| Author |
Message |
all2go
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 12:41 pm: | |
Does anyone have any ideas or sources for bearings and such to fabricate a slide for a Generator? I just bought a D905E Kubota engine powering a 6kw Generator head. Now I want to find some roller bearings and I beams or angle to weld up a slide. Please chime in with some ideas of how you have done it or would do it if you had to, or sources for the bearings.
Thanks all,
Andrew. |
H3-40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 12:52 pm: | |
Here's what I did!
http://groups.msn.com/AceRossiMotorsports/foolsgold.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=470
You can get the bearings from McMaster Carr. I had the channels bent to size, locally. Total cost of slide is approximately $250.00. Works great as I have had it in and out many times during the conversion. I can see where it will be very easy to service the genset while slid outward. I have locking pins when it is IN and OUT so as to not move in either direction.
http://groups.msn.com/AceRossiMotorsports/foolsgold.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=471
http://groups.msn.com/AceRossiMotorsports/foolsgold.msnw?Page=4 |
Chris 85 RTS
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 1:36 pm: | |
I decided to incorporate slides and vibration isolation into one. I used 4 tires from a handtruck, 8" I think, and built a frame for the genset to sit on, and the tires ride in steel C-channel. When in the normal position, the C-channel is in a rectangle that captures the tires and prevents any movement of the genset. I can then swing open the top of the c-channel, add any length extenstion I want, and roll the genet out over the back of the bus.
Here are pictures, about 3/4 of the way down the page:
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/cpeters1_32950/album?.dir=9dad&.src=ph&store=&prodid=& |
all2go
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 6:51 pm: | |
Ace and Chris, thanks. Those ideas and some from Fred Hobe are all I needed to conceptualize what I will do now. Great stuff!
Andrew. |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 8:06 pm: | |
If you go to any large electric motor repair shop, they have pails of used motor bearings. Every motor gets new bearings before it is put back together. The 6200 series bearings range from about 1 !/4" to 4" in diameter so you should be able to find some that will work.
Structural angle iron and channel are tapered on the inside flange but you can weld two pieces of angle together so that the inside edges are paralell to make the rails. Trim or space the angle to fit the bearings you have. |
Michael Malloy (Busnut06)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 8:59 pm: | |
Andrew,
I used 2.5" industial conveyor wheels (the kind ment to hang on a 3" I beam, 2 apposing). They fit perfectly inside 3" C-channel, made of plastic with ball bearings. I made a row of 9 on each side of the gen set with both the inside and outside frames about 16"longer than the equipment. I can roll the entire gen set completely out of the bay. It is similar to the pictures in the earlier posts. 10kw diesel
Michael |
John Jewett (Jayjay)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 10:39 pm: | |
Unistrut is available from electrical supply houses, and has ball bearing hangers/rollers that will do the job. Very compact and you should be able to fabricate a system for less than $75.00.
An alternative is to use the barn door rail system available at Lowe's or Home Depot. It takes a bit more headroom than the Unistrut system, but is quite cheap. Probably less than $50.00 for a system. Both are quick to install, reliable, and inexpensive to use.
Cheers...JJ |
David (Davidinwilmnc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 2:14 pm: | |
I'll most likely be using one from http://www.innovativeindustriesinc.com/ for my gen. and a full width one for my empty middle bay for general storage. I'm sure I can make one myself cheaper, but these aren't really priced all that high. |
all2go
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 10:20 pm: | |
Wow Guys, so many ways to do it. I liked the idea Chris had but don't have the height, cuts down on vibration though. David, thanks for the link but they are kinda expensive. It was nice browsing around the site though. JJ, yeah the unistrut and barn door hardware are two great ideas, I shoulda checked them out. Michael, conveyor wheels sound like they will do the job, especially 9 of them on each side. I would have preferred 3" "C" channel, the 2" looks kind of puny but I have been assured it will do the job. We'll see. Plus again the height was a consideration. Stan, you' re my kinda man. Used motor bearings, that is one I will remember for the next slide I fabricate. Especially after paying $137.40 for 8 Cam Followers. There is just something that much sweeter getting a job well done, efficiently and inexpensively. Instead of all the welding of angle to make channel (a great idea for the perfect fit and angle) I'll just grind a thick washer to achieve the right tilt of the Cam Follower for the angle of the channel.
I made out like a bandit anyway though. I was in a hurry because I haven’t anywhere to store the Genset and it has to go in the Coach pronto (rain was forecast for Sun. and Mon.). So after I read the first two posts and found Fred Hobes slide fabrication page I ordered some Cam Followers (McGill CF-1 3/8" SB) from Motion Industries that afternoon at 4pm...they arrived the next day at lunch :-). They were kind of expensive I guess, just under $16.00 each, other brands were $18.00+) and they don't even come with the nut and washers for the ends. Anyway I was still happy. I ran out to the local hardware store and bought some 2" channel and the nuts, lock washers and washers for the Cam Followers. Total invested was $221.90. I got home and welded up the channel into a rectangle after measuring and put two cross braces to bolt the Generator to. I already had some 2 1/2" angle for the anchor rails, drilled the holes for the cam followers in the angle, took it all out to the Coach and fit it in the Heat/AC Bay. It looked good and fit nicely. Then as usual one thing turns into 10 other things and I decided the bay should be insulated before I get all that mounted and in the way. So I pulled up the thin aluminum subfloor/drip pan and was glad I did. Under it was damp, rotten, old Fiberglas insulation. I removed it all and the condensation drip fixtures etc. Tomorrow I will hit Lowes for some foam block, contact cement and plywood. I have some urethane to seal the plywood with. I'll cut some steel pipe for spacers around the anchor bolts, drill the holes and insulate and lay the plywood floor. Then I'll insulate the walls with 1" foam, cover that with some 20-gauge galv. paint grip. Build a chase around the control cable and pipes in the roof of the bay, insulate said roof, add the 20 gauge paintgrip and bang, now I am ready to mount the anchor rails and finish the slide installation that started all this. Whew! It's only a 36" wide by 90" long by 39" high space and both ends will still be open where the bay doors are grilled and louvered for airflow. I am hoping the insulation will cut down on noise in the Coach? Is it all worth it? Now I am wondering after all that description. I could build a wall between the start batteries and the Generator. Then the noise would only exit the driver’s side. Hmm, a little more work...
Andrew. |
H3-40
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 7:48 pm: | |
Well I put the slide out into a test today when I went to hook up my new oil pressure and water temperature gauges for the Generator. It was actually pretty easy on both accounts. After disconnecting the exhaust coupler that Fred Hobe turned me on to, it, the generator, radiator and fan assy slid out far enough for me to safety lock the wheels and do what I intended to do. Oh and while I had it out, I finally was able to replace the capacitor in the fan due to the wrong one being sent to me last week. Aftr running it for about 20 minutes, the oil pressure gauge read a steady 55 lbs with no load. I didn't get the water temp gauge hooked up which leads me to my next question. The 12.5kw genset has an auto cut-off when it overheats. The new water temp gauge came with it's own sending unit but I hesitate to replace the exisitng sending unit because of the auto shut-off. The new unit has one wire where as the existing unit has two. I don't see any other provision for a second sending unit. I will call Wrico in the AM and see what they say but unitl then, any ideas?
I did check the thermostat housing using a digital temp gun and it read a steady 170 degrees. I don't know what the thermostat is rated at. When I checked the outside of the radiator from top to bottom with temp gun I got readings of 120 degrees at top and 95 at bottom. I hope this is a good sign! Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Ace... moving forward with kitchen. It looks like about Wednesday or Thursday before I can get some good updated pics but so far the plans look great! |
Fred Mc
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 1:15 am: | |
Actually, as far as channel having tapered inside edges this is an advantage when using bearing that run inside the channel. The taper actually makes the bearing run easier and centered. I've used such a setup for 10 years on a daily basis in my truck and it works great.
Fred Mc. |
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