| Author | Message | ||
| pat young
Rating: |
Howdy I've changed many a tire, I've never paid for it. I'm too cheap. May I suggest a better solution than those neat high tech (low tech?) 4 X 1 torque generating force multipliers at $260 bucks? I'd love to own one, I just think there is a more practical and useful tool for the same price. I spent about 270 bucks, and got a nice 3/4 drive air gun. Mine is Ingersoll Rand, but I think Chicago Pneumatic makes something similar. The model is a 255, I think I just put a ten dollar hose into one of the air tanks of my bus (the one farthest from the compressor) and use that to change my tires. Since the gun is only 700 lbs in forward, it may take a little extra time to get all the driver's side lugs loose, but if you got good air, especially 130-150 lbs, it will take them off like a 1" drive gorilla sized air gun. (this model has 900 ft. lbs in reverse, but its forward is pretty strong too) The hose just literally screws into the bottom of any air tank that I've seen. You just teflon tape the male end, and thread it directly into the bottom of your chosen tank. ALSO spend the extra 8 bucks and make your air fitting on the "output" end a universal type. I didn't know there were THREE different types of air fittings made until I need to borrow shop air at a school and None of my tools would fit their air hoses. The universal chuck ensures that even if a friendly mechanic or somebody stops to help you in an emergency, the fitting in their air tools will be copacetic with your system. I've changed tires literally in a half an hour alongside the road, and it is real comforting to know that wherever you go you don't have to fear being stranded. The gun isn't too heavy on the wrists or back, and pretty straighforward to use even for first timers. The farthest tank from the engine rarely has a lot of water, but it's easy just to bleed it periodically. I also Never Use my air guns without putting 20 drops of oil or so in them. It's only motor oil, but I figure I'm protecting my investment. If your lugs are overtightened already, and you want to make sure the 3/4 gun will take them off for the first time, just put WD40 on the lug nuts a couple of times before you do it, and then wait awhile. Then they will come off easily with the IR gun, and you can put them back on with anti-seize, at the proper torque, and the next time tire change is a snap. Another cool advantage to purchasing the air gun is that the relatively compact gun is available to use for everything else on your bus. I haven't found a bolt yet that it would not spin off. Happy bussin' Pat Young Fresno, CA 1970 Gillig Splendocruiser Spicer 5 speed --fully manual Powered by 8V79.5 CAT NA 4 wheel drive (the back ones) | ||
| Jon W. Rating: N/A |
I may be wrong, but everyting I have read cautions against using anything on the wheel studs or nuts. All torque values usually are dry values. | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Use anti-seize on wheel nuts? (hoo-boy) | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Rating: N/A |
My experience is that anti-seize on lug nuts dries out over time and builds up in the root of the threads. This over time can cause stress to the fine threads and eventually cause the threads to start wearing out or stripping out of the studs/ nuts.I haven't used it for several years now because of this. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Rating: N/A |
Pat, I think you should use regular air tool oil, it is cheap and appears to be the same as Marvel Mystery Oil. It is nothing like motor oil and may foul the air wrench motor. I also agree that anti-seize is not good on lug threads. I use it between duals but not on threads. The best thing for breaking loose lug nuts is a 4-way wrench and then you can use a 1/2 air wrench to get them off and on. If you use a quick connect fitting on an air tank, especially on a tank in the brake system, be sure to isolate it with a shutoff valve so if the fitting springs a leak you don't lose your air. These female fittings are bad to stick open. The easy way to drain the water from this same tank is to make a double ended male fitting that plugs into the female fitting. This way you don't need to remove the quick connect female fitting to blow the water out. | ||
| pat young
Rating: N/A |
Howdy Gents. thanks for all the useful comments. I just thought about it, and I guess anti seize is for reassembling stuff, I never knew it built up and caused problems, so thanks for the heads up. The lug nuts I am generally dealing with have been on for several years. The equipment I am working with (old school buses) may have had the same tire on for years, some have been sitting, and may have the original studs from the factory. I think most of them at one time or another have been overtightened. Usually about half of them won't go back on by hand, and I won't use an air gun unless I can get a half dozen clean turns on the threads. Lately I've been using a drop or two of motor oil on the stud, and then if need be spin it on and off slowly at a low power setting on the gun. When they will go on with my hands, or at least start the first half dozen threads or so, I know they're on straight, so then I use the air gun, which should give me 700 lbs of torque. If you are getting resistance from semi rusted lug nuts and/or studs, if the only method to get true torque to wire brush each nut, and stud, and then put them on dry? The idea of anti seize, or a dab of wheel bearing grease was give to me by a mechanic friend, and has worked well on my bus, but I would welcome some other opinions. What exactly is the "best method" for working on and with 25-35 year old steel rims? thanks Patrick Young Fresno, CA | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
I have found to get a better torque clamping to run the lug nut on all the way on each stud , then remove them and put on the wheel on the now clean & dry slightly more smooth studs. The nuts should go on so there are at least 2 full threads sticking out when torqued. AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH for the final twist. X 10 does it all but slowly , the tinest air wrench will run the nuts off & on , to be properly torqued as last steps.. FAST FRED | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Rating: N/A |
Also - 700 ft lbs. of torque is WAY TOO MUCH!! Most specs for bus wheels are 450 lbs. OK to burp them on gently with the air gun, but use a GOOD torque wrench for final tightening. FWIW, RJ PD4106-2784 Fresno CA | ||
| jimmci9#2 Rating: N/A |
i doubt very seriously that the gun actually puts out 700 ftlbs.. i have a 1" ingersol that i use to tighten flywheels on 6.25 bore caterpillar engines.. the 1" finethread bolts torque to over 800 and its all my 1" can do to achieve this... its advertised at 1100 and i'm running it on a 1/2" hose...my 1/2" ingersol air impacts are advertised at over 600, but they won't break a bolt torqued to 600 loose...i figure the 3/4 is good for 450 or so..... ive used my new 3/4 to remove wheels from my kenworth haul truck...it does it, but you really gotta be patient and hammer.... | ||
| Jack Gregg (Jackinkc)
Rating: N/A |
A very good way to restore threads on both the lug nuts and the studs is to use a thread restoration file. They cost about $15 and do a good job. Each file has eight different faces for different threads. The file has “teeth” that fit in between each thread. The file can be used length wise inside the nuts or sideways across the studs. Jack In KC |
