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FAST FRED

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Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 6:10 am:   

I need a site that explains the method of sizing and mounting gas springs .

We have an engine hatch that is 7 ft long and 3ft wide, that with Soundown 2# per sq ft lead is really a pain to lift .

TIA

FAST FRED
Jim Stewart (H3jim)

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Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 9:32 am:   

FF,

I used Austin Hardware. You tell them how heavy the entire lid is, the length of the lid, and what your max opening angle is. They will determine the best gas spring to use, and compute the mounting points for you, no extra charge. They were a bit of a pain to deal with, but all that engineering for free, was well worth it to me. They faxed to me a page with the pertinent data. They do have a website that explains in general terms what's involved. I had to buy the mounting pins etc separately (but all from them). http://www.austinhardware.com/

I also bought a small rubber latch to hold it down so when I go over a bump, it does not auto lift.

Phone 800-821-1664, they may switch you around a little.
R.C.Bishop

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Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 10:02 am:   

Buyer beware.......I had the same experience with Austin....Good service....HOWEVER....it has not worked out well in my circumstance.

At the rear of my coach is a huge trunk...the door opens upward horizontally. I wanted to use the gas springs not only to help lift the door, which it does very nicely, but also to hold the door up when it is open, as in any trunk lid. Bottom line is that even in very hot weather the two springs do not hold the door even in a horizontal position. It is especially bad in colder weather.

My recommendation....use a spring that is weighted for at least twice as much as what they recommend. I have not talked with them about this, but there must be a way to correct the problem. My guess is the dead weight of this door, with lights, Steel skin, framing, etc must be a hundred pounds or more. I think they sent springs (2) rated for 125 pounds each.

FWIW

RCB
Sojourner (Jjimage)

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Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 8:53 pm:   

FF...click on http://www.acecontrols.com/PDF/GasSpringWeb.pdf
Calculation is on page 4 & 5.

Be sure to add correction factor in regard to area’s cold climate temperature and plus some if want to close without over center position.

The main thing is get total balance weight of cover or door or lid.

Caution…if cover or door or whatever is not balance evenly between outer most edge (not sides) to hinge or pivot portion then need to find that point. Set whatever cover or lid over a ½” rod or larger in parallel with pivot point until it balance. Take measurement from balance point to pivot point to establish Rw = ___inch.

If the above is not followed, you can have incorrect gas spring for your particular application that you not be happy with. Common problem for do-it-your-self-er.

Fill out “Application Information” and in “comments” window… mention your coldest operating temperature that you are happy with. Also if want over center closing, they will select “Y2” bracket heights.

For your information, gas spring weaken as it get older…7 to 10 years is life. They may increase some pound (increase human down force) to extend life longer.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
gusc

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Posted on Friday, November 04, 2005 - 10:26 pm:   

FF,

I used cylinders from an '86--'88 Dodge minivan on my 4104. I was in a big hurry getting ready for my first trip and just grabbed the first thing I found in the shop. They not only fit the old brackets exactly by length but lift the lid with no effort except the initial opening. It takes a bit of push to close but sure easier than lifting.

My only complaint is that the lid doesn't open high enough to clear my head (6'2") but it sure was a cheap, quick fix. I'll get to this later because it is going to take a lot more measuring and fitting.
FAST FRED

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Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 6:05 am:   

Thanks guys ,

this hatch cover must go about 115deg , but I have strong latches to hold it when open .

Its heavy NOW and the next step in noise controll is a heavy puropse made Soundown rug underliner , that I was 'fraid would make opening take a bolck & takle.

FAST FRED
ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)

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Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 9:56 am:   

Fred, Two years ago Denny 4104 posted some info on one of the boards on adjustable gas shocks from Service Plus Distributors, www.spdhardware.com , I think they may have what you are looking for. Try looking at part # gsvl-3100-250. I am planning on replacing all of my bay door shocks with these in the next few months.
Sojourner (Jjimage)

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Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 10:25 am:   

It not a good idea to use gas spring in heated compartment such as engine's hatch. Popular gas spring maximum operating temperature is 178º F. Also they don’t perform well via wide range of temperature such as 200º F to low -20º F variable.

However if for bedroom hatch, you can still use gas spring on “outboard” mounting type (outside of heated compartment) and will work fine. With heavy hatch may require extra pairs of G/S to support load range. Uses the longest G/S available to achieve your goal. Another word longer leverage.

Still need a safety pod link after open & to keep it up in very freezing condition.

Let face it, all seals (to contain leak) are limited to perform in narrow range of temperature. Seals in high temp too soft to control and in very cold are prone to crack & wear.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)

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Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 5:47 pm:   

I put gas springs on the engine hatch on DML and they worked great. The hatch was lead lined and very heavy. I also put gas springs on the mattress frame above the engine hatch to hold it up also.

I ended up ordering several different sizes from McMaster-Carr before I got it right, but once I did it was great. After getting both units right I then bundeled up all the unused springs and returned them to McMaster for a full refund.

They also have adjustable shocks, but be advised thay are adjustable one way only. You can let out air to reduce tension, but you can not put it back in. Please do not ask how I know.
Richard
gusc

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Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2005 - 9:06 pm:   

Jerry,

I don't think high temp is a problem on engine compartments. My wife's old Cad has gas cyl on the hood and I have only replaced one in 16 years.

When gas cyl start to weaken it is gradual and just requires more effort to raise and doesn't stay up as high. I've been replacing these things for years on my two minivans and have never seen one fail all at once. Even if it did there are two so there is no real dange.

My 4104 only raises about 80* so I am going to do some engineering on the linkage to get it higher.
Johnny

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Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 9:40 am:   

"It not a good idea to use gas spring in heated compartment such as engine's hatch."

The Spartan pusher at work uses 2 gas struts on the engine compartment hatch.
H3-40

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Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 7:19 am:   

Gas shocks are standard equipment on the bay doors AND the engine cover door on my H3. I haven't seen yet where the heat from the engine effects them! I couldn't imagine trying to lift it without the assist of the shocks becuase it's sort of heavy even with them! The bay doors are easy to lift while opening and close as well.

Ace

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