| Author | Message | ||
| tom schlater (Cecilguitar)
Rating: N/A |
1. How universally is the National Electical Code adhered to in bus conversions, and in RVs in general? 2. How important is a leveling system to an all-electrical refrigerator? (The guy who installed ours in our home said it was critical) 3. As their is the "National Electrical Code" for the electric plant, is there a similair code for plumbing, and, if so, how universally is it followed? Thanks. | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A |
NEC should be followed for safety and insurance reasons. Compressor type units are not generally sensitive to being off level. Only some of the LP Gas units can get finicky. But by that time you will keep rolling off the bed...  Your Generator and Inverter systems should be made using U.L. rated equipment that is built to N.E.C requirements. ( Most is approved and has a label ). The N.F.P.A. has a set of guidelines on materials and application of many RV rated materials. Plumbing is usually done using standard house or RV/Marine supplies and methods vary by who puts it all together in the conversion. If you build using RV accepted equipment its easy to make it all work. If you need to know how to do something all you have to do is ask here on the boards. | ||
| tom schlater (Cecilguitar)
Rating: N/A |
Exactly the the type of response I was looking for. Thank you, Dave. Meanwhile, I found and downloaded (for $30.00) NFPA 1192, "Standard on Recreational Vehicles" 2005 edition from http://www.nfpa.org Last week I bought the 2005 edition of NFPA 70, the "Nationl Electrical Code". So now I'm all set, right? (that should give you 30 year bus vets a chuckle) Ho! Ho! Ho! | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Tom - This will conflict with other's comments, but.... what the #^&%$! -To the best of my knowledge, your collision/fire/theft on the vehicle will cover any loss (regardless of reason), as long as the loss was not intentional (to collect ins). If your bus (fire/explosion) causes damage to others, it doesn't matter what caused it, you are still liable, and your basic liability insurance covers your liability. Check with an attorney, -not- an insurance agent or "pal". -All refrigerators should be level when in operation. Most all modern compressor types utilize defrost cycles, and evaporate the condensation. The moisture will not gravitate to the proper place for evaporation, if it's too far out of level. (check with an appliance repair shop) -I've found very, very serious wiring problems in both commercially made motorhomes we've owned. Romex run between wall and frame and had consequently shorted (one romex melted). I found wall frame screws through romex - Neutrals and grounds tied together at chassis entry for shoreline... more... Plumbing problems? Lack of proper waste venting, etc. Roof fan (reversible) mounted within inches of waste vent.... more.. Much of the errors with both motorhome's wiring and plumbing could have been avoided, if the worker knew -why- things were to be done in a certain manner. Maybe the fan vent wouldn't have been placed next to the sewer vent....! It's by far better to learn and understand what the code is asking for; learn the reasons why, than to blindly follow a script. No "code" is written in granite. Codes are modified and changed, usually after enough complaints are received by the board that's written the specific code. Knowing "why" the code was suggested will give you the knowledge to be able to do the job in the best manner, even with improvising. Dave's suggestion regarding the use of RV accepted equipment is a good idea. It's easy to follow the commercial builders. But there are less expensive parts you could use also, so learning what others here have gotten to work, can be very beneficial! Very knowledgeable people right here on this BB can lead you in the right direction, with explanations with "hows" and "whys". (I'm not one; I'm a rookie) Never be afraid to post a question. | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A |
Please keep in mind that the rules as written can be very confusing and sometimes you kinda have to adapt what you are doing for your application. There are distinct differences in the basic codes used in house construction and the electrical part is the one that drives most people nuts until they get a little guidance. Some of the codes are very specific when it comes to ventilation and handling of LP Gas tanks and lines. Others that are not apparent would be supplying fresh cooling air flow for battery areas and inverter locations. You kind of have to engineer your own systems into place and try to make sure that everything you do will be safe to use. Waste tanks must be vented through the roof. Generators must have fresh clean air to run properly and safely, Their location and method of installation must be vented and piped properly to get rid of exhaust gases and excess heat. Inverter batteries should be fused at the battery end of any cables so that if you short a cable the fuse will help avert a fire. Smoke detectors and Carbon monoxide detectors are required and compartment fire detectors (temp sensors) are a good idea. If you plan on carrying LP Gas for a stove, water heater or fridge you will also need an automatic LP Gas detector with automatic shutoff valve. A backup camera system is the best investment that you can make. I have two, One pointed at the back of my bus looking down at the trailer hitch area and the other looking back at my trailer. Good mirrors and large spot mirrors are also a great help so that you can see around you clearly. Well, That's just a few... Dave.... | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa)
Rating: N/A |
One thing I would like to add is the "search" feature in the archives. If you haven't found this yet. Most of the questions you have, may have already been answered and stored in the archives. On the left side of the screen is a menu, under the Utilities heading the first option is "search". I use it a lot, it really helps. Ed Jewett | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
If the code was "LAW" every Custom Coach and most other "big name" conversions would be ILLEGAL. Have toured quite a few , and all chose Boat Wire for a superior electrical instalation. AS many also chose boat breakers and fittings. Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Rating: N/A |
Except mine which tried to follow aircraft standards. | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Aircraft wire is far from weather proof enough for a coach. It also is expected to be in a wire loom, more work than most will do. FAST FRED | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A |
Most aircraft wire is teflon coated jacket over silver plated copper strand. At least it was when I worked on avionics making and installing wire harnesses for airnav and autopilots. Ohhh. That just made me remember a lot of the things that I have done through my life and yet I still have trouble remembering peoples names that go with faces. And I still don't know what I want to be when I grow up. I doubt I ever will. | ||
| mikeEMC
Rating: N/A |
ok i hear you all lol...the bus i bought was wired in romex thats why it burned out and a few others i looked at (poor instalation procedures ) i use stranded wire in sillicone shethed outerlater like extentioncord.works great and weaterproof (still use good proper installation methods as to gromet when going through metal parts) | ||
| John MC9 Rating: N/A |
Oh-Ooh "like extention cord" Read the tags on extension cords. They all say quite clearly, "not for use in confined spaces", or inside walls. I see this being done all the time, but it's just another reason for folks to not buy a used home conversion. | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A |
Mike, why would a bus wired in Romex burn out? Because of the Romex, or because of poor wiring techniques? It would seem that if everything was done properly, Romex would not be a problem. Richard | ||
| T. (Bluegrass)
Rating: N/A |
I have a bus conversion that has been wired In part Romex for 19 years with no problems, I am so comfident that It Is good that I am wireing my new conversion In nothing but Romex. Tony | ||
| David Hartley (Drdave)
Rating: N/A |
old water hose or heater hose makes a nice grommet for going through metal partitions. Lots of tie wraps with screw down loops works nicely too for tying up wire bundles. Romex only causes problems if you use the push-in holes on the back of outlets and switches. Always use the screws! Yeah' its more work but worth it for best connections. #12/3 Romex works for me. 12/4 if I need a dual circuit run. D.C. circuits should always use stranded wire such as marine types. Not that "thhn" electrical wire as it gets tough and too few strands to carry d.c. efficiently. It also creeps out from under terminals and crimps to easily. | ||
| motorcoach1
Rating: N/A |
this is mikeEMC don't get me wromg romex is geart when installed properly. I've just seen to many poor jobs and bad connectinos and vibration is a real hazard and people who like to staple wire in. mikeEMC | ||
| motorcoach1 Rating: N/A |
PS the wire i mentioned is some left overs from a company that does industrial marine work . it's not extintion cord (i don't everrecomend the use of it and have in the past ript it out. it is a shethed marine type 250v cable rated at 600v and have some 408v high frequency cable used in the submarine construction field as to hasardus enviorment locations. i just feel that there are better alteratives but the rv feild is just not big enought for manufactures to make wire for this pacifict field, so many of us are stuch with romex and automotive wiring. the thing i read a while back was the auto industry was looking at better wire sence there is more electrial useage in automobiles than there was 20 years ago withall the onboard computers sterios and new lighting gps and pw windows and the list goes on. so i guess the the wire has to improve and hopefuly the 110v wire will follow . just a thought thank you ..mike |