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captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 12:35 am:   

Since I can't use the old furnace out of the 4905 I'm getting a brand new one. I don't know the brand but it is a 35,000 btu forced air unit. it has all the access from the outside panel which seems nice in a way. It appears to have 5 duct outlets. you can see it on www.orrorr.com I'm getting it for $534.00

I'm tearing out the electrical stuff that JJ did such a nice job on (sorry JJ) and reusing it in the new bus. shoud I go to a 50 amp panel this time? That would be the only thing I would change.
I like the way JJ did every thing and will reinstall it pretty much the same. I may add another small true sine inverter as my printer does wierd stuff on the old one. and some how have it only run that receptical that my high dollar recording stuff and printer is on.

I'm going to reuse my cabinets and diamond plate tops and doors. laying out the new bus the same as the old one pretty much, it works well enough.
not going to use the oven though will get a 3 or 4 burner cook top only.
I'm not going to use tounge and groove on the ceiling though it's to unstable and looks bad

as I was working on the prevost today I saw what they used for insulation its a silver backed material. any body know any thing about it? kind of looks like a solar blanket.
David Hartley (Drdave)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 7:41 am:   

I certainly hope that you understand about those furnaces that install from the outside?

You have to cut a huge honkin hole in the side of your coach and they are almost impossible to seal up and keep sealed from the elements leaking through to the inside. The covers leak and require constant attention to make sure the gaskets are in the proper place whenever you open the cover.

They can also be tampered with by hooligans very easily or even stolen.

The fans are noisey and they don't put out enough circulating air for most bus conversions from my own experiences. I installed several in motorhomes and a bus and was not tickled at the installation or performance.

Dave....
David Dulmage (Daved)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 7:48 am:   

Wow... That was pretty negative, a real joy sucker. Water heaters generally install in a similar manner and are not that difficult to seal. What's so different about these furnaces?

Dave Dulmage
David Hartley (Drdave)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 8:14 am:   

Water heaters have a sealed firewall surface that isolates the outside from the inside even with the cover open.

The thru-the-wall furnaces do not have that seal. If the cover is open or even warped you have a direct view to the inside of the heater and into the coach.

I wasn't trying to be negative. I just said what my experiences had shown. I like the idea of outside maintenance but the current models just don't give me that warm fuzzy and secure feeling.

Water intrusion makes me paranoid. I am now severely allergic to mold thanks to water intrusion around exterior appliances.

The other thing was that chopping a huge hole in a nice bus and ramming this ugly rectangular box in it detracts from the smooth lines.

But I guess that if you can live with a series of hatches, covers, holes and stuff surgically placed along the exterior of your coach then go for it. Iv'e done it and to a limited extent I still do it but I don't like it. But then again I guess if the budget is severely limited and well as space then you kind of do what you need to solve a problem.

:-)
David Dulmage (Daved)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 9:14 am:   

Thanks. Now I understand. Actually, I ended up making all my cuts through the bus in one of the bay doors. I didn't want to cut through the skin of the bus.

Dave Dulmage
(MC-8)
Jim Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 9:50 am:   

I was just going to suggest installing the furnace & water heater in a bay door too. That way, the door can be reskinned or replaced by you or later owners if the configuration changes. If the furnace is installed in the bay, that will solve the issue of the fan noise, too and it would be easy enough to keep the bay warm with either a water heater or a furnace. Small leaks wouldn't be a big deal, either, not like having them inside the coach getting the plywood floor wet.
John MC9

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 10:12 am:   

Ron-

That's an awful lot for an RV furnace. Even CampingWorld
has them cheaper. And there are CampingWorld stores all over
the states.

I bought a used 100% guaranteed 30k btu from a local RV
repair shop for $100. His price for a new one was less than
CampingWorld. I'd do some shopping around, If I were you.
Bob Vandawalker (Rav221)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 9:25 pm:   

I was going to get the 35,000 Atwood Model your looking at, it was recommended to me that the Suburban Model was a better unit. I purchased the Suburban, a little bit more money but only requires two small holes, one for exhaust and one for intake. This unit works like a charm, and is quiet.

Bob V
captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2005 - 9:45 pm:   

How much? John MCI9 wheres the cheaper ones at Camper World? they all were more expencive that I seen. I need more than a couple candles. unless I find one taken out of a wreck or a fairly new used one I'm gonna get a new one. My dad is sending me a propane ventless wall unit to get me by for the next few weeks I think it's a pretty good size one.
gabby

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Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2005 - 10:52 am:   

I have had a ventless blue flame propane heater in the last 2 coaches that I have had. They are great at least for the temps, (lowest 28 degrees) that we go to. I am not sure they would be good in real cold temps.
FAST FRED

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 5:26 am:   

The ventless units add LOADS of moisture to the air , which probably is condensing behind the walls.

Air supply (and CO2 ) poisoning can be a problem.

USE a good loud co2 alarm if you occupy the coach while running this.

FAST FRED
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 6:33 am:   

Better make that a CO (Carbon Monoxide) detector. Much more deadly than CO2 (Carbon Dioxide). I guess retirement doesn't end a firefighter's concern for safety. Jack
John MC9

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 7:45 am:   

As bad as the CO problem, is the fact it uses available Oxygen up
at a remarkably fast rate. The "ventless" units carry a warning tag,
instructing the user that plenty of ventilation is required for safe
operation. Unfortunately, they don't always tell you why..
(It's to stay alive)

Having to open windows to use a heater is.... well.. ya'know..

Small, mobile home type oil fired hot air systems are fairly
inexpensive, and they can run on diesel fuel. Hasn't anyone tried
these in a conversion yet?
captain ron (Captain_ron)

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 11:43 am:   

my bus has enough air leaks in it to equal 2 windows open. I do have a combination smoke and co alarm.
David Hartley (Drdave)

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 7:14 pm:   

An LP Gas detector might be a handy thing too.

O.T. Sorry, Just a reminder!

The one thing to remember is that if you use or used foam in a can the propellant is Butane gas and is very flammable. Do not ever have an open flame around if you are using the foam in the cans!

Kero heaters, In a confined 200 sq ft space is not recommended. Fumes will get to you and make you nautious. Did that once with a travel trailer!
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 8:52 pm:   

Those mobile home heaaters would work great for a very cold climate. They do work well.
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 9:47 pm:   

This might seem funny, but some of the reasons that the small trailer furnaces aren't used in RVs are that they are power hogs and too noisy.

They're 120 volt and the assumption was made on their manufacturer that there was an unlimited amount of power available because of being connected to shore power.

The noise on a brand new unit we installed in a 14X70 was way more than we liked and it would not be at all tolerable in an RV.

Another reason for not using them is that they don't come in small enough capacities, so the air heats up too quickly. This causes thermostat overshoot problems.

I would expect 50 amps of 12 volt power for the inverter to run one of these, and 80,000 BTU would be a pretty small unit.

George Lowry's 4106 only drew around 10 amps for the burner, circulator and three toe kick heaters, all running at the same time. No 120 volt required.

Some of the newer Toyo type circulating heaters might do quite well, however, but they do require 120 volt power.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska
John MC9

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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 10:33 pm:   

Hmm.. Too bad. It sounded sooo good while I was typing it, too!

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