| Author |
Message |
shawn bennear (Lilneoplan)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 4:11 pm: | |
I am really hoping that someone here can shed a little light to my issues with some of my gauges.
My speedometer did work on the drive home, now it only seems to "sputter" once in a while.
temp gauge never worked.
fuel gauge did work and then went stright to e, and thats where it remains.
any ideas as to where to even begin?
I appreciate the help. The bus in question is my 86 neoplan litl bus.
thanks again!
shawn |
TWODOGS (Twodogs)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 4:50 pm: | |
bad ground !! |
Emery (Telestar)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 8:29 pm: | |
Shawn, 2d's has got it right. Are you working with a printed cirquit board? If so, you may have to check grounding (and cleanliness at each guage) |
shawn bennear (Lilneoplan)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 05, 2005 - 9:09 am: | |
no, its just gauges set in the dash, with a ton of wires going to them. i looked in the service book, and it seems as thoughthey are all grounded to the same place. i will dig a little deeper on this.
the fuel gauge for example, and thats the main one i need to work, when it gets power from the master switch, it pegs right to E. |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 05, 2005 - 12:48 pm: | |
Hi Shawn.
I agree.
Don't even think about anything more complicated than the electricity isn't getting through the wires and connections until you have worked through that.
Renew all the ground connections, and then work through the connections on the other side.
By renew, I mean, take them apart, clean them with the sandpaper/emery cloth of your choice, put them back together. And don't forget the big ones at starter, alternator and battery, as well as the under dash ones.
Use the conductive sealer goop of your choice on the ground side and dielectric stuff on the other side.
No luck, move to the sender units and do the same, checking the condition of the wires closely, since the sender unit ends have lived a much harder life than the under dash ends.
You want to pay close attention to any splices you find. Many mechanics do not do splices that won't corrode over time. A really good splice is soldered and then heat shrink tubing over it to seal out the air and weather. Butt connectors, if prepared properly and sealed are good, but many butt connectors are just crimped on, leaving the air and dirt to get in the ends to corrode the insides.
And those evil little wire piercing things you get at the retail parts places will corrode wires over a foot in either direction, if the thing is out in the weather.
When slicing, prepare it like it is going to be underwater, and they'll not cause you grief again.
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
Sammy B (Sammy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 05, 2005 - 2:22 pm: | |
Hey Shawn, Start by making sure the ignition switch is in the "OFF" position.Disconnect the wire on top of the sending unit in your fuel tank and put a piece of electrical tape on the connector temporarily.If there is more than 1 wire on the sending unit, look for the one connected to the "S" terminal.Now turn on the ignition switch and see if your fuel guage still "pins".If it does not"pin", you most likely need a sending unit.Just a quick test without getting too involved with the wiring.Best of luck with your new project. Send e-mail if you need more help.
Sammy |
Br'er Robert
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 8:35 pm: | |
Shawn, I have an '86 Neo ANN 440 and my instruments are all grounded to the 1/8" aluminum sheet the instrument panel is made out of. Yours is probably made the same way. Check it's ground. Br'er |
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