| Author |
Message |
bruce knee (Bruceknee)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 4:01 pm: | |
What is the trick to removing the rear drums? are they outboard mount so the hubs do not have to come off?
I have backed the brakes off and removed the pain in the ass countersunk screws. I guess I'll try a biger hammer
Thanks, Bruce |
motorcoach1
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 5:15 pm: | |
i would belive it may depend on what side there on ,, left hand or right hand threads maybe ..hope this helps |
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 5:46 pm: | |
Bruce check yer email! |
Sammy (Sammy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 9:04 pm: | |
Yes, they are outboard mount. You'll need at least a 12 lb sledge hammer, eye protection, and ear protection. Rotate brake drum and hit the drum on outside surface at 4 equal distant places.
Hit drum, rotate 90 degrees, hit again, rotate 90 degrees, etc.
Make sure you have eye protection (safety glasses or goggles) and ear protection ( ear muffs).
Work safely. Good luck. |
Marc Bourget
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 10:57 pm: | |
bruce,
Keep this in mind, from http://www.prairietruckandtractor.com/repairtips.html
"When removing brake drums if you can't get them to pop by tapping on the rear band and you have to get rough with the drum plan on installing new drum, when you hammer on the drum it changes the drums balance, and can produce high spots on the inside which can also create heat and brake drag. " |
bruce knee (Bruceknee)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 7:16 am: | |
Thanks for the info guys, the bigger hammer worked. I guess I'll still have to take the hub off to replace the broken stud. Can't hold the hub from turning while wrenching on it. It will be just as easy pulling it off and using air. It will also let me look at the bearings while I'm in there. |
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:27 pm: | |
Bruce I agree with you on checking out the bearings while in there, however if ya just wanna change that stud I do it all the time with the hub still on (matter of fact I got an '86 TMC 102A3 here now that I'm fix'n to put longer studs on the drives and steers so we can put aluminum wheel on it.) I take the brake springs off and let the shoes hang down outta the way then I take my Ingersol Rand "Thunder Gun" 1/2' drive impact with a 1 5/16" socket and zap 'm out! Then I use it to pull the new ones in also! I did this in the past once using a wrench, with the brakes still in place by putting a bar run thru several studs to the floor, but it's much easier with the impact and you don't chance messing up the threads on the other (holding) studs this way. Another useless note is if you were having this done by a shop in Canada they are required by law to change the stud next to it on each side along with the bad 1, which is not a bad idea for safety sake. We haul passengers so if I change 1 I change all 10 which might be extreme but it's much better that multiple multi-million $ lawsuits, in our case! Good luck and if ya need any other advise feel free to call! 731-885-7460 Bryce aka Busted Knuckle |