| Author |
Message |
Steve (Steve)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 9:54 am: | |
I'm trying to cover over the old floor which is in good condition, with 1/2" water proof one side satin finished plywood. Question- I would like to use the double foil face bubble wrap in between the floors and use contact cement to glue the floors togeather, running the 4x8 sheets from side to side with a glued 1 inch spline in the edge.Then bolt it and screw it like the factory work. Then insulate the floor fron the under side. Or should I NOT use the foil and use some other type of material and glue between the old and new wood? Or just some type of glue. I DON'T WANT ANY FLOOR SQUEEKS OR MOLD IN BETWEEN THE FLOORS!Can I get some advice from the experts Thanks!! Steve |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 3:38 pm: | |
Be sure and remove the linoleum from the floor that's there first. I used a latex type flooring glue and also air nailed the floor with brads. I do not have any squeaks after thousands of miles of use. I'm not sure that bubble wrap foil would be very stable sandwiched in a floor as you have proposed.
FWIW
Dave D
(MC-8)
FWIW |
Christopher Goodwin (Cgoodwin)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 6:09 pm: | |
I just did my floor with bamboo, I troweled "Bostics Best" adhesive on and air nailed as well, I went right over the lenolium in a few places. I have had to remove one board since installing to make room for a cabinet. It took me 2 hours with a chisel and a mallet to remove one 6' board 4" wide. This stuff will still be there when the bus is a memory! I would scrap the bubble foil idea and put insulation under the floor rather than between. Remember that the spline joint will be a weak point and use good ply, the more plys the better.
IMHO
Chris
www.frybrid.com/bus.htm |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 6:56 pm: | |
I read, on this board, a long time ago to put visquene/plastic film between the layers to seal and to keep them from squeaking. The info came from a respected member of the board, but I don't know how well it works. That said, I'm going to do it on mine. It sounds like a good idea.
Ed Jewett |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 9:18 pm: | |
Bubble wrap between layers of flooring?
Step *pop* *pop* *pop*
Step *pop* *pop*
Step *pop* *pop* *pop* *pop*
Yeah, nice. I think I like it.
Seriously.... That's exactly what they sell to be used under
free-floating, nailed, or stapled flooring. They also sell a much
better grade, made out of rubber, It's twice as expensive, but
lasts longer (doesn't wear flat), and makes the floating type
flooring sound like real wood. I don't think I'd use it under
(or between) the sub flooring.
But you can also use tarpaper if you're going to nail, screw, or
staple it. Use nothing, if you're going to glue it....
In our last RV, I was told that nails will squeak after time. So,
they used glue instead of nails for hardwood floor. The glue
did not adhere properly in several places and the flooring lifted.
The sub floor was best grade ply and screwed over the original
RV floor. For whatever reason, the sikaflex did not adhere
properly. My guess is the heat from the drying process lifted
the flooring just above the glue, preventing it from holding.
Weighting it may have prevented that from happening.. Keep
that in mind if you go that route.
As far as mold? If you look inside that ductwork on a bus, the
sight should give you nightmares if you're worried about mold.
What You Need to Know About Hardwood Flooring
Floor Soundproofing Help |
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 12:43 am: | |
John
The "floor soundproofing help" looked impressive.
Are you figuring on a 14" or a 16" roof raise?
Ed |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 7:54 am: | |
HAR.
Yeah, but boy is it gonna' be quiet! |
Kevin Wood
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 9:26 am: | |
Dave D.
When you put your floor over the old, did you have to use furing strips to raise the new floor over the chair rails? I am looking at this right now but I'm a bit concerned about hills in the plywood as it goes over the existing chair rails. How did yours turn out?
Thanks,
Kevin Wood |
Steve (Steve)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 11:25 am: | |
Yes, I plowed out a 1/8" deep x 1-5/8" wide grove on the under side of the new wood then removed the rubber in the track and the old rubber surface, cleaned the track and old floor then used water proof spray foam to fill the track void then used spray rubber under coating to seal the cracks between the track and the old wood, then under coating on the groves and the side edges on new wood and old wood plus tight bond water proof wood glue on the rest of the surface, while the spray foam is still expanding I layed the sheet down and screwed it to the seat track frame rails with 2" flat head teks self tap screws starting at the inside,side of the track rails so not to interfere with the bay door springs and cables. Then screwed to the 2 center rails with the same metal screws.Also I ran a 1/8" x 1/2" deep dado in the edge of each sheet with a hard wood spline glued to make tongue and grove so the seams lay flat. Also I screwed the sides down with coated wood screws. Then in the bays I drilled 1/4" holes up through the the bay wall angles and the outside rail angles through the two floors and bolted the two floors to the bay wall angles and the side rail angles and the center cross rails. Like the factory using flat gripper head bolts and lock nuts. So far the double floor is very solid and this helped increase the floor frame strenght to the bay walls to the the bay floors and lower frame which also recieved stainless bolts instead of rivets. Now if I need to use the seat track to bolt something down solid I can drill through and clean out the foam for access to the track. Like wall to floor gusset rods in my wall partitions or bolting down other things solid. What do Ya think? |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 4:44 pm: | |
I used luan plywood that brought the floor level flush with the top of the rails and installed it on each side of the rails, leaving them exposed. In the bedroom, they are under the bed platform except at the foot of the bed. We have a side aisle design and in the bath room, I put down an additional layer of luan over the layer that was flush with the rail so that the rail was covered up, then installed vinyl flooring. In the living area, as well as at the foot of the bed, the carpet underlay covers the rails and you do not see or feel them at all. In the case of the driver's side, they are under the sofa anyway. In the galley area, I installed parquet flooring over my subfloor and this spans the rail where the dinette is with no problem. On the side where the base cabinets are, the rail is beneath the cabinet and happens to line up exactly with the brackets on the 18" wide dishwasher I installed, I re-used two T-bolts to fasten the front of the dishwasher frame to the rail (also lag screwed it to the floor at the back of the frame). The bases for the two swivel chairs in the living area, as well as the sofa frame are fastened to the rails as well using T-bolts. I also retained the side channel and welded brackets that go from the back of the sofa frame as well as from the chair bases to further secure them using T-bolts. This has given a very solid attachment for these seats, which have seat belts on them. After using the bus for a while we found that the one swivel chair needed to be moved closer to the base cabinets to make the livng area more comfortable and this was easily accomplished by cutting a new slot in the carpet over the rail. I then moved the front T-bolt to that location and relocated the whole assembly further to the rear (I kept the rear-most T-bolt where it was and just moved the base back so that the front hole in it now fits over that bolt, and slid the T-bolt in the side channel to line up with the relocated bracket. This was an easy adjustment and the small cut in the carpet from the first location is not visible.
Dave Dulmage |
sdh3
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 11:40 pm: | |
We also put luan down on top of tar paper just to have a clean finished sub-floor. We screwed it down. Unfortunately we are getting many "pop sounds". I thought maybe we didnt have enough screws, so I put in more. It has helped, but still have some poppy areas. UHG! I dont know if the luan or the tar paper...or both... is the problem. We have a few walls up, so we dont feel we can take the floor up, but...not quite sure what to do. |
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