15 inch sections of 3 inch pipe. No problems in 5 years. ...JJ | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
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Jerry, I think your latest plan will be fine. FWIW, there's the code, and then there are always the exceptions that somehow never made it in. My toilet is much further from the tank than can practically be dealt with by conventional DWV plumbing. It's about seven feet horizontal displacement, through a chase that does not allow for the necessary 2" drop in slope. We ended up using a Microphor Microflush air-operated toilet. This is a nice unit, and it works very well. But it discharges through a 1.5" waste pipe. Naturally, they spec only a 1.5" pipe required all the way to the tank, and, in fact, since there is a specific amount of air used to discharge, upsizing the pipe would actually create a problem. So now, even though this is an "approved" RV toilet, you now have only a 1.5" waste line entering the tank. I ordered the tank with 3" fittings, of course, and I am using a reducer, so technically what enters the tank is 3", but I think you can see the code dilemma. All that being said, it's really nice only having a 1.5" pipe running through the bay, especially considering there is storage in that space as well. -Sean | ||
| Jtng Rating: N/A |
Man, you've really mellowed out with this "code stuff", Sean! Cool. (Kinda' what I once said about it being more important to have an understanding of the intent of the code when making modifications, instead of simply "obeying" the code?) | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
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"code applies to Manufactured situations" Personal use for non-commerical non-resale doesn't necessarily need apply to "code". As long as the stuff runs downhill and don't smell or spill I figure that if it works for you, do it! Use the "PU" code. " Whatever works that doesn't cause health or other problems. If you were building a house then things might be different. Even Marine installations take liberties in "code" requirements due to mechanical area configurations. At least here were are not pumping stuff overboard.... In the case of electrical then there's a liability issue and the rules "codes" are used for safety reasons. It is NOT a perfect world. No conversion is "perfect" and when you have to do it all yourself, certain variances will creep in to help accomplish a particular job. | ||
| R.C.Bishop[
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David.....amen...and amen! RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) |