| Author | Message | ||
| g
Rating: N/A |
Looking for some input on the feasibility of laminate "floating" floor in my MCI 9. With padding and the non glue type is this a good idea? | ||
| airless in Mississippi (Airless_in_mississippi)
Rating: N/A |
I hope so it sure looks pretty in mine. | ||
| Larry D Baker (Lbaker4106)
Rating: N/A |
I have installed it in my 4106 this spring and am very pleased | ||
| Don/TX
Rating: N/A |
I used it in my 4905 as well as several Class A's, everyplace except the bathroom, could have used it there but wanted a break in colors. We sure loved it, but I would make a strong suggestion that you use a brand that is fully waterproof, the snap together ones will swell and need repair if you happen to spill water on them in large quantities.. At the time I did mine, the only one that way was the glue together Formica brand. The only drawback I know of, is if you drop some large heavy sharp object on it, you will have to live with the dent! | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Input? I am more than likely going to be using that type in my MC9, but with some reservations. I'd prefer normal hardwood that would be glued down (rather than nailed or stapled), but I am planning to put the new floor directly atop the old floor "as-is". With the laminates, there are a couple things to consider: 1. The laminate product must be of good quality, or the surface may be too easily worn or scratched. 2. The underlayment of rubber/foam composition may be problematic if it becomes overly wet (from a leak, etc), since it can not dry quickly and sufficiently enough to prevent mold from forming. 3. The backing on many throw and scatter rugs are not compatible with the laminate finish and can cause a chemical reaction that can damage the flooring surface. But aside from that, the stuff looks great, it's fairly easy to install, and the cost is well within reason for a limited budget. It's about the same price as carpeting, but it beats carpeting for both wear and cleaning. | ||
| Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Rating: N/A |
I just installed laminate in my Prevost. Use 1/4" cork underlay and the floor floats. Looks great easy to clean....I used tile in the bathrm. Ron | ||
| Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Rating: N/A |
I used engineered wood. Its 1/8 inch hardwood, so it can be re-sanded and re fininshed if need be. Its glued to a plywood base. It fits together with tongue and groove, easy to install. Its extremly stable over various temperature and moisture ranges. Per the manufacturer, I glued mine down right over the vinyl floor. Been in there several months now, works, looks great. | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Jim- What brand was the flooring and what kind of glue? That's more what I'd like to do, but was told the glue wouldn't adhere to linoleum. | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Rating: N/A |
Are we talking about Pergo and other brands that come in strips about 3 feet by approx 8", and snap together? John MC9, if so, we were planning in laying Pergo throughout the bus and use throw rugs here and there. Can one easily tell if the backing on any particular rug will potentially damage the laminate? Hopefully before the damage is done. Thanks, Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| Don/TX
Rating: N/A |
I have used the stuff for years in homes and buses and Class A RV's Chuck, and have put every kind of throw rugs on it, NEVER had any such problem. I just finished last fall doing about half of my Texas home with it. Pergo is one of the NON waterproof brands last time I checked. I passed on the real wood, if you get a little sand on your feet, you have instant pebble finish. Try a sheet of that laminate next to a piece of real wood, it is really tough stuff, even Wal Mart is using it in high density traffic areas these days! | ||
| Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Rating: N/A |
I used the Bruce wood floor adhesive from Lowes, and it sticks just fine. Where I had a 45 degree cut at the stairs, I would spline that as the adhesive is not good enough to keep that from walking a little, but the rest has not moved AT ALL. It just has to be clean and dry, and is actually better than some subfloors as it already is a moisture barrier. The wood was from a wholesale supply house that supplies stuff to contractors, and really just about any engineered wood would do. Pick your wood type and color etc. It was not cheap, but the amount of flooring you need is minimal. I looked at lot of pergo type flooring (ifloor.com), had samples sent etc. Looked at Ikea's flooring. They all looked nice, but when I did a side by side comparison with real wood, none of the others came close to the radiance, the beauty of real wood. Its true about sand and gravel, it will damage the floor. The floor I bought does come with a little aluminum oxide built in to the finish so it will hold up very well to abrasions with normal usage. Just not sand and rocks. You pays your money and takes your chances. We all opt for various tradeoffs, time will tell on this one. The | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Chuck- Pergo is the brand of choice. The real el'cheapo stuff scratches easy, as one of our fellow crazed guys noted awhile back. (I'd probably end up going with the lesser expensive, if I couldn't get a deal on the Pergo). Most of the flooring stores will give you a serious discount if you can use the balance of a closed out stock. I did the front cab and bathroom of the last motorhome for under $20. It was all thin type (normally expensive) oak hardwood designed to be glued or stapled (I glued it). They had enough to do the whole RV, but I had already bought enough for the main floor from another place... at full price. $Ouch$. In the Pergo literature, it tells you what types of plastic and rubber material to be careful with. I don't know how you can tell what the backing of a rug is, tho.. If I do go that route, we'll just re-locate the various rugs every couple weeks, and hopefully avoid the thing from eating into the surface. My wife says that a rug she bought at Walmart for the RV had a tag that said it was safe for wood and vinyl floors. We'll have to check around and see if they're all marked that way now. Be nice, eh? Flooring warranty info Shaw Laminate Flooring (slippage of area rugs) General Upkeep for Bruce Dura-Luster and Dura-Luster Plus Floors Laminate Flooring Basics Jim- Thanks for that info!! | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks John, I was talking to a friend in the Bay Area last night and he said Ikea is selling Pergo now at $.99 a square foot. I guess I better empty out the van and head down there. Thanks everyone for the information. Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| Mike (Busone)
Rating: N/A |
When we had our house we used the $.99 a foot stuff from www.lumberliquaditors.com. Looking at it side by side with the Pergo brand it looked the same. We had it down about 6 months before we moved. That 6 months was during the fall and winter months of NW Oregon. The dog would come in soaked with mud in her paws and get the laminate very wet. I would also come in and out that door all day bringing in firewood. The true test was playing with the dog on that floor. She would hold a toy in her mouth and I would literally drag her all around. Since it was a very smooth finish she had no traction. When we moved out and did the final cleaning I could not see one scratch on that floor. True we only had it for 6 months. I will use the same cheap stuff in my next house. About the rugs I have never heard of that. Maybe it is somethung about the Pergo brand? We had a small run in front of the door and nothing bad happened. Maybe it takes years, I don't know. | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Mike- "Maybe it takes years....?" Could be, I didn't worry much about it, since the scatter rugs get changed and moved a lot in our RVs. I suppose a rug with a rubber backing that's in one place 365 days a year may be a problem... I didn't find any timeframe noted on those sites, just a mere mention of it. I forgot what the Pergo thing said... crap, maybe it was on the brand next to Pergo...dunno.. But it is worth checking.. Chuck- Ikea's got .99 laminate flooring, but it's not Pergo.?? I'd check with a few flooring stores and find out what they might have in back stock or contractor returns. You may get a top name/quality for less than you expect. | ||
| Jim Stacy
Rating: N/A |
Had laminate flooring in the house for more than 7 years. Not a single problem or discernable wear. Put it in the entire '04 from front to back, floating. Snap together product recommended using glue on joints in bath or kitchen. Seems the glue is waterproof and seals the joint from moisture intrusion. This 30'+ length had a GREAT expansion. Destructions called for 1/4" clearance to fixed objects. That wasn't enough the first time or the second time we pulled up some end pieces (thankfully the unglued area) and trimmed off the growth. This was an Armstrong product from Home Depot, looks and wears great and seems to have stabilized now. RV floors undoubtably go through more extremes of temp and moisture than any house installation. When it says give it clearance, belive. Jim Stacy | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Jim- How much clearance finally, so we can get it right the first time? And.... with more than 1/4" clearance, what kind of trim did you use to cover the gap? | ||
| Don/TX
Rating: N/A |
Lots of choices there, I found a baseboard molding looking piece, followed up with a quarter round covered the gap and looks very professional. I can send you a photo of that is not clear enough. | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Rating: N/A |
John, You may be right about Ikea. Costco has some stuff for about the same price. But it ain't Pergo. I was talking to a guy loading his turck with some and his son lays floors for a living. He said the Costco stuff is OK but won't hold up like Pergo. But it IS about a buck per foot. For his needs it was OK. I think I will buy a single pack of the Costco stuff ($23.00) and a pack of Pergo at HD (about $50.00) and put half in the garage and the other half outside in the driveway. Drop the same tools on each, spill the same grape juice and other liquids on each, borrow somebodys dog and drag him on each. And in particular, note how the sun's ultraviolet affects each for a couple months or more. Then I'll make a decision based on what I see and pays my money and takes my chances. The best part is I'll have the wife's blessing on one or the other by that time. I appreciate all the input. Chuck Newman Oroville, CA Chuck Newman | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Don- Naw, plenty clear... I've used ogee molding with common 1/2" x 4" stock, and used the router with an ogee cutter to design the top as well. It's not all that difficult to figure out, or do. I was just wondering if Jim used a plastic or wood trim and what the amount of gap should be. Jim's right, about expansion being a much bigger factor in an RV. Even a house that isn't temperature controlled, wouldn't see the temperature extremes the average RV will. It's not something most of us think about, when we're busy trying to figure out how long the board should be, as we're cutting and sweating. | ||
| Mike (Busone)
Rating: N/A |
Good point about expansion. The instructions clearly mentioned to leave a 1/4" gap around the edges. It also said that before installation to let the packages sit in the room where they will be installed for 48hrs. I could imagine the need for a bigger gap in RV usage. One day I could be in Denver 20% humidity and the next in Omaha 50% humidity. | ||
| Jim Stacy
Rating: N/A |
I filled the gap with colored "goop" by Armstrong in tubes and color matched for each pattern. This worked great as it stayed very flexible after curing. The color match was good and not obvious when fully cured. No other trim was used. This made a very "clean" installation. The width was not a problem with expansion, just the long length. Would it have been better if it were separated into different areas such as using tile in the bath area? Would it have been better if the planks were laid crossways? We probably fitted it on the tight side the first time for a "better look". After a couple of days the floor was buckling up due to end load expansion and "goop" was squeezing up from the end seams. We removed and cut a few end pieces and made sure there was a full 1/4" gap. Three days later the floor was buckled again! We repeated the trimming process a third time and it seemed to stabilize, although there is not 1/4" clearance now. They do recommend storing the boxes in the area for 48 hours but these planks are tightly stacked upon each other and the package is well sealed with plastic wrap. I woiuld be surprised if they equalized with temp and I'm sure they don't with humidity. Great product but give yourself some slack. Maybe if you unwrapped each package, stood each plank up so air could get around it, and waited several days before installing it might work better but that is not convenient for most. At least leave extra room and the end trim loose for easy adjustment. I would do it again but be a little more careful. Jim Stacy | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Chuck- We stopped at a few different flooring shops and found it helpful to see the actual product on their own floor. Most places used runners on the heavy traffic area. If you're only doing a section (living room) with it, and using a tile in the kitchen, and back to "Pergo", for the bedroom, I don't know if the wear factor is worth worrying about. The amount of area to be concerned with can be removed and replaced fairly easily (and inexpensively). Jim - That idea of standing the sections on end, out of the box, was an absolutely great idea! That is exactly what would be needed to insure each section was at the temperature of the place of installation. Even if laid out on the floor, it would suffice to get the temperature of each section the same. Good thinkin' ! | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Rating: N/A |
John, We were planning to do the entire floor in the bus with the stuff. If it survives my torture testing this Summer and Fall, I'll certainly follow Jim's and others advice on leaving in the bus a few days. We can take it out of the cases and let it lay in the floor with no problem. Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
The people that bought our house replaced the carpeting with wood. They looked at many kinds of laminate but found that solid oak flooring was actually cheaper, about half the price of the laminates. They used bruce prefinished solid oak. I'm not sure that that has any meaning for a bus conversion since the laminates will be somewhat more stable, but for home use, good laminates are so popular that they may cost more than solid strips. | ||
| H340 Rating: N/A |
Here in Florida I haven't seen any Wal-Marts that use pergo or any other kind of laminate. They have been using PURE vinyl plank in some of the higher traffic areas though which is what I used in my last two busses and home. It's durable, easy to install, completely glued, stays put, even when there are problems with water, easy to replace a single piece (if needed), and the colors and designs make it look like the real thing be it wood or ceramic! A very good product that is well worth the money IMHO! | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Rating: N/A |
H340, I always preferred vinyl roll for ease of installation and maintenance. Is "pure vinyl plank" the individual squares you lay like tile? Or are you referring to the large rolled up vinyl that "to me" looks just like Pergo or hard wood flooring? Or something else? The posted experiences with buckeling and other bus related problems (as opposed to a house) has me rethinking this Pergo type project. Thanks, Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| H340 Rating: N/A |
The "PURE" vinyl I am referring to is made by Nafco and it comes in 3 inch wide or 6 inch wide planks that are 3 feet long. When you stagger the seams, it can create the look of real wood. Different shades as well such as light oak, dark oak, cherry, mahogany, etc. Black and white colors are also availlable. They also have 12 inch by 12 inch squares that resemble REAL ceramic tile but at a much less weight and cost factor. Those have a grout on two sides only and they have to be matched in order to look right! I have the tiles in my bus and not only does it make it softer to walk on but quieter than the real ceramic. They too can be replaced one at a time IF needed! The stuff is darn tuff and as I said, well worth the money! I layed both the 3 inch planks in my Eagle on a 45 degree pattern and the tiles in my H3 on the same diagonal. It breaks up the long bowling lane look and adds a custom touch. I think Jack Conrad layed his wood on a 45 also and has had many compliments! | ||
| Lynn Holbrook (Redlabel)
Rating: N/A |
To ensure a rug does not discolor a floor it is best to buy a cotton throwrug. Larger rugs can also have a rug pad put under them to keep them from sliding and protect the floor. Do not ever use a rug that has a black backing as they will discolor the flooring underneath them. When installing laminate or engineered wood a 1/8" to 1/4" spacing is required on the edges. On the width of a bus 1/8" (this is 1/8" on each end) would be more than sufficient. On the length, the requirment is, an expansion joint if the distance is more than 22'. This is accomplished with the use of a T moulding. There are 5/16" and 3/8" thickness available in solid wood that can be glued down over existing vinyl surfaces for the look and beauty of real wood. | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell)
Rating: N/A |
Cork!!!!Varathane finish. Barge's Rubberized Contact Cement to install it. Insulating, soft, sound deadening,lighter weight than anything going, can be re-finished to new, and will outlast 10-1 any vinyl-particle board laminate made. Next choice would be vinyl planking or engineered hardwood(composite substrate). Vinyl/Particle board laminate would be last choice--They don't issue that "don't allow water to stand'" warning without good cause, and I have seen 2 buses that had just that problem. New flooring time!! Vinyl clad-particle board flooring is comparitively cheap and there is a reason why. | ||
| David (Davidinwilmnc)
Rating: N/A |
Has anybody had any experience with bamboo flooring? If you do a google search for it and click 'images', you can get an idea of what it looks like. To me, it looks good. It's supposed to be durable, but I've not known anybody personally who's used it. | ||
| Lew Poppleton (Lewpopp)
Rating: N/A |
Installed Pergo a year ago in my Prevost and nary a problem. Make sure you use the top of the line of Pergo which is Signature. It already has the backing on it and snaps together with a much more positive seal. | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
The Nafco plank flooring has been used by my by my brothe-in-law and his wife on their last two houses. It is terrific. | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
(I stutter when I'm when I'm excited, too) | ||
| R.C.Bishop
Rating: N/A |
Jim...I used cork as an underlayment, but I have noticed over the time it has been down that it gouges and gets torn easily....where not yet covered....perhaps not so with a verathane finish. One of the best investments I have made...mucho quiet-er, and keeps the heat from the road and engine from coming up thru the floor...we have a midships mounted engine...lots of open space underneath.  I used 1/8th thickness, and could be that 1/4 treated would make a difference. Moving stuff around is hard on wooden Floors...just wonder how it would be on cork. We have laid parquet over the cork, with a runner carpet down the "traffic area". So far so good. RCB |