| Author |
Message |
Nick Morris (Nick3751)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 5:24 pm: | |
I'm looking into putting some sort of heat to my chasis batts for cold weather. I've heard some talking about waterbed heaters and I've seen a Kats battery warmer at advace auto. What type stuff have ya'll used and what else can you think up? |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 5:38 pm: | |
Must be really cold weather you're planning for. For most of the Lower US, I though just keeping them charged was enough.
Well, now to sit back and read . . . |
Nick Morris (Nick3751)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 5:58 pm: | |
Mine 6-71 doesn't like starting without either below about 40. I've got a block heater that keeps the whole engine compartment about 60-65 and it still won't crank so I'm going to warm the batteries. Plus I'm planning on being in NW Ohio and the nights can get to below 0 there. |
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 7:13 pm: | |
Sounds like you might have other problems....A working block heater should make it start like summertime even if it gets pretty cold.Weak batteries or bad connections? |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2005 - 8:25 pm: | |
Nick,
Maybe check the connections, especially the grounds. Have you put an amp meter on the start cables to see what the starter was drawing?
I learned my lesson years ago with my 6.2L diesel. Turned out the starter was goin' south and really drew lots of amps (but still spun, not just fast enough, which is really necessary for a diesel as that what makes combustion heat.
Now I have a hand held tachometer for these and similar issues |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 5:32 am: | |
A properly installed block heater will work (to make starting instant) till well below 10F.
Probably will work with even lower temps but I haven't done that, yet.
Install one in the water jacket , you will love the results , as will your coach. $75 or so.
FAST FRED |
Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 12:47 pm: | |
I picked a block heater for my MC8 somewhere on eBay for about half that price. FYI
Dale MC8 |
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 8:56 pm: | |
Hello Nick.
Since highway coaches usually have the batteries installed in sheltered locations, the trucker's trick of insulating the battery box is of little value to us, however, if your batteries are somewhere exposed, closing them in with some insulation will help.
As you have found, auto suppliers will sell you a vinyl clad battery blanket that plugs in like an electric blanket, warming the battery that it is wrapped around.
I am aware of some who have positioned a small radiator in the battery compartment, heated by their coolant furnace.
I agree with the other posts, you should find the source of this engine starting problem.
happy coaching!
buswarrior |
Ron Frazier (Ron_4104)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 19, 2005 - 10:21 pm: | |
When I had a 671 in my 4104 it didn't want to start in really cold weather, even with block heater. I put in a new starter and it started below 0 with the block heater like it was summer time. I had fought the problem for a long time and spent enough money trying to have it diagnosed. Was always told everything was ok. I never did believe it because it never seem to turn over like other 671 engines. Had to change batteries too often, so I had the starter rebuilt. That must have been a bad rebuild because it didn't work. Finally took the rebuilt starter off and took it to Ft. Pierce desiel traded for a new one . Problem solved! |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 12:55 am: | |
Ron,
That's what an amp meter on the starter cables will tell you, up front, without a bunch of expensive R&Ring.
Onward and Upward |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 5:56 am: | |
"That's what an amp meter on the starter cables will tell you"
But to read over 1000A on a 12V system it will be a pricy toy.
Simplest is the modern "technician" method , replace the starting cables and be REAL SURE of the quality of the chasis ground.
Copper works best,
FAST FRED |
edwin b willis (Edwin_b)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 11:54 am: | |
Does anyone know anything about the engine heating pads? They sound easy to install and heat the whole engine. Just glue to the oil pan!
thanks
edwin b 4101-250 |
Stan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 12:10 pm: | |
High current DC tong (clamp) meters are bow quite inexpensive. One dealer who sells at FMCA conventions sells the complete meter for about $150.00 or just the clamp for about half of that, if you already have a digital volt meter. Mine reads up to 2000 amps. Since these meters will also read quite accurately down in the single digit range, they are very handy for troubleshooting the various systems on the bus. Buy a meter and learn how to use it instead of replacing high priced starters, alternators etc that have nothing wrong with them. |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 12:55 pm: | |
A cheezy but useful (and accurate) way around the high current thing would be to use, for example, two identical wires (length and gauge) instead of one to the starter motor. The current will share between the two fairly equally. Then you can measure the current in only one and double the number for your true current. You can extend this scheme to four wires, and your 2000 amps is now readable with a 500 amp meter...etc... |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2005 - 11:27 pm: | |
Gary-
Man, do you make my head hurt! |
Tim Strommen (Tim_strommen)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 2:37 pm: | |
Of course you could take a measurement of the resistance of the starter wires, then measure the voltage drop accross the wire (just like a shunt) - or you could get a shunt...
E
---
I|R
E = Potential (in Volts)
I = Current (in Amps)
R = Resistance (in Ohms)
Examples for how to solve:
E/R = I
E/I = R
I*R = E
Cheers!
-Tim |