| Author | Message | ||
| BillGunther
Rating: N/A |
I am about to plumb in my water system and would like to know if anyone has a good way to go that will facilitate putting antifreez in for the winter storage time. | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A |
all drain lines need to run downhill to the tanks....run the drain lines FIRST...the water lines can go anywhere,but, suggest they go in the ceiling in the bays... | ||
| Brian Brown (Blue_velvet)
Rating: N/A |
For supply, plumb in a bypass for your water heater. Make removable connection(s) on the inlet side of your pump. You could make a manifold on the inlet side of your pump with a valve for the pink stuff and one for the fresh tank. At the end of the season, close the fresh valve, drain your tank, hook up the pink stuff bottle (or make a permanent reservoir), open the "pink stuff valve", run your water at each fixture til it's pink. Done. HTH, BB | ||
| Jason Whitaker (Jeepme)
Rating: N/A |
How about blowing the plumbing out with air? Pour a little antifreeze in the traps. Anyone do it this way? Jason Whitaker 4104 | ||
| Rob King Rating: N/A |
Yes Jason, I have just blown out the lines and added antifreeze to the traps and was done for going on 15 years with no problems. In a 40' coach I need just one gallon of antifreeze. Some will say, and it might be true but I have never experienced it, that the antifreeze acts to lubricate the rings/seats, etc in the various plumbing parts. Rob King 91 XL | ||
| Jeff (Jeff)
Rating: N/A |
I was taught to blow out the water lines with air from my air compressor. Walmart and the RV stores have an air valve that is water hose thread for this purpose. Of course the air pressure was less than 40 psi. Not to damage the water lines. After blowing out the lines, I added RV antifreeze. It is not as dangerous as the green stuff you use in your radiator but it is still not good for you. I pumped the antifreeze throughout the cold and hot water lines. With the bus, I did the same thing. Pumping the antifreeze in, I went to the water outlet farthest from the pump. Opened till pink flowed. Then went to the next line and work my way to the closest. Then I knew all the lines were filled with the RV pink antifreeze. Come spring, I ran water through the lines with a little bleach. Then followed that with water and baking soda to neutralize the chlorine bleach. Sure it would be easier to make sure the lowest point drainable. Just does not always happen. Jeff | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A |
Why not put all of the fresh water system inside the insulation and keep it heated. Then dump a bag of water softener salt into the combined black-grey tank after dumping it and a couple of tablespoons of table salt in any drains that have traps in unheated space. I hope to use my bus all year round. Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
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Ya'll MADE me build mine so that the entire system is drainable, both fresh & gray. And for that, I'll take this opportunity to thank you again! | ||
| R.C.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
Good idea, Jerry......if those supply lines are taken care of. In the early 90's we "lived" in a 5th wheel at -25 degrees (below zero, on a real estate sales site....three days a week) for a couple of years, I found the "pink stuff" to be the ticket. One can drain and recover ( blowing the system) use it again and again. Doubt I went thru more than three gallons each winter. As stated above, low spot for draining most probably just won't happen. ....plus, many times there are low spots or dips in a line that one might not even know about. BTDT....best deal is to blow, suck "pink stuff" thru the pump till all fixtures run pink......then when you want to use again, blow the "pink stuff", one fixture at a time to recoup what is in that line. Fill with fresh H2O and you are back in business. We also used pipe foam, plus a series of three 60 watt clip on lamps in the bay space. This used only while we were present. Never a problem. Connection to outside water was by way of heavy insulation plus a heat wrap on both the hose and the standpipe, which was well insulated below ground level. Took a couple of times to "get with the program", but then it was easy and fast each arrival and departure. In our coach, we blow the lines, run "pink stuff", bypass the HWH and pour same stuff into the drains. All low areas are taken care of that way. We use a sump pump in the shower and pour a bit in there, run the pump for a sec and have not had a problem. FWIW...  RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Chuck- "If there's an easier way to do it, I'll look the other way" (Rube Goldberg; 1928) (ahhhhhhh HAR HAR HAR HAR) | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks)
Rating: N/A |
I speeet in ze eye ov 1/4" per fout. Ha! Zats fur weemps. 1/2" meenemum. But I will blow it out anyway tho ;) - Rubeman | ||
| R.J.(Bob) Evans (Bobofthenorth)
Rating: N/A |
In our bus we have 2 separate freshwater systems - one for drinking water and one for everything else. Each of those systems has a three way valve ahead of the pump that allows me to suck pink stuff in to winterize. Convenient access to those 3-way valves would be a major improvement on what we have. One bonus from our system is that we can use the winterizing system to add bottled water to our fresh water tank while travelling in Mexico. | ||
| CRANE Rating: N/A |
If you are using the air blow-out system and have a new (to you) coach, be very very cautious. If there is a dip in the water lines you don't know about, the water will accumulate and freeze (something the pink stuff won't do) and break your lines. If you have done it for years with no problems, carry on then, you are braver than I however. I prefer to use the pink stuff and be assured the line wont freeze. |