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Kevin Wood

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 5:01 pm:   

I have just removed the side mouldings on my MC9 in preparation of removing windows and installation of 18 guage sheetmetal. I see that under the mouldings there are rows of rivets. What do others do about these rivets? Install the siding over the rivets, only go up to the rivets, remove the rivets and window frames? Please advise as this was unforeseen.

Thanks,
Kevin
motorcoach1

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 6:53 pm:   

Good Qustion Ken : i always wonderd myself about that. i removed all the rivets and use a hole locator so as to replace the rivets in the same hole ( made the jig myself) but grumpydog can tell you where you can purchace one and i'm sure there are others that have used one. The bottom pin locates the hole and the top is a drill guide so as your always accurate, very handy tool.
John MC9

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 7:56 pm:   

I had been informed that the window frames were part of the
overall structure, and not to take them out. So.... I used
sheet aluminum to the tops of the rivets on mine.

In hindsight (if I ever had to do it again), I'd remove that bottom
row of rivets and fit the sheet aluminum to the edge of the existing
panel, then re-rivet using the same holes. It would make for a much
more pleasing look, instead of the double row of rivets that I now
must live with. Although after painting, they're not as noticeable
to others, as much as they are to me.

I used 1/4" dia Bulb-tite blind rivets. After grinding off the stub,
they look like the original rivets.

I made a jig out of a piece of thin aluminum, by drilling two
holes at the bottom edge that fit over two existing rivet heads
in a row. Using a small drill bit, another hole was placed where
I wanted to center punch a mark for the new rivet (above and
between the existing rivets). It made the task of running a
centered row of rivets much easier than trying to do one at
a time.

I suggest using self tapping sheet metal screws to secure the
panel during the fitting process, and the initial stages of drilling,
and riveting. If you're working alone as I am, it'll give you the
advantage of being able to hold the panel in place with one
hand, and secure it with a drill and screw bit, with the other hand.

The rivets that run up/down at the sides of the windows, I left
as-is and overlapped the aluminum panel over the rivets. Not
noticeable at all.

Make sure you have plenty of butyl on hand to seal it all.

May the force be with you.
jlvickers

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 9:08 pm:   

I think what the tool that you make mention of is called a Strap Duplicator.
Aircraft Tool Supply Company sell them.
WWW.aircraft-tool.com
1-800-248-0638
This company has sheet metal tools for the aviation industry.
Neat little items for us bus folks also.
jlvickers

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Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 9:17 pm:   

This is the web page for the strap duplicators

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/pdf/catalogs/ECat2005.pdf
Pat Bartlett (Muddog16)

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Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 6:28 am:   

I bought several of these strap duplicators, Gumpy mentioned using them. So far they seem to do a very nice job. The following link carrys them also, http://www.yardstore.com.

Pat
Bob Compton (Allboyzoo)

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Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 1:21 am:   

John, what length 1/4" bulb type rivet did you use? I'd like to remove and repalce the existing bottom row of rivets as you said you wished you had. Thanks.

Bob
ChuckMC9 (Chucks)

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Posted on Friday, February 24, 2006 - 1:31 pm:   

Hey you're coming along nicely, JtNG.
Thanks for the updated pics.
Kevin Wood

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Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 10:25 pm:   

Thanks for the info. After looking at many pics I have decided to just install the panels inside of the existing rivets. Beyond that is more work than I plan on. I am covering the rivets with the existing gutter and mouldings anyway so I should be in good. Shape.

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