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Cliff (Floridacracker)

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Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 3:02 pm:   

I know we have hashed this flooring option many times, but I discoverd a tool that helps on the install.

While replacing the flooring in my sons room today, I ran into a problem in the closet(small) where I could not use the standard s-bar used for pulling the pieces together in a tight spot(like everywhere in a conversion) I thought I could maybe get a flat screwdriver to squeese in their and pull it backward.

Well low and behold I find the perfect tool in my tool box. An automotive trim removal tool. I bought a set of these at Harbor Freight and they have a wide blade with a 45 deg angle. Just slid it in, lifted, piece pulled tight, Worked perfect.

Anyway, just wanted to pass on my discovery.

Cliff
H3-40

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Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 4:31 pm:   

Cliff next time you get in a tight spot try using a strap. They make them just for installing laminates! You just crank it tight after hooking on opposite edges!

Ace
Cliff (Floridacracker)

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Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 2:27 pm:   

Ace,

Looked one up online after your post, very neat.

Thanks for another good idea.

Cliff
Jack Gregg (Jackinkc)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 11:50 am:   

Floor Strap from Harbor Freight

I just put a Pergo “floating floor” in the bedroom. We stapled down ¼ plywood to make sure we had a level surface then laid the foam vapor/ sound/ thermo barrier. We made sure we had a straight edge to start from and then glued the strips together as we went. The 3/8 product was not snap-together but hand pressure and an occasional hammer tap seemed to be enough to keep it together.

More than a little water on this product will soak into the joints – bad deal. Has anyone put polyurethane on top to seal it?


Jack In KC
H3-40

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 2:59 pm:   

Water4 is the main reason a lot of people here in Florida are shying away from the laminated productrs. They are mostly made of a high end particle board with a laminate coating. Water and particle board don't mix! I have seen so many floors installed and then replaaced due to water seepage. I have even seen the laminate planks swell and buckle from the moisture in the glue being used on the seams or joints. It's only a mtter of time when this stuff is gone for good IMHO!
As for coating the product you have with some sort of urethane to seal it? I would be against it for the same reason explained above but you might get lucky for a while before anything stupid happens! I would recommend doing it!

Ace
H3-40

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 2:59 pm:   

Correction!

I WOULD NOT recommend doing it!
Cliff (Floridacracker)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 8:11 pm:   

Jack,

Two things are key to this product;

#1 is manufacturing process.

Sealed edges, glueless(replace pieces if needed)

#2 is use it only in (normally) non wet locations.

Bedroom, livingroom, OK. Kitchen, Bath, Laundry room, entry ways or anywhere lots of potential for standing moisture.

I installed about 600 sq ft in my living area two years ago and no problems. That with two under 10 kids giving it their best shot, spillage etc...Did I mention the puppy!

Don't get me wrong though, if you spill something you have to wipe it up-NOW, you have to use a rung out damp mop, not a wet mop.

FYI-I used the Shaw Versalock.

I agree with Ace that water and this product are not friends.

I like the product, but I am leaning towards a prefinished sealed hardwood floor for my coach.

Enough of my rant,Now to your question.

NO, dont seal it, it needs to breath.

Cliff
Cliff (Floridacracker)

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Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 3:52 am:   

Correction:
Kitchen, Bath, Laundry room, entry ways or anywhere lots of potential for standing moisture-NOT OK.
Athala Cevallos

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Posted on Tuesday, April 04, 2006 - 6:08 pm:   

I have been told there is a tool use to remove/replace a piece on a laminated floating floor. Is there such a tool and where can I buy it?

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