| Author | Message | ||
| captain ron (Captain_ron)
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I'm ready to do some plumbing. for now just the shower and toilet. What is the best to use for plumbing? pvcp, pex, copper or ??? I have spin weld fittings for my fresh water tank but don't know how to install them. I have been told of a fitting that you just drill a hole and push in fitting, any info? also same for my fill and vent tube in fresh tank. | ||
| James Smith (Tomcat)
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I used Sharkbite push on fittings from www.cashacme.com You can plug Pex, copper and CPVC into the same fittings, and reuse them if you need to. I'm under the impression that spin in fittings require a router at 20,000rpm, as well as one with some guts, to properly bond fitting and tank. Jay | ||
| Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat)
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USE PEX You will find it to be super easy, impervious to freezing or hot water, overall the best. I've done a few busses now and would never again use anything but pex... | ||
| Sojourner (Jjimage)
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If you near; Dura-Cast Products Inc. 16160 Hwy 27 Lake Wales, FL 33859 They can spin weld fitting for you. Toll Free: (800) 683-4116 http://www.duracast.com/content/interior.asp?section=tanks&body=main.htm FWIW Sojourn for Christ, Jerry | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
Water tends to sit for long periods of time in a camper , and if the smallest amount of light gets to the water MONTIZUMA !(or worse) greets ya. Tank , hose whatever the source light grows "stuff" as the chlorine evaporates eventually. I prefer to completly box the plastic tank liners in plywood and then run all copper tubing. Go oversized to at least 1/2 in ID and 5/8 is even better. You get a great flow at minilal pump pressure , and kill the house batts slower. The finest job is tubing with flair ends , as any piece can easily be replaced anywhere. No fires , no looking for last years favorite Quickie tubing , long outdated from lawsuits.. Works for me, FAST FRED | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
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Hi Ron. Use what you like to work with. I roughed in my present trial system using good old fashioned copper and solder because I like working with it, and I had lots of bits and pieces lying around. I also enjoyed the open space of an empty bay to work in for this trial. In the future, heed the warning: FF is right about fires....! happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| R.C.Bishop
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FF.....I did copper thru out the coach and I agree with you....flair is better than soldered joints ( all of mine are soldered). When I have occasion to fix yet another joint, ( and it will probably happen) I am going to make the transition. So far, out of many, I have had to re-do only two joints in nearly 5 years.... one twice. My guess is, even though tested for 24 hours under pressure, the constant vibration at the two locations caused the problem. And, of course, both were in "inconvenient" locations at the start and after construction. I also intend to install a "winter diversion" at the water heater to cut down on the amount of antifreeze that must run thru the system. We have it down to about 10 total minutes to drain, blow out with air to evacuate all H2O and add antifreeze to the entire system....pretty good considering the number of 1/2 and 3/4 water lines we have. About that long or less to "get back to water" in the system. I no longer attempt to salvage the antifreeze in the system, as I have previously done. FWIW  RCB | ||
| david anderson (Davidanderson)
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I used CPVC. The fittings are about .20 cents each. It's easy to cut and glue. If it breaks, it's available everywhere. No fires to sweat. No expensive fittings. In 4 years and 30k miles I haven't had a leak yet. I recommend a loop valve on your shower to purge the cold water out of your hot water line to avoid the waste of waiting for the shower to get hot. I wish I would have installed one. David | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
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David, I'm glad to hear that as I am planning to use CPVC. Have used it in my house and garage with great results. Easy permanent connections and the lines remain flexible. I am going to have the both sinks and the shower fairly close to the HWH, but what is a "loop valve" and how does it work? Thanks. | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
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Chuck, the loop valve provides for flow from the hot water inlet of your shower or sink valve to the fresh tank. When you need hot water from either of those fixtures, instead of wasting any cold water coming out of the hot water faucet, you turn on this valve for a moment. Once the loop is hot, you shut off that valve and turn on your shower or sink valve. The water is hot as soon as you turn it on. It may not seem like much, but it saves as much water as a couple of toilet flushes take each time you need hot water and the lines are cold. As spring loaded valve is probably best. Whatever works for you. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska | ||
| Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
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Thanks Tom, Is the valve commercially made? Will it require it's own hole in the top of the vanity? Do any fixtures come with a loop valve integrated within? Thank again. | ||
| FAST FRED Rating: N/A |
"Is the valve commercially made?" If you get a std house tub / shower diverter valve simply hook the TUB fittings to be the HW return. OTS and nice looking and cheap! FAST FRED | ||
| Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
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Chuck, almost any kind of valve might be used, but I think that Fast Fred has quite an idea. I doubt that there is enough demand for a commercially available product, but you never know. If you don't like Fast Fred's idea, you could look for a water fountain pushbutton valve. Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576 Suncatcher Ketchikan, Alaska | ||
| Dale Fleener (Dale_mc8)
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Just to add to the copper pipe flare vs solder question; if copper freezes up, it will expand if it doesn't split. This will make it difficult, if not impossible, to use standard size fittings. You might be able to 'impact shrink' the pipe enough to use soldered joint, maybe not. Just sumpin to think about. Dale |
