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Message |
lbrown
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 10:38 am: | |
On my motor is a oil catch,it is one that had pipe up centre to drain oil when full.It must have bottomout and bented in and would not let
oil out when full.Iam leaking oil like crazy now
and was wandering if air box had filled up and how I could drain . thanks for any help
lbrown |
Geoff (Geoff)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 10:45 am: | |
If the oil is leaking out the cannister then the air box is not filling up with oil. Do you realize that excessive oil out the air box is not normal and is a sign of worn piston rings and/or blower seals? The cannister is just a stop-gap and not a cure. |
Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 5:33 pm: | |
Agree with Geoff,
You can find out which one it is by pulling off the air box covers (kind of oval shapped metal with two bolts holding it in) and running the engine (get it up to temp, stop the engine then pull the covers, start the engine again). If you look into the air box (use a flashlight and safety glasses...) you'll see either the oil coming from the air box (which indicates bad blower seals or turbo seals) or oil coming from the intake hole$ that lead to the cylinder (indicating bad ring$ - read that as "$$$ in-frame rebuild $$$"). If your rings are bad you'd probably see a consistent blueish tinge to your exhaust that won't go away when your engine warms up.
Besides if you know your catch can is busted, replace it (how did you bottom that out? They're mounted pretty high usually...)
Tim |
LeonBrown
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 07, 2005 - 8:35 pm: | |
I think it was dented in before I bought it.This motor is supose to have only 173,000 k. on it.
Where on the motor are these plates and better yet where is air box.It started leaking oil have way back from Niagra falls so I had some work done on the top end when was getting jake put on
and mechanic mentioned that when he was taking heads off that nothing seemed to be torced right.
I just want to make the best of a nice bus and fix the motor this winter if need be. As I am going across Canada next spring if I have to tow it.Thanks for any help.lbrown |
Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2005 - 10:18 pm: | |
The air box is the part between the cylinder banks and under the roots-blower (where the intake manifold would be on a V-6/V-8 gas engine). These oval plates are on the side of the engine below the exhaust manifolds, and on the "up-to-date" engines the oil drains from each side of the engines are drilled into these plates (you'll see a hose from the oil catch heading in the direction of the plates anyway, because the original "non-revised" engines took the drain from a hole drilled in the block between the plates).
I emailed you a cut-away diagram of the intake system, and a picture of the "DD Revised" air box oil drain system (both from 'Da Book), but I can't post it on this BB without DD's permission (and I don't want to bug them on saturday)
On the cut-away, notice the series of holes in the cylinder wall above the piston (left side of the picture), these are the intake holes for the cylinder which you can see by looking in the cover hole with a flashlight. If you see oil coming out of these, you have problems. If the oils seems to be coming from the air-box itself, I'd take the time to crack open the blower and pray that those seals are bad (cheap to fix, can be done in a few hours.)
Assuming you trust this mechanic, I'd be a little concerned about the state of your rings and gaskets if things weren't torqued down right (but ask him first if he's referring to the new torque specs or the old ones, they were revised very recently), you may even have warped heads if it's been going on too long (but unless you've seen some water contamination in your oil I wouldn't worry about this too much...)
Cheers!
Tim |
Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 10, 2005 - 1:30 pm: | |
Leon,
In reply to your email:
"Hi Tim!
Thanks for taking the time for your e-mail. I have two buses with 6/92s in them. The 9 I am just putting on hold for now and working on 102a2 that I bought in Niagra Falls last winter. A fellow from out here bought one of the same buses with 43'000k since overhaul and he had to put blower in in Winnpeg and mechanic told him it wasn't installed right originaly. I am debating on taking motor out of 9 (6/92 ta silver 350hp) which I realy don't know about its history or having this motor rebuilt this winter. I would like to buy the book, where would I find the right one. Again thanks for your trouble and patience.
Leon"
Well, while some on this board will advocate for taking an engine and getting it working before you start the major conversion work, others will say get the conversion part useable so that you can go bussin' and more easily remember why you were doing this in the first place. My attitude is kind of right up the middle (hey, I'm from California...) I'd say, get the major engine repairs done while you can still afford them (instead of buying a fridge or something) and get the major conversions done afterwards, so that you aren't stuck on the side of a road waiting for a $20 per mile truck-wrecker to drag your dreams back-to-base.
One of the first things I did when I brought my 84 Gillig home (especially after my starter failed at a rest stop in Oregon at 11:30 PM), was go over every mechanical detail in the engine, transmission and brake system. I started with the brakes, I didn't want to get creative trying to stop a 30K/lb battering ram on a down-hill slope at three in the morning. Personally I'd recommend having a place to pull one of your engines completely apart. Since this is a new vehicle for you, you have to KNOW what state your rig is in, doing a "once over" and replacing gaskets and expendable parts is a "high-quality" way of ensuring that your engine is in good shape, plus you get the piece of mind that comes with a known quantity (instead of assuming that the mechanic was qualified to work on a bus). It's been my experience that even if you buy a rig that comes from a company that does its regular service intervals, they may only "take note" of problems insead of fixing them (two examples from mine were "soft spot in floor next to front-driver's-side wheel well" which turned out to be a 1 foot square dry-rot hole in the plywood floor -- straight to the roadway, and "front left brake locks up when brakes are applied too hard" which turned out to be a worn s-cam they could have replaced)
Alright, I've kept you in suspense long enough.
The part number for the "mechanical" service manual is: 6SE379 and goes for ~$150US (three 3" binders full of good info)
I'm not sure what the service manual for DDEC is, but I'm sure someone here knows (don't worry about this one if your engine's all mechanical, and no computer).
I'd recommend getting the Field Service Data Book as well, this will tell you what is "normal" when your engine is running (oil pressure, water temperature, etc.) Plus, if you decide to change anything with the exhaust or intake (some like it quieter) this has sizing specs, and back pressure limits too. Its part number is: 6SE266 and goes for ~$60US
Both of these can be ordered from any Detroit Diesel Parts houses. I ordered mine from my local house, Stewart & Stevenson (they are everywhere, I'm sure they have a location near you, which you can find here.)
Hope all of this helps!
Cheers!
Tim
P.S. My rig has a 6V92TA Silver (350HP), my opinion is it's a solid engine. -T |
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