| Author |
Message |
Jimmy Besett
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 7:48 pm: | |
Hello all
Just had a question regarding changing the system
to 12 from 24. Do all the engine compontents
have to be changed i.e. reverser solonoid,temp, oil pressure, emergency stop etc.Was trying to have just the starter 24 and the rest of the system 12. 4905 with 871 w/standard. Thanks! Jimmy |
Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 8:18 pm: | |
Jim,
Why would you want to? The wire sizes are too small, and all the relays and guages and solenoids would have to change. It's even advantageous to run your 'house system' on 24 volts since you can get twice the power to charge house batterys, or run air conditioners, while driving. For a few things that are much more economical at 12 volts, like headlights use either an equalizer or some big power resistors.
My bus is 12 & I'd rather it had been 24.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120 |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 8:24 pm: | |
It is much easier to leave the entire engine control system on 24 volts. If you change everything except the starter you have a major design project. Along with the whole dash, you would have to change most of the realys in the bus. Some relays operate both dash functions and interlock the starter so you would have to add additional relays to make the interface. |
Cliff (Floridacracker)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 8:34 pm: | |
Jim,
On my 4905 I just switched over all the exterior lights(now LED) and headlights. Its is really easy to do.
I used a vanner equalizer, ran 12vdc uo to the drivers control panel, disconnected the 24vdc into the relays and replaced with the new 12vdc.
Same in the rear , added relays as needed.
You still use the 24vdc control to the relays.
Stock wires and easy to trace any issues using the original wiring diagram.
The other thing is do you really want to put misc equipment(solenoids, switch etc...) on your bus. It can make it hard to find a replacement parts. Along with all the reasons Jerry cited.
Cliff
1975-4905A |
Jimmy Besett
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 22, 2005 - 9:20 am: | |
Thanks for all the input.
This bus has been stripped out of all panels front to back all wire,dash, relays everything
electrical with the exception of engine related
items.I began wondering about the skinners and other items on the engine, the equilizer, would then need to be installed "before" the components left on the engine? Thanks again for the help!Jimmy |
Ray Lala (Rayshound)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 22, 2005 - 6:01 pm: | |
Jimmy just another take on it. Since the wiring, dash panels etc have been removed 12v may be the way to go. The skinner valves can be replaced with 12V coils. The sending units on the engine don't care. Replace the 24v with 12v starter & sol. and the alt. Run proper wire size for the increased current. I ran into this myself as I up graded my engine that is all 12v & electronic. I ran new wires, & replaced instrument cluster. I put a 12v alt for the bus & also kept the 50dn 24v alt to run an inverter only. I removed the large outside relay panel and put a stip under the dash of 12vdc solid state relays. It made a nice job and I use all normal stuff. It's a lot of work but if you already have it all ripped out it is an option.
Ray |
Doug Dickinson (Dougd470)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 9:53 am: | |
Here is my viewpoint on the issue - I say that because this is about YOUR WAY, not mine, so take it with a grain of salt.
If the coach ran just fine on 24V, where is the benefit of converting to 12V? As was said, you have a big alternator already that can charge 24V house batts and the starter is already 24V. Those are two big ticket items. Then, to buy the correct senders and guages for the coach, you are going to get nickeled and dimed to death (that's five dollars and ten dollared to death). When all is said and done, will the cost be worth whatever benefit you receive?
I am going to convert the marker lights and tail lights to LED - I already started. It would be more accurate to say "converting to 24V over 12V since I will be putting a relay after the switch to keep everything 24V up to where the LEDs start, and then connect the 12V there. All in all, that part makes sense. I drop my entire load subtantially off the 12V side and get the maintenance benefit of LED lights. That's about as far as I am going on converting existing stuff over.
I also have a couple of accessories like the AM/FM radio and some ham radio gear that runs off 12V. That is all hooked up to the battery "split" to obtain the 12V. I have a vanner equalizer also.
I am planning on using some 12V stuff in the coach also, like a blower motor for the heat, and the refer in backup mode (120V while on the road via inverter and propane while boondocking), much of my interior lighting, and odds and ends. The coach batts will be 24V with a center tap and a vanner to keep them OK. I also have a regulated 12V supply to run things when connected to a power pole (20AMP continuous and 35AMP peak). This allows me to have both a backup in case I loose the vanner, and smooth power when possible.
The invertor will be 24V (Xantrax or whatever they call themselves now SW2440)running in parallel off the coach alternator on the road that lets me run TWO AC units on the road with the gen set shut off.
That's my way.
Doug
St Louis MC9 |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 12:10 pm: | |
One thing to consider. If you like to read in bed, like I do, make sure your reading light is 12/24 volt, not 120 vac. Having it 120vac means getting up and turning the inverter off when you are ready to go to sleep, or leaving the inverter running all night. Although it is not much of a load, anything helps while boon-docking.
Richard |
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