| Author |
Message |
Sean Mormelo (Sventvkg)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 12:16 am: | |
Hello all. Heading to Alaska for 6 months and will have to store the bus as we can't take it. I don't know if there is anything special that I need to do to it and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts. Basically I was going to Shut the main breaker off, seal it up, tarp it over, and leave it. It's sat for 4-6 months before but I usually started it up every 2-3 weeks. There will be no electriciy where it's being stored so I can't keep a charger on the batteries. If anyone has anthing to ad I would be greatful. Take care. |
g
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 12:37 am: | |
You may want to get a solar battery charger and and leave it it a window? I would also look to someone you trust to come by and start the bus once or twice a month. Even better if you really trust them, have them run it down the road after a good check. Batteries, tires...seals...oil all will work better if you get someone to use the bus while away. |
John MC9
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 12:43 am: | |
We had buses sit in the barnyard longer than that. If it's not
freezing temperatures, not to worry. The battery (if an 8D),
will probably go dead, as they all manage to do. Buy some
Group 31s when you get back, and consider the less than $200
as part of your trip expenses.
Life's too short to worry 'bout the small stuff, man! |
FAST FRED
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 6:37 am: | |
DD publishes a complete storage guide in Da Book for storage over 30 days.
Just starting it causes far more harm than just sitting , as the coach engine ONLY gets warm enough to drive out condensation & blowby contaminates when warm.
A short procedure that I use on out 6-71 for winter storage is to open each airbox cover & spray in fogging oil past the ports , and crank one or two turns.Then close.
Then seal as airtight as you can (duct tape) the intake and exhaust.
Batts should be left on a charger, smart or regulated solar.
Dead batts can freeze at lower temps, to their distruction.
Leave the tires resting on a hunk of plywood , not the ground.
FAST FRED |
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 8:32 am: | |
Disconnect the battery and then charge it up to float level. Unless the battery is bad, It will still have close to a full charge when you get back. If it does not have a charge when you get back then you know you need to replace it. A good battery will not go dead in six months.
Richard |
Donald Lee Schwanke (Dontx)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 12:18 pm: | |
The last time I checked, a good diesel shop will do the DD by the book storage and return to service drill for just a tad over $5000.00! Most of us find some cheap way to avoid doing it the "right way", and usually have fine success with the low cost alternatives. |
JR
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 9:10 pm: | |
I agree with the "low-cost" alternatives. Just pull the batteries, put them on a timer to charge occasionally, and forget it. As long as it was used before parking, has antifreeze, shouldn't be any problems at all.
I doubt I'd be starting it just to hear it run. That doesn't really help. Just washes down the cylinders and screws up the oil.
6 months to a diesel is nothing.
If the coach has sit for a couple years, the brakes and moving parts should be checked and lubed. Only thing you need to check on is to verify evil doers haven't moved into your coach. OR removed your possesions.
Good luck, JR |
Sean Mormelo (Sventvkg)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 1:28 am: | |
Thanks for the valuable information in your replies. I really appreciate it guys! |