| Author | Message | ||
| Bob Vandawalker (Rav221)
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As we are in the final stages of our bus conversion to a mobile command center we purchased a 35K BTU Suburban RV Furnace. We have previously reserved space for the furnace in a rear storage electronics area of the bus. Our problem is finding a suitable, safe, vented area for a 30lb propane tank. Remembering that this is a transit, so there are no bays. The former air condensor area has already been used for generator and batteries. A rv dealer suggested an inside metal cabinet vented to the outside of the bus, which doesn't sound quite safe to me. Especially since it would be only about 4 ft from the furnace itself. Anyone been in this situation with a solution? The bus is a 86 Gillig Phantom.. Thanks Bob V. | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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30 pound is just a couple of days | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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I'd say strap it up under the bus....but....you need to think BIGGER | ||
| Tony & Kim Rian (Rianrts)
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We put ours in the same area as the fuel tank. We have an AMG transit and an RTS you should be able to find a tank to fit on the rails. Also think about portable bottles so you don't have to move the bus to fill up. Thats what we are going to do with our RTS | ||
| Dale MC8
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The RV dealer's suggestion sounds ok to me. Remember, LP is heavier than air so it would fall to the ground from the vented compartment while hot air from the furnace would raise. But, as TD sez, think bigger and as Tony & Kim say, think about DOT tank(s). HTH Dale MC8 | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
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Bob, you said that you put the genset and the batteries in the A/C condenser bay. This is illegal according to the National Elecric Code, "batteries shall not be installed in a compartment containing spark or flame producimg equipment", with the exception that "if the only charging source is from the engine generator" (genset). Article 551.10 (D) NEC Ed | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
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Bob, Check the link below. More LPG capacity, new, and can be mounted on the frame rail. Cut an access door for the valves. Stay warm longer. Chuck Newman Oroville, CA http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50-gal-LP-Tank-Propane-Tank-for-RV-or-AFV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQ QcategoryZ50073QQitemZ4578558024QQrdZ1QQtcZphoto | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
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Bob, Forgot to mention, have your local LPG dealer attach a vapor outlet valve. The tank is ported for both vapor and liquid service. New valve and install out here is about $35.00. Good luck, Chuck Newman Oroville, CA | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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it all depends on "how"...you are going to use your bus.I have a 'motor fuel' tank,66 gallons....will last about a month...in the parks,usualy the propne man comes by before I run out...if you boondock ..out in the country,maybe removeable tanks would do,if you brought a car to haul them in...30 pounds is what I call a five gallon bottle (I know it's not )....one....maybe two days.....LOTS of trouble to keep changeing | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Bob- The dealer's idea sounds like the only option. Is there any reason it has to be only 4' away on the same side of the bus? Why not the opposite side, if it really worries you? Actually, our Winnie's propane tank was about 3' from the heater vents, and most all commercially built motorhome's tanks are within close (5' or less) of a heater, refrigerator, or hot water heater. In do agree, that it's a lil' unnerving to know the propane is in the living area with you, but consider that all motorhomes have them under the floor. Wazzadif? If it blows, you're going to look like you got caught boinking the mob don's daughter, regardless where the tank is mounted. | ||
| Dale MC8
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FYI 2Dogs, a 20 pound tank is 5 gallons. 7.5 gallons for a 30 pound tank. Dale | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
The biggest problem with propane heaters is the self serving way the Mfg rate the units. When they say its a 42,000 BTU furnace that means it EATS 42,000 BTU while in operation , NOT that its output is 42,000 BTU. Most of the cheap RV stuff is at best 75% efficent. You need bigger tanks! Or one heck of an insulating job on a coach with NO windows. FAST FRED | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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they only fill them 80% | ||
| TWODOGS (Twodogs)
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this blew me away...ALL the r.v. places I checked,23 gallon was the biggest tank available.....TOOOOOO small...only one week | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
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Funny, this time I am in total agreement with Two Dogs (times do change, huh  ) Bob, you'll find that if you're using propane, the bigger the tank you can stick in the better. Smallish tanks have a nasty habit of running out at the worst times. I have a 100 gallon tank and at times I wish it were twice the size...although I will admit I also run my genset on it. As far as locating the tank inside your cabinet, it would likely be fine IF you can put a healthy sized vent in the floor, straight down to the road. Being 4 feet from the heater or 40 feet from the heater will result in the same situation (boom) if there is a leak and no decent venting. So I doubt that 4 feet is a problem. I've personally seen propane wander across an entire *outdoor* parking lot to an adjacent building, find the water heater and make a real mess of the RV yard that owned the leaky tank fitting. A scene you won't want to witness firsthand. So the bottom line, if your "inside metal container" has basically a screen for a floor that goes directly to the street, and is also vented to the top so air can come in, AND you plumb it with decent hardware so you don't get any leaks, AND you make sure the tank never gets "stuffed" full when it is filled (difficult these days with the new valves, but always possible) so the blowoff valve NEVER gets activated, you'll probably be just fine. In this situation I would also recommend a propane sensor in the bottom of the cabinet with an automatic shut-off solenoid, just in case...although the power for the solenoid is yet another power management issue when you're on batteries... If you use a BBQ style tank, then filling it is not an issue, but the hit is that each time you fill it, you risk not properly tightning the fittings when you put it back in the bus. If you get a permanent tank you can buy remote fill setups that can be mounted on the side of the bus, making this a non-issue. DOT tanks are a little thicker walled too, so a bit safer than BBQ style tanks. That said, my preference always is to bolt tanks under the bus or outside where they are fully "out in the open". Propane is heavier than air as you know, and it tends to pool up when released, and it takes surprisingly little to make a big boom... | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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If I spent all that money to fill a BIG tank full of propane, I would want to be sure it stayed on by spending a little on the tank mounting! Thin mounting straps can rust thru too quickly. If I could not afford any more for the tank mounting, I would mount it behind the rear wheels, that way I won't cut a tire on that 'high quality 1 1/4" strapping' when it falls off. While the post explosion view might be 'to die for', I'd rather not. kyle4501 | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
There's no reason they can't be mounted externally, over the rear bumper.. | ||
| Marc Bourget Rating: N/A |
IIRC, DOT regs require mounted propane tanks to be located between the front and rear axles. I went through Kingman AZ (IIRC) in '74 or so a feww days after a propane tank ruptured and a firestorm walked down the main drag of the town. Great Ball of Fire! Wouldn't be prudent! Keep in mind the same regs require mounting hardware to be stout enough to secure the full tank against an 8 Gee loading. Onward and Upward Marc Bourget | ||
| PAUL COLLYER (Paso_1)
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I witnessed a Schoolie accident about 3 weeks ago and a truck clipped the back add-on extension the owner added. He had 2 of the larger upright propane bottles mounted on the extension. I couldn't believe the impact didn't cause any explosions. I saw the tanks spinning across the intersection. Gave me added secure feeling on what those tanks can withstand. | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Marc- The poster's comment was: "Our problem is finding a suitable, safe, vented area for a 30lb propane tank." There are camping trailers and class c motorhomes using front or rear mounts for the small bottles. Bus converters have been using the 24 or 40lb bottles mounted in the battery area (batteries relocated), or the old AC condenser area. Sounds great, until a side collision? It really doesn't make much difference if it's front, rear or side, it's the amount or protection you can put between the tank and the possible collision. I would prefer the side, but the poster has a transit. | ||
| Dale MC8
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Just a side note, when I was in RV Tech school we were taught that LP tanks were designed to blow the rounded ends off in case of a fire hot enough to make a tank explode. Be careful where you point em. Dale MC8 |