| Author |
Message |
pipes
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 3:11 pm: | |
I would like info on what is the best way and materiel to fabricate the framework for about 4-6 inch drop ciellng (05 Eagle). Also fore n aft or athwartships (or both? )
I can USUALLY figure things out for meself but this one has me stumped.....
Thanks in advance.........Ken Tutrner |
Tim Jones (Torquester)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 5:11 pm: | |
My way:
http://members6.clubphoto.com/tim393476/133243/guest.phtml
1" square tubing. I don't remember what gage. Eagle 05, 10" raise.
hth, Tq |
Rob King
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 5:57 pm: | |
Hi Pipes
While I haven't done mine yet in my Prevost, I looked at Tims' and I plan to do something very similiar. I am using 1.5" X 1.5" angle iron that has braces welded to it that are then welded to the center roof support beams and the side window headers, these will also be riveted just for extra safety. I will then take 1/4" plywood with installed "christmas tree" fasteners to attach the ceiling to the tubing after covering it with 1/4" foam and vinyl. The christmas tree fasteners are the plastic fasteners that hold door panels on the inside of car doors and stick into the holes in the metal door frame. I will of course have to drill holes through the plywood and into the angle iron.
Hope this helps
Rob
91 LeMirage XL
Missouri |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 12:39 am: | |
Hey Pipes,
I gave up on my airbag installation on my Eagle. See "Brake air line question" further down the board.
To your question. I needed a 4" drop on my ceiling in my eagle from the center longeron. Measure the distance from the center longeron to the floor less the 4". Say it is 78" just as an example. Now measure 78" from the floor where it intersects the curve of the rib. (This must be a 90 degree angle from the floor.) Mark the rib. Now do the same on the other side of the coach. Pull a string and you have a flat ceiling parallel to the floor.
On mine, I clamped a board as a straight edge at that mark across the coach. I then slid a 1"x1" angle on top of the straight edge and at the point it intersected the rib, I welded it to the rib at that intersection the full length of the coach, on both sides of course. This was my ceiling edge that gave me a flat surface to screw the panels to.
On the three remaining longerons, I welded 1"x1" angle straight up and down on two foot centers from front to back of the coach. The length of the pieces are determined by a string pulled between the previously welded angles on the curved ribs that were welded to the sides. The angles were just above the string, not touching it.
Now, I have about 19 or so little angle irons on each of the 3 longerons. With my string still in place I weld a 1"x1" angle iron to each of those angles running the full length of the coach. This will give you 5 attach points across the coach running front to rear.
I then welded 1 1/2" flat steel on 1 foot centers to the 5 angles. You now have a nice ceiling grid to attach 1/4" plywood as a substrate.
Please note. I only had the two side angles and all the up/down angles welded in BEFORE insulating the coach. After insulating I welded the other three angles and the flats in. I started a few fires in the process, so be careful.
If you're already insulated you'll have to srew it all up.
I used glued marine vinyl on the plywood substrate, screwed it up and covered the screws with those decorative caps and have had no problems in the 4 years its been up.
All my airconditioning ductwork is above this flat ceiling.
David Anderson
1985 Houston Metro Eagle 10 |
Ken Turner (Pipesusmc)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 3:58 pm: | |
LOOK at what I found
http://www.ceilinglink.com/comments.htm
I dont have time now to reply to your good info ...........But I added this link for your thoughts.........Be back later...Thanks guys..Ken |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 9:35 pm: | |
Ken, this looks like a pretty good setup and inexpensive enough. I think that the only reservation I might have for your application is that soft tiles might pop out of the tracks if conditions were just right.
This shouldn't be a problem with solid acoustical tiles, as far as I can see. The vinyl faced spun fiberglass tiles are pretty flimsy, by comparison.
Do you think a high impact accident might send the solid tiles flying? I think you should call the company and ask them what they think about using their product in an RV. They might have a strong recommendation one way or the other.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Ketchikan, Alaska |