| Author |
Message |
Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2005 - 4:28 pm: | |
My MC8 has a 1/4" threaded plug in the axle end.
With the axle level, in what position does the axle have to be in order for that plug to match the level of the large plug on the differential housing? (Where lubricant is checked and added)
6-O'clock position?
Just thinking what that plug is for....if I can remove it to check differential lube level, would be lost easier that blocking the bus and scooting under. |
Bill K.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2005 - 6:20 pm: | |
I believe that it is just for adding gear lub for the wheel bearings after you have them out. so they are lubed right away and not run dry. May be wrong, and Iam sure if so I will soon hear. |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2005 - 11:09 pm: | |
Chuck, if your MC-8 has axles like our 4106, the wheel bearings are not lubed by the differential oil. That means that there are seals between the wheel bearings and the differential.
Which lube they need should be in your lubrication chart; some are run oil filled and some use wheel bearing grease. And sometimes, people change them from one to the other.
For most motorhomers, the lube of choice is wheel bearing grease. Oil is preferred mostly for rigs in steady service.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska |
Chuck Lott (Chuckmc8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 28, 2005 - 7:55 am: | |
Thanks, Tom and Bill K. I believe that you are both correct. The manual dosen't make this crystal clear (has to be that way for me!). In looking through my MCI manuals, the MC8 and MC5 maint books show only a lube type, and an indicator on the lube chart.These MCI manuals are the pits for details.
However, to MCI's credit, the 102 series manuals are much better, and explains this proceedure in detail. I'll relay as best I can:
At least on the 102D, and I believe the drive axle is basicailly the same Rockwell Standard.
2 types of drive hubs-
GREASE LUBRICATED HUB BEARINGS
OR
OIL LUBRICATED HUB BEARINGS
My concern here is for the oil filled, so there are two types of those,
A.FOR DRIVE AXLE HUBS WITH FILL HOLES
1.Fill hub with one pint (max.)(0.473 liters) of oil (same as used in the differential)directly into each hub through the fill plug hole. DO NOT OVERFILL
2.Check and refill differential housing if required.
3. DO NOT attempt to fill the differential through the hub fill oil hole. This could create an overfill condition causing oil to be thrown out the breather hole.
The 102 book has a nice cut-away illustration of the hub. It appears that the axle is rotated until the plug is straight up, or in the 12 O'clock position for filling, or , rotated down, or 6 O'clock for checking position.
Wish I had a scanner, I would post the illustration.
FOR DRIVE AXLE HUBS WITHOUT FILL HOLE
1.CHECK THE DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY AND LEVEL IF NECESSARY
2.FILL THE DIFFERENTIAL UNTIL THE LUBRICANT IS AT THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE FILL HOLE.
(sorry for the caps, I didnt see it was on)
3. Tilt the axle to the right and to the left to allow oil to flow into the hub cavaties.Appx one pint will be trapped in each cavity.
4. with the drive axle back in level position, add oil to the differential until it is at the bottom of the fill hole.
Seems to me that for the occasional use my coach gets, the grease bearing hubs would be better. I don't know if theres a difference in the inner oil seal for grease applications, rather than oil.
I have a variety of parts manuals, I'll reasearch and see.
Hope this helps someone else, too. |
HondoJoe04
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 11:00 am: | |
Howdy,
PLAN AHEAD to get new grease seal parts for:
The oil lube front & rear wheel seals WILL likely start to leak/fail in most probability guaranteed at SOME point.
Mine did & I made the BIG mistake to try to fix & stay with Oil Lube Seals. I even was DUMB enough to convert from grease to oil at one point!!
Still leaked with new seal as the "wiper" ring was damaged on bottom and tore up seal. Not just once or twice but many times on different wheels. This should have been caught & changed but the metal wiper ring is often not available when you need it...
The conversion seals/kit ARE DIFFERENT PARTS.
There is a important blocker ring/plate used to block out the oil lube from diluting the new wheel bearing grease. Also on my axle the wear surface was worn bad. There is a $Slip on/over wear ring to make this $Surface like new. Also another part not likely available when you need it.
I had all the parts when needed. Even had/used sythetic grease for repack. Did this work at SoOre Diesel shop. Lucky I had the parts & grease as they did not. I get most parts from JD at CJ Bus in Bloomington, MN. Yves is the parts man & # is 800-228-7349. If I am on the road & need a part fast I Pay$ the Price$ for Overnite delivery anywher in the USA.
I would think Luke would have all the parts neccessary for this important seal conversion but do not know for sure.
I still have one rear wheel bearing & seal using oil lube. I am waiting for it to fail & then tear down & replace with grease seals.
fwiw, The oil lube bearing runs 15-20* degrees cooler than the grease packed one.....
HondoJoe mc5/4104 |
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