| Author |
Message |
captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 7:40 pm: | |
I have a bunch of wires hanging every where with no idea where they go. some are the buzzer and stair light switch. some are indirect lights then I have little recepticals in the stainless base on drivers side that have voltage to them when marker lights are on. also where is the destination sign switch or is that tied in with markers? also how about changing destination sign?destination sign is removed.
I still don't know what the little black push button does located by the dimmer control for the dash lights and lights behind lettering on side dash. I have 24 volts at all of these and would like to decrease to 12 volt and put in some 12 volt lights I can control from drivers seat.I imagine some of the wires are 110 volts for the cleaning lights that you plug in outside the bus in front drivers side.
Do I need to keep the vent in the ramp floor section for any reason? I'm doing away with bus AC but using bus heat. |
Ed (Ednj)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 8:02 pm: | |
Ron
That vent in the ramp is the return air for the heat and a/c , if your keeping the bus heat you will have to keep a vent there. |
Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 8:43 pm: | |
Ron, I was told that the plug on the outside for the aisle lights is also the power source for the destination sign on my MC8. Havent traced the wires back to find out yet. |
JR
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 8:49 pm: | |
The outlets in the SS heater ducts are for isle lighting. Every couple of seats had a light fixture next to the isle and they plugged into the outlets you discribe.
Raise the ramp, use the front area for an intake. When the ramp is leveled, it'll leave a good sized step in the front....that will serve as the front air intake. Put a grill or stainless mesh wire over the opening.
The overhead wiring is for the parcel rack lighting, stop indicator/buzzer, marker lights, some had 110VAC wiring for cleanup when docked. You may find the fuel gage wiring running overhead, and as you already figured, the destination sign wiring is up there. The 110V wiring is unique in that it is covered with black, white, and green cotton wrapping. Most all other wires are automotive type black or white wiring. The numbers and color printed on wiring will ID most uses when compared to a schematic. All the parcel rack wiring can be removed, but be careful and keep the side marker light wiring. Only the side markers and maybe door air lock are in the bundle. You'll need to check what is up there by operating various switches and check for voltage. The unused and partially removed wires are a fire hazard. Most of the "over the driver" wiring may be removed.
The destination sign switch is probably gone. If switch is not on the LH switch panel, it was in the controller. Dest sign wiring can be removed. The destination signs may have had a "Luminator" computor controller...if that's missing, and the sign's gone...get rid of the destination sign window too. It'll leak and damage the front steel.
I'd forget mixing the existing 24V wiring with 12V circuits. Such mixing of systems will cause confusion or worse. If you want 12V lighting, add the wiring and circuits from the house battery to accomplish what you want. For just a few lights, you could use the rear 12V battery tap. There may be a 12V tap in the AC relay box, and may be 12V in the front junction box. Did the coach have a radio? May be old 12V wiring for that in the side or under the dash. You mentioned a "funny" flat antenna on the roof...some transits used an FM antenna that had a coax going up thru a solid condiut to the roof. Radio box in the upper LH fornt bay. Could be other places. The antenna was located about 5' from the drivers area on the LH roof.
The stainless heater ducts can be removed for a cleaner floor plan. Building around the heater ducts is painful. You will lose the bedroom bus heat if you remove the ducts (along both floor corners), but the cold air returns will pull some warm air to the rear. The returns are in the floor. Two large holes in the floor (beneath second front windows) in the front are the heat outlets.
Good Luck, JR |
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 8:51 pm: | |
Ron on most MCI's the destination signs are hooked up to the marker lights (at least all of 'em I've worked on are) as for the push button I'm pretty sure that is supposed to be hooked up to yer windshield washer fluid pump (now whether it's hooked up or works is another question! LOL) If memory serves me right the only place in there find 12 volts on is the headlights (I strongly disgourage hooking anything to them, unless you like being on the side of the road on a cold dark rainy night out there looking for a short or what ever caused yer headlights to go out! Or hopefully not but possibly having an accident before being able to get stopped! I won't even hook cb's to the headlight post), now some MCI's did have a post for cb's and the PA systems but not all! Only way to find out is use yer meter and test each post, also if any PA parts remain check for 12 volts there! Did the bus have a radio in it when you bought it? If so check to see where it's power comes from. If it's the headlights I advise relocating it! There are small voltage converts you can purchase comercially or use the resistor method decribed in the LED lighting thread! Bryce aka Busted Knuckle |
Doug Wotring
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 9:09 pm: | |
MC-8's have 24 volt headlights.
Washer Knob should be on the right hand of the dash with the wiper controls.
Only button on mine next to the dash dimming knob is the anti skid test button
There likely is a 12 volt source on the pannel. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 9:25 pm: | |
Ron -
Each wire should carry it's original metal tag, wrapped around
the wire. On it, is a number/letter combination. You can find the
number/letter combination in the manual, along with the
corresponding post at both the electronics panel at the driver's
side, and the rear electronics panel.
MC9 docs that have that information, are *here*.
The return air for the heat/AC is also snatched up at those
holes in the floor along the windows. They're inside the s/s
ducting, if you don't have it removed yet... You can raise
that ramp and use a vent at the front edge, or seal it.. Mine
is now sealed, and the hot air will warm the bus just fine..
It will, until (and if) I put a floor down and seal the remaining
returns.. A front return can help bring the hot air to the driver,
but a fan can do as well.
You can save yourself a ton of headaches with the wiring,
if you buy a standard telephone wiring test set at Home Depot,
Sears, or wherever... It's a simple battery operated tone
generator, and a battery operated induction receiver. You
connect one lead to ground, the other lead to the wire in
question, and use the probe to listen for the signal. It's the
same device we in the Tele Co used for years to trace individual
wires inside miles of cable. It works great for identifying where
the wire goes, and what it's connected to.
Have fun. |
Bryce Gaston (Busted_knuckle)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 10:01 pm: | |
8's had 24 volt head lights? See learn something new every day! I've only worked on a few but never knew about them having 24V headlights! I even put a headlight off the shelf in one of my regular customers units once, and never heard anything about it! I guess when it burned out they just replaced it on the road somewhere! Busted Knuckle |
captain ron (Captain_ron)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 10:28 pm: | |
I have always been told there are no such thing as 24 volt head lights. (from this board)
I had planned on the vent in the front where I will raise the ramp flush with floor.
I only want to put a couple lights in on the 24 volt switches for when I need to pull over and go to bath room or look back to check something. and be able to control from drivers seat. and not have to rewire any thing. |
David (Davidinwilmnc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 11:17 pm: | |
Doug, MCI released an update to headlight wiring (so I'm told) running 12 volt headlights in series on 24 volts. There's a diode and the 12 volt tap to keep 'em running if one burns out. I'm surprised more don't know what voltage their headlights use. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2006 - 11:50 pm: | |
Ron -
There are a few wires that run inside, from the front to the
back. The bathroom driver alert buzzer is one.. I believe
it'd be stud 21 and wire number 28 (br/yl) at the front panel.
It would appear at the bathroom ceiling (wall) pushbutton.
Any wire like that, that's unused, can be re-used for a light.. |