| Author |
Message |
Steve (Steve)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2005 - 11:37 pm: | |
I need some insight on what type of screws to use to apply plywood to the inside of my mci that won't vibrate loose over time and anything that I should do when installing this 1/2 inch baltic burch on the outside walls of the bus. Thanks, Steve |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2005 - 11:55 pm: | |
"installing this 1/2 inch baltic burch on the outside walls of the bus. "
Huh? |
Steve (Steve)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 12:13 am: | |
Sorry I should say on the inside of the walls |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 1:30 am: | |
I've been using simple home depot self drilling screws of all types, found in the specialty rows where you find truss screws...#8 or #10 for really heavy attachments.
So far three years, 10,000 miles, lots of ply and other wood attached to sheet metal and 1x1 tubing, nothing has even hinted of coming loose.
You might also consider some adhesive behind the wood if you're worried about things... I like sikaflex construction adhesive a lot... never comes loose, fairly easy to find (as opposed to the stuff you use for skinning which is expensive and amazingy hard to locate)
Just a few dabs here and there, no need for long beads 'cause the stuff is stronger than you can imagine. But I doubt it's necessary, just the screws work fine. |
David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 6:39 am: | |
Self drilling drywall screws # 6 X 1 5/8"
Pan head Self drilling screws
Button Head self drilling screws
most are designed for metal drywall studs.
Been using them for years, never had one come loose. Broke a few drilling through to stainless on occasion. Alternative for heavy, used 1/8" cobalt drill bit to drill hole and use # 8 stainless square head deck screws
There are others in # 10 and heavier that are self drilling that drill through the wood with a barb and then drill into the metal. Use those for super heavy stuff like attaching wood to tubing or support metal structures.
There are many ways to screw stuff up.. <grin>
Just takes a little ingenuity at times.... |
Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 7:21 am: | |
A note on drywall screws, which may be well known. The wide thread are for screwing into wood. Narrow thread are for screwing into metal.
I predrilled the holes, and used the narrow threaded drywall screws. Now, the drywall screws are still retained in the metal.
Ed Roelle
Flint, MI |
Cliff (Floridacracker)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 9:01 am: | |
I used the Grabber brand drywall to metal screws, self tapping, the tips were good enough for a second go round when I changed my mind(another reason to always use screws).
At your favorite home improvement store.
Cliff |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 9:11 am: | |
If you get only the square drive screws instead of the usual
Phillip head drive ones, you'll have a better time of it all. They
do a lot better, driving in, or undoing a mistrake. |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 10:14 am: | |
I don't like the drywall screws for two and a half reasons...
(1) they are too hard and tend to break when you really don't want them to, plus the thread style is nor correct for metal. They might work fine in a house and thin sheetmetal trusses, but not in busses for me!
(2) They rust because they are not coated with anything rust-proof.
The truss style self drillers that are bright plated are MUCH better, do not rust and are not so hard as to be brittle.
My experience with the square drives is ok, but the selection of screw and head types is minimal, and again, you're confined to drywall screws who will rust.
Phillips truss screws will virtually never strip if you use a decent driver tool.
I've literally got thousands of the phillips truss screws, all lenghts, all styles, inside AND outside on my bus, and no problems have cropped up. Almost every time I used a drywall screw i either changed it later or regretted it in one way or another, with exception of screwing wood to wood as in my bulkhead door and a wee bit of the cabinetry. But for wood to metal, the rust thing, the brittleness, and the wrong thread style makes drywall screws a bad choice in my mind....leave em in houses and use truss screws.... (an get the self drilling kind with built in drill bits, not the pointy ones) |
Dale MC8
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 12:05 pm: | |
For a good selection of square drive screws check out <mcfeely's.com> I have had good luck with all their products and, no, I have nothing to gain by this recommendation. FWIW
Dale MC8 |
Mike (Busone)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 12:18 am: | |
Dale, Thanks for the link. What a great resource. I did find some screws made for screwing wood trailer beds to steel truck frames.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/multiple.asp?ProductID=1224-F41 |
Jim Stewart (H3jim)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 9:50 am: | |
Here's where I admit to doing it the un approved way.
I used #6 gold drywall screws, and used a 3/32nd drill to predrill all the holes. I may regret going this route due to corrosion issues, but so far they sure work well. Maybe its where I live, but I have very little if any condensation on the ceiling.
I had no trouble with breakage of screws. I was breaking lots of drills when I started. I discovered that the lower RPM of the cordless drill I was using put too much torque on the small drill bit when it broke through. After I switched to a higher RPM drill, I had no bit breakage. |