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John Harrelson (Jharl)

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 7:19 pm:   

Hi again all, I have this (now not lemon bus(i am not mad at it now))1964 silver eagle. it was converted in 1980 and I am going to fix it up at time goes by and live in it full time for a while. anywho. I needs lots of love and other things like a high/low idle switch and an emgency stop button and a wiper thingy. Any idea about the hilo idle switch and how to install it.

Jack
Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)

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Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 10:45 pm:   

The cheapest high idle solution is a brick.

Seriously, you could probably scavenge the parts you need from a donor bus: a solenoid, an air cylinder, and some air plumbing, plus the switch itself. There might be something else I'm missing...

If you can, upload a pic of your governor and I can compare it to mine. Being a t-drive, I dunno if yours is different anyway from my v-drive.

Brian
John MC9

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 12:12 am:   

A brick! HAR!!

Actually, a stick is what I can remember using (way back when)
(random harp music, please)... Cut to fit from the pedal to the
dash. Worked slick, and doubled as the earlier version of cruise
control. If you were real careful, you could run back and take
a leak and get back to the seat, without the stick falling out.
(ok, that never happened)
Craig (Ceieio)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 12:44 am:   

Does the bus have a jake brake? To have a Jake and the fast idle you need a high $$ buffer switch that allows both functions.

Craig - MC7 Oregon
Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 1:16 am:   

If you have an air throttle (like Williams brand), you'll need:

1) a switch (to turn it on or off - SPST for single speed ie. "normal/high idle" and SPDT center off for two speed ie. "high idle/normal/low idle")
2) a valve (to switch between the peddle regulator and the high idle regulator, double this for two speeds of idle)
3) a regulator to maintain the correct air presure for the desired rpm (or two valves for two speed idle). Bendix makes a regulator to keep air throttles aroung 750 RPM.

It is prudent to actuate your service brake if you are running the engine at high idle and plan to leave the seat. One more valve for this is required.

You should be carefull with emergency stops. Typical (real) emergency stop setups use something these here bus-nuts call a "mousetrap". People have different names for this, but they are basically the same thing, a flap of metal that interrupts the intake flow of air. This interrupts one of the three basic requirements of fire (fuel, air, heat). Cutting the fuel off in a 2-cycle diesel may not shut it down as it could be running off lubrication oil, or in certain hot-engine/run-away scenarios, the air itself.

The reason I recommend care is that using the emergency stop flapper will destroy the blower seals if you do it more than once. If your engine comes with this part, you'll need a cable between the release lever and the dash. If your rig doesn't have this, it may be easier to put a CO2 fogger in the intake to displace the air AND cool the combustion chambers (to of the three fire requirements). Match that up with the shutdown solenoid and you'll have a stopped engine very quickly.

Cheers!

Tim
John Harrelson (Jharl)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 8:24 am:   

Yes now that the starter is in and it turns over with the flick of the key, (sorry for the tear) the engine is an 8v71n ibeleive no turbo. and it has an exhaust brake (jake break) installed.

There is a coat hanger like wire that is straighe and ben like and "L" to make a handel over the air tubes at the rear of the bus That I am not sure of what it is or does I tak a picture and pass it along.

Jack
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)

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Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005 - 10:08 pm:   

Is high idle important enough to go through the trouble? I know most buses have it, but how about a manual cable to set a higher idle speed.

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